It was a challenge but i was able to do it! once i duracoat the gun next week you shouldn't even be able to tell what i did

Attached Images

IMG_2573.jpg (73.3 KB, 1914 views)

you don't need to grind gun up just use propane torch and make bad lever come straight from paddle down to bend that goes across to finger

did you try that?

There is a how to on here on how to bend the BAD lever to work, no lower receiver modifications needed.

yes I did that to mine takes very little heat to bend not much bend either works great I'll try and get photo later

well damn, I was afraid of weakening the aluminum so I filed the receiver. oh well it looks good and I've got even more room for my trigger finger. I guess its just another way to get the job done

i put mine on a couple days ago and went to the range and it wouldn't hold open after the last shot anymore ***?

These gimmicks tend to get removed very quickly after folks get thru a good three-day basic tactical carbine course. Sometimes removed before the first day is over!

Keep it simple.

-- Chuck

Yup, the BAD lever is very gimmicky. It would be nice to have the bolt lock back functionality for clearing malfunctions, but everything else about the thing makes it, not just worthless, but detrimental to carbine operation.

The cause of the bolt not staying open with the MAD installed on your 15-22 is the MAD ARM is rubbing on the front of the trigger area of the lower receiver; this little bit of friction is not allowing the bolt catch to full pivot to allow the bolt to remain open after the last round is fired. All you need to do is straighten the flat part of the BAD arm a little more.

OBTW - Adding wood jaw (maple or poplar or any closed grain hardwood will do in a pinch) plates to a vise will prevent marring the finish on the bad. If your vise does not have removal jaw plates, the attach the wood jaws with double sided tape (carpet tape does a good job and isn't expensive).

You need to bend the arm about 1/8 -3/16" to fit inside of the lower receiver area. Mount the BAD in the vise a use a non-metal hammer... rawhide mallet, dead blow, plastic faced ball pen, etc. Lightly and slowly hammer the arm and then check to see if the BAD fits inside the trigger area. If it rubs then remount it in the vise and give it a few more whacks. When you think you have straightened the arm enough, then attach it to the bolt release lever tab, and insert a EMPTY MAGAZINE, and pull the charging handle, the bolt should stay open. If the bolt closes, you will need to bend the BAD arm a little more to ensure you have enough play for the bolt catch.

I've got BADs on both my 15-22 and my AR-15 carbine. I've used both rifles in tactical courses... no problems. I know cops (LEO and Fed) and snake eater (spec ops types - CCTs, Delta, and SEALs) who do use the BAD too.

A lot of stuff can seem gimmicky, but that doesn't mean it is gimmicky. Over the years I've seen a lot of stuff attached or stuck on ARs by both mil and civ operators....Putty and pink bubble gum! in the space between the trigger guard, lights attached with hose clamps to the barrels. All of it may seem gimmicky to someone, but the operators were happy with the "modifications". I would gladly have any of those guys on my side in a fire fight, anywhere, anytime. I could make a list of things that I would call gimmicky too, but what the hick. If it works; cool, no skin off my butt. So I guess using condom over a barrel to keep rain, mud, or **** out of the barrel is gimmicky too. t works and has kept **** out of barrels on combat rifles (M16s and CARs), my hunting rifles, and even my .54 caliber black powder Hawkins for elk hunting for over 35 years. One size fits all!

Aim small,

tat

I spent about an hour fitting one to mine and when I pull the charging handle with an empty mag it locks back but when shooting it doesn't any ideas?

There is no reason to hack on the rec. I installed mine without any mods to the rifle.

Attached Images

29875d1288726761-magpul-b-d-img-20101102-00104.jpg (30.5 KB, 1101 views)

I finished my work on the gun and after the duracoat the trigger guard looks great, has more room for gloved fingers...and anyone who goes through tactical training shoots with gloves on. the BAD lever offers a tactical advantage by allowing you to keep the weapon on target while cycling a magazine change or clearing a double feed. there is no need to remove your strong hand from the pistol grip while operating the weapon...and that is the idea! When the BAD is properly installed it will not cause any malfunctions, only help clear them.

To everyone having problems with the bolt closing after you release the mag... you need to bend more. Every time you press your mag release button its hitting the bad lever right below the bolt release. I had the same problem until I realized this was happening.

Now it works flawlessly and I can't imagine life without it.

Ditto on MattO's comment... the BAD needs a little more bending away from the left side of the lower receiver to ensure the magazine release catch does not trip the BAD/bolt release button. When you get the right "cant" of the vertical part of the BAD, then bend the Horizontal extension up ( the end you trip/lock with your right index finger) back to a horizontal position.

Aim small,

tat

Alrighty, not to beat a dead horse, and I am new here and all (but am aware that I am necroposting) but this thread seems to get referenced a lot around the forums so I just wanted to add to it. Does anyone have a picture of the bad lever before and after the bending job? I've read through all the post and can't follow all the bends as I am more of a visual learner. I'm pretty sure this would help other members trying to do this mod too so hopefully I am not infringing any forum rules. Thank you!

There is a thread I have a link to on my computer that has photos I'm pretty sure - if I have it I'll post it up tomorrow.

Thank you! Much appreciated!

OR you could just get the SBR (which is made for the 15-22) and forego the bending.

NDZ Performance S&W M&P 15-22 SBR Speed Bolt Release

__________________
M&P40c/15-22/SD9VE/Mossy500

I bent mine, then repainted it.

Would rather bend a $20 part then cut up and repaint my lower.

Thanks, I saw this on another thread but after shipping the part's around $35. I just happened to get a good deal on the BAD so I jumped on it. It was one of those things that you looked up AFTER you bought something else lol.

Sorry.. I no have it anymore

My plan was to originally bend a spare BAD I had, but then I got the NDZ for xmas as a gift so I put the BAD on another new AR. Though I was totally up for the task of bending the BAD after all I had seen and read, no reason to when I got the NDZ. In retrospect, I know the NDZ is not cheap and you can get a BAD for nearly half the price, but having both now I would just go for the NDZ because it is M&P proper and more so, because it is a fraction of the weight.