edit: Ok, so now I have fashioned the proper sized "wrench" necessary to remove the barrel, and it fits very well into the grooves on the barrel nut, but I am having no luck. I am assuming these are a standard right hand threading, but try as I might I can't get this thing to move. Any suggestion?

I have drilled a hole in the "wrench" to put bar through for torque, yet nothing moves it.

First post on the 15-22, just picked it up this week.
I'm looking to do a complete dissasembly, inspection and cleaning, and have run into a snafu. Stumbled on youtube video of making homemade barrel "wrench" out of 7/8'' pvc tube, looked to work like a charm for the poster and only runs me a $1.25. So I make the wrench, remove the flash hider and handguard cap then proceed to slide the pvc tube down the handguards, only to have it stop 2/3 of the way down.
Appears that the handguards ID tapers toward the bottom?
Is this assesment correct, or am I missing something?

Thanks folks.

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Regards,
Brian.

You may have used too small a piece of PVC.
The barrel tapers about there and I'll bet you ran into that and not the handguard as it is the same size inside all the way to the nut.
A better idea is to get one of the two wrenches Shooboy makes and a set of the vise jaws made by Tacticool.
You can find both of them listed in the classified section at the top of the this page.
They will allow you to take the barrel nut off much easier and with little or no chance of damaging the receiver or handguard.

I agree with Citoriplus, you likely got snagged on the barrel where it's profile tapers. And I also agree that you should get a ready made barrel wrench and set of barrel vice jaws. Both Randy (Shooboy) and Jody (Tacticool22) both have great offerings for our rifles, professionally made in the U.S of A. with pride! And that way you don't screw your rifle up, like I did....

Thanks for the tips so far guys, unfortunatly I'm not runnung into the barrel taper yet. I can clearly see at least 3/16'' worth all around the barrel with the pvc tube slid down as far as it will go until it gets stuck.

Definatly rubbing the inside edge of the handguards. I just can't figure why the ID of the handguards would be less at the bottom. I am aware of the barrel wrenches the members here have developed and they look very nice to be sure, I was just hoping to get away with the quick tool as it seemed to work very well for the purpose. I may have to bust out the checkbook though.

Brett, if it's not too painful to talk about, how did you screw up your rifle?

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Regards,
Brian.

If you are using the proper size PVC then read post#2 in the link below... see the pics and explanation.

The threads on the barrel are just slightly larger than the ID of the PVC.. so close you can just about thread the PVC onto the barrel. Take a little off the inside of the PVC fingers with a dremmel and you will be good to go.. or buy a wrench from the Classifieds at the top of the Forum page.

"DIY" 15-22 Barrel Nut Wrench

Phil thanks for the links, and for taking the time to try and help. But my problem is not the ID size of the tube, my problem lays in the OD of the tube rubbing the inside of the handguards a good 3'' before I even get to the barrel threads.

I can see no explanation other than my handguard tapers toward the bottom, as the "mouth" or opening of the handguard is more than enough to accept the OD of the tube

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Regards,
Brian.

I bought a wrench and it has no problems, I don't recall any taper on the shroud.

Are you using 3/4'' PVC SCH 40? My guess is the answer is no. The steel ShooWrench that works on all these rifles has the same OD as the PVC.

You have the 15-22 rifle, not the pistol, right?

The hand guard is tapered inside because it would not come off the core of the mold if it was straight. All plastic shrinks when it is cooled, so there has to be taper for the part to release from the mold.
I took into consideration of all the details when I built the first generation barrel wrench end. It's simple, smaller, lower cost, cheaper to ship and all steel. The gen 2 wrench is the full length one with wrench flats and the urethane bushing.

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Buy cheap, pay twice.

Great news, I'm not crazy. Bad news, I have been using pvc of the youtube recomended size of 7/8'' ID not 3/4''.
I figured I was safe using the type and size he described in the video as it seemed to work like a charm for him, turns out he must of meant 1'' OD which should be 3/4'' ID. Thanks for all the help everyone.

__________________
Regards,
Brian.

Irrelevant. The pistols handguard is literally a rifle one cut shorter, and they use the same barrel nut and upper receiver part #

I thought the pistol handgaurd was different than the rifle.

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dodgeds

So is it just the length of the handguard that prohibits the install of the endcap?

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dodgeds

No, the detail in the end of the factory hand guard is gone, cut off, plain ol' not there.
You could probably modify the pistol hand guard to fit the factory end cap.
Bore it out to 1.56 x .20 deep. Then you have to cut some grooves for the fingers of the cap to slide down into the side holes.
The distance from the front of the hand guard to the front of the thru holes is .325 to .335.
Good luck.
You could always put a Yankee Hill mini forearm on. YHM, Yankee Hill Machine Co., Inc. – Makers of High Quality Firearms, Accessories & Sound Suppressors | Forearms They even have screw in end caps.

__________________
Buy cheap, pay twice.

Yes, it seriously looks like a worker simply ran a bunch through a band saw.

more help?

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Regards,
Brian.

Have you bought a real wrench to use?
If you’re facing the muzzle, turn the wrench counter clockwise.
If you’re holding the pistol with the muzzle away from you, turn the wrench clockwise.
How are you holding the pistol?
How are you holding the wrench?
Pics would be helpful.

__________________
Buy cheap, pay twice.

YouTube - Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22 Instructional Video Series: Barrel Removal (Part1)

YouTube - Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22 Instructional Video Series: Barrel Removal (Part2)

There ya go... all the more help than you could need.

Wow, 19 ft lbs? Something is'nt right then, I cannot get this thing to budge. I did buy the rifle preowned so hopefully the previous owner has not removed and then re-tightened the barrel with too much torque. I will place a call to him and ask.

Anyone else ever had a barrel that would not move without some type of assistance? Obviously I cannot apply heat, what else might ease the nut loose?

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Regards,
Brian.

Maybe they put some thread lock on the threads. I've heard that can really make for a headache.
Have you tried smacking the thing that turns the wrench with a hammer? Sometimes a shock works better than brute force.
Vise jaws and a short steel wrench would probably be the ticket.

__________________
Buy cheap, pay twice.

Did you read the links about the PVC wrench I posted earlier? Did you trim off a little on the inside of the PVC fingers?

(unless someone used loctite or something on it)... The next step would be to buy a metal wrench from the Classifieds. Put a wrench on it, the give it a couple sharp whacks until it cracks loose.

Just got off the phone with the previous owner, says he had never removed the barrel. I will try the "shock method" tonight thanks, after that it may be call to S&W.

__________________
Regards,
Brian.

Yes I did read the links, and thank you for that. In fact I had the wrong ID size PVC. Now I have fashioned a new one and the fingers engage perfectly but the nut will not break free. I'll slap her around a little when I get home.

__________________
Regards,
Brian.

Don't to that.... just tell your wife that you're having difficulty and politely ask her to try. That's how I got the last pickle jar opened.

Just be aware that if you smack it and it still doesn't budge, it may spin the barrel in the upper receiver and that's a BAD thing.. That's why Tacticool22.com makes those really nice vice jaw inserts for the barrel.

After watching Brett248vista video I ordered a barrel wrench. I had to give my nut a quick jerk to loosen with a 1 1/16 wrench on the wrench I bought. The wrench comes with nylon inserts to keep wrench centered plus keeps it off the barrel, I like my wrench.

That wrench is a great wrench, that's why I carry it too. The urethane (engineered rubber) inserts don't do any good on the pistol.
On the rifle, hold the barrel so you don't turn the keys in the keyway and ruin the upper. By holding the barrel all the torque is put into the steel barrel, nut and wrench. The upper is not affected.

__________________
Buy cheap, pay twice.

Tacticool22 has some barrel vise jaws that are awesome. They will hold the barrel without harming the receiver.

For those of you making your own wrench, you can use an oring or two to do the same as the rubber bushing.

Can someone post the demensions of the teeth I need to cut onto the pipe? Lenth and width please. I just happen to have some extra 3/4" PVC lying around.

From my experience just doing this to my rifle:
The barrel nut on mine was INCREDIBLY tight
I ended up making a barrel vice out of a block of aluminum and a barrel wrench out of a piece of 3/4 inch pipe (metal not pvc in my case).
With the barrel vice tightened down as far as it would go (within reason) nearly touching the end of the wrench (to make sure it wouldn't get out of the grooves) it still took a longer wrench and quite a bit of force to finally break it free.

Can you give me the measurements of the teeth off your tube wrench?

Yea I'll be home in an hour and a half. I'll give you images and measurements then.

The width of each tooth is just under 2 tenths of an inch. Try not to make them too long as this will weaken them when you try to turn it.

My wrench only uses 2 prongs since getting all 4 to line up was taking way too long.

Also I flattened 2 sides on the opposite end to make it easier for a wrench to grab onto.

edit: I forgot I also used a dremel to hollow out the inside of the "toothed" side a little bit so it would fit over the threads. (You can use a file as well it just may take a little longer).

Thank you both.