Effects of Removing Forend Cap

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paulj2

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I am curious of the long term effect of removing the forend cap from the handguard. In another thread, concerns were mentioned about the possible stresses on the poly receiver.

I can understand the concern, but also think of the after market barrel nut that allows an AR-15 handguard with no barrel support.

I am asking for comments from those that have removed the end cap alone or installed the after market barrel nut and AR handguard. Have you experienced any problems, particularly concerning flex or damage to the receiver?

Thanks for the input.
 
Mine was removed many thousands of rounds ago. I haven't noticed any changes in my POA/POI with my 4x scope ever since removing, along with no observable issues regarding barrel/receiver. I even have a barrel shroud on mine, which there is no contact with the rail/handguard and adds just a little more weight on the forend. I also use a GripPod, mainly as a handy bipod at my local range, so have been adding pressure to that area of the rail with no adverse effects.

M&P15-22_SIG522.jpg
 
There is a stainless steel bushing molded into the upper that is pinched between the breech block and the barrel nut.
There is no mechanical difference to the 15-22 between the factory barrel nut and the aftermarket adapter for the AR/M4 free floating hand guards.
 
Because there was some talk that not letting the forend cap contact the barrel was good; I took the cap off and opened up the opening for the barrel with my Dremel until iti no longer contacts the barrel no matter which way I push on the forend. The thought was that that procedure was the equivalent of "free floating" the barrel, so the pressure on the barrel (in this case none) was the same whether you used a bipod, sandbag, whatever. Short answer: Gun shoots great without forend cap touching barrel.
 
My forend cap has been off the 15-22 after about the second range run.
I saw no difference at all with it on or with it off. I have the RRages Navy Seals fake suppressor on the rifle at present again, without the forend cap.

Have found that the ammo you use will indeed have an accuracy effect. To date for me the most accurate is the Aguilla Match Target 40g lead. At 50 yards with a 19X scope, I can put 10 rounds into a consistent nickle sized hole. Second best ammo was the Fiocci Match 340 also a lead 40g bullet with similar results. The copper plated bullets are perhaps the least accurate at 50Y in my particular 15-22.
 
tacticool22 said:
There is a stainless steel bushing molded into the upper that is pinched between the breech block and the barrel nut.
There is no mechanical difference to the 15-22 between the factory barrel nut and the aftermarket adapter for the AR/M4 free floating hand guards.
Click to expand...

I was hoping you would answer this question. Not trying to belabor the point, just trying to be clear, I take from your response, you have seen no problems with the receiver or the rifle in general by either removing the end cap or using your barrel nut adapter and free float AR handguards?

I appreciate all the responses, just want to be sure removing the end cap won't somehow "injure" the polymer receiver or barrel connection.
 
I removed the fore end cap and just returned from a short test session. For my shooting position, I was prone in the cheat grass, my back pack for the front rest and my off hand fist for the rear stock rest, using Armscor 36 gr hp.

I fired several groups to center the scope at 50 yards. Shots 41-50 made a ragged 3/4" hole, only because 1 round expanded the group from 1/2". This is better by far than I shot with the end cap in place using the same ammo off a bench with bags.

My conclusion, for my rifle, it shoots best with end cap removed. This may not be the case for others, but for me, the end cap has been officially retired.
 
I made some clearance between barrel and cap.....about 1mm. So barrel is free, but cap will support barrel, if some accident happens....drop or something.
 
I took my 15-22 out this morning to re-zero a different optic on it. After I got it zeroed, I took the cap out of the forend to see if it made any difference. I was shooting at 50 yards and the Federal 36 gr bulk pak 22 shot their usual mediocre group with the cap in the forend. Shooting with the cap out , the Federals were definitely shooting tighter groups. So I grabbed some other flavors of ammo and shot. all seemed to shoot better than I remember. The gun is just a tin can killer and general plinker, but I still like to have a gun shoot as accurately as it can; I'll be shooting the 15-22 without the cap.:cool:
 
I didn't believe it, but removing the end cap actually seems to improve accuracy! At the range the past weekend, I had a weird shifting point of impact while shooting off a bag (impact up to a couple of inches higher than point of aim depending where the rifle was resting on bag). I ditched the end cap, and got much, much better groups. Thanks for the advice!
 
Last edited:
i have had my 15-22 for about a week now and so far I am curious about this end-cap debate--the dealer who sold me the rifle mentioned a few of his customers reporting the same things i am reading here--no doubt that there is something to it--

barrel whip? i know from varmint slaying in Western Nebraska with distance modified AR-15s and .308 bolts that this is the primary reason for muzzle-brakes and free floating barrels--

or is it a design flaw causing too much pressure at a specific point on the barrel length itself? Any ideas or theories?>
 
How about the people that bought one of belt feds shrouds? I know the cap has to be removed to install the shroud, is the accuracy affected by the weight of the shroud? I would think that the extra weight would effect the barrel somehow. I want to order one but not if its gonna effect the accuracy of the rifle.
 
I have seen no difference with my original heavy shrouds or the new lightweight ones.
Point of impact changed on some rifles, but accuracy generally increased.
 
it's just like any other rifle. adding weight to the front of the weapon is going to change the POI, though on a .22lr it should be a much smaller adjustment. went though this a few years ago with some friends that had gotten into shooting mosin nagants. they were all jacked up talking about barrel harmonics and some other nonsense when shooting with bayonets on and bayonets off. they were utterly convinced it was something way more scientific that is actually was. weight on the rifle will change POI plan and simple...that being said the shrouds i got from tacticool22 are extremely lightweight and recoil on a .22lr is next to non-existent so i don't imagine too much adjustment to the sights will be necessary.
 
BXRandall said:
it's just like any other rifle. adding weight to the front of the weapon is going to change the POI, though on a .22lr it should be a much smaller adjustment. went though this a few years ago with some friends that had gotten into shooting mosin nagants. they were all jacked up talking about barrel harmonics and some other nonsense when shooting with bayonets on and bayonets off. they were utterly convinced it was something way more scientific that is actually was. weight on the rifle will change POI plan and simple...that being said the shrouds i got from tacticool22 are extremely lightweight and recoil on a .22lr is next to non-existent so i don't imagine too much adjustment to the sights will be necessary.
Click to expand...



Very good point...the barrel shroud seems like the end-all of what to do about the 'end cap issue' and this is probably why...
 
the end cap is a problem because it causes the barrel on the 15-22 to not float. fixing this is just like what you do with a regular stocked rifle when you want to increase accuracy by floating the barrel. in a regular rifle you bed the action and float the barrel in the barrel channel in the stock so that it's not touching. on the 15-22 the barrel is essentially floated to start with, except that pesky end cap is clearly contacting the barrel. so you have 2 options, remove enough material on the inside diameter of the end cap to create a gap between the end cap and the barrel --OR-- remove the durn thing completely, which is the easiest option. now as long as the barrel is firmly and properly attached to the upper assembly then you have a nice little "float" on the 15-22 and your groups should tighten up accordingly
 
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