Has anyone used that $30 threaded barrel end for unthreaded barrels? If so could you tell me how they work and if they're worth the money because I really don't want to spend $80 getting the barrel threaded

Here's the link:

Smith & Wesson M&P15-22 Threaded Barrel End for Non-Threaded Muzzles [TBE2] - $30.00 : Tacticool22, Tactical .22 Rifle Parts and Accessories

I have a threaded barrel, so not for me.

But there are a few members who have it and it works.

Is it just so you can add a flash hider or shroud? If its for suppressor use then spend the money and have it done properly.

+1 on what Low Down said. If you think you will ever use a suppresor, get the barrel threaded the right way. One baffle strike can cause a lot of damage. My experience is that anytime you cut corners to save a few $$$, you end up spending more in the long run.

Your better off just sending it to BELT_FED and have him thread your barrel for $50. I sent mine to him a couple of weeks ago and he threaded my barrel and also put on a really nice threaded barrel shroud. I spent $100 total but if your just looking to get your barrel threaded I would spend the extra $20 and have BELT_FED do it for ya. He had a really quick turnaround too.

I don't think I need to seriously thread the barrel because I'm just looking to put a cheap $30 muzzle brake on it. I'm not really a suppressor guy

True shot technologies makes a flash hider for a unthreaded barrel 15-22 for $18 that looks pretty good

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JR

It does look pretty good, do you just hammer it onto the barrel?

It mounts with three set screws,if you go to their web site,they have pictures

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JR

If you like their style flash hider, it's the cheapest way to go.

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Buy cheap, pay twice.

I have one and like the looks of it. Just be sure you won't want to change it out because it uses red loctite (included) for mounting and on the screws. To remove you would need to heat it to remove.

For a slip on it's very low profile and the fit is very good.

When I got my 15-22, it had a SKS flash hider on it. It clamped on the end of the barrel and looked okay. They are $10 st Cheaper Than Dirt and $11.99 at Coleman Tyler. http://www.colemantyler.com/proddetail.php?prod=AMSKSB

Tacticool. I bought your threaded end adapter and the first time I used it I put inside a little bit of Loctite superglue just to tight it better. It just fell out of my barrel after some intense shots. I assume this is caused by the heat and vibrations after several shots. I fixed it again with a lot of Loctite, including the outside point just to prevent it to turn. I do not return to the range yet but I am afraid it is not going to work again. There is another kind of solution for it?

You did the installation incorrectly. For one thing, you DO NOT use superglue! Virtually any heat will break the bond of super glue. You want LocTite THREADLOCKER. This is not the same as superglue.

Either drill a small dimple in the barrel where the set screw contacts the barrel or file a small flat across the bottom of the barrel. Either one will keep the adapter from sliding forward.

Then put a bead of BLUE LocTite on the end of the barrel and twist the adaptor around the barrel once or twice to evenly distribute the LocTite. Then put a drop of LocTite on the set screw and tighten it down, TIGHT. You will not deform or bend the barrel in any fashion doing this.

Let the LocTite cure for 48 hours!!!!

I've had an adaptor on my barrel for something over 10k rounds, and it's as tight as it was the first time I shot it after the installation.

Majorlk nailed it. The divot or flat mechanically lock the set screw in place and the removable thread lock keeps the screw from backing off until you want to remove it. Use a good allen wrench and when the screw is finger tight tighten the screw until the wrench flexes from 12:00 O'clock to 2:30 or even 3:00 O'clock. Or use a torque wrench and tighten it down 80 to 120 INCH pounds.

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Buy cheap, pay twice.

The BLUE thread locker on the barrel itself is the icing on the case, IMHO, and the key to the adaptor and anything screwed onto it staying in place.

I would thread the barrel. It may cost a few extra bucks, but you're also enhancing the resale value of the gun. Besides, since you live in California you might think about threading the barrel while it's still legal.

Phil, if one is going to install a suppressor, I will agree with you. But with the cost of threading around here being three times the cost of the adaptor, it's not worth it for a simple flash hider or muzzle brake.

Thanks Tacticool! Now it seems this is going to work fine. I re-installed it using blue Loctite 242. Lets see if it stays in place after tons of shots.

I put Blue Loctite on it and around the set screw (242) and just tight it hard. I shot in series of 25 rounds - really fast!- and works great! The only difference between shooting with the adapter and a flash hider and without it is that the zeroing varies a litte, but just have to zeroing it again with the adapter on it (plus flash hider, compensator, etc) and it is as accuracy as without it.

The real key is to let the LocTite cure for a minimum of 48 hours.

And tightening the set screw to the right torque.
And/or adding the divot or flat.

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Buy cheap, pay twice.