Wanted a little change with my 15-22 so i figured I would change the color. I used Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote color from brownells.

I stripped it down, blue taped the holes, hung and sprayed away.




The next morning I removed the blue tape very carefully. I also put the mags back together carefully.



My plan was to put a spikes 12" BAR Rail on it but that did not work. I guess not all rails will work on this rifle. I got the adapter from tractical22 but the way the BAR rail works, it left about a 1/4" gap in between the rail and the upper receiver. So I guess I will keep the BAR rail for my next AR15 build.

More pics to come when the paint finishes curing, so probably next weekend I will put her back together.

Before:



After:



And with it's Cousin the Sig 226 Scorpion:




Chad

Can't wait to see it after its back together... I think there's threads on fixing that gap problem... Good luck.

+1, cant wait for assembled pics.

__________________
od: xd9 3"&4", 15-22, 1911 .22

Likewise ...

+1 I really digg the color.

Jelly Bean

Thanks guys. I'm gonna do my best to hold off until next weekend to let the paint dry all the way. But if I know myself it will probably be sooner.

Chad

I am digging the painting method. I never would have thought of that.

Looks good, surpising how much a little bit of spray paint can change the looks.

Attached Images

IMAG0223.jpg (44.1 KB, 227 views)

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15T,15-22,5946 & some not S&W

I have several rattle-canned rifles. All have held up really well. I think the mistake most people make, as you mentioned, is handling and assembling the components too soon. Yes, the can may say it's dry to handle in 15 minutes, but "Dry" and "Set" are two different qualities. I try to wait about 7 days before handling much or assembling. Then I give everything a solid two weeks from that point before putting it into use. So far I've had great results.

I love that color. Best of luck with your build. Run a search about the gap issue you had on the handguard. Someone else had the same issue when trying to install a Troy handguard. Tacticool22 helped him out with that issue if my memory serves correctly.

Thanks. To me its easier to take apart and paint then to try and paint when its assembled.

Chad

Thanks and yeah it's tough during the waiting period but its worth it. I had the parts out in the sun yesterday sun bathing to help with the curing process.

And I saw the gap issue resolution with the troy handguard, unfortunately not the same with the BAR rail. No biggy though because I have a couple extra AR lowers so now I have a rail for one.

Saw a youtube video that showed a guy installing the Troy Vtac hand guard, he had a gap issue and had to trim some material off the lower pivot pin housing to close the gap....it apparently worked out based on the final assembly results.

__________________
Maker of The TALON Video Mount

Well I put her all together today and have to say I am pretty happy with the looks of it. Also the rattle can paint cured pretty well and seems to be holding strong. The Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote color is a good match to the Magpul FDE color. I will not be able to take it out for 2 more weeks but this will give it more time to cure so I am ok with it.

I added the Battle Arms Ambi safety, thanks simple! If you do decide to get one definitely go through simple weapon solutions as he is very fast with shipping and is helping us out.


I also added the KNS pins as well.

Before:



After:




And here she is with her Cousin the Sig 226 Scorpion

Nicely Done.

Now add an enlarged mag release button and Speed Bolt Release from NDZ for the final touches.

Magazine Release Button
SBR Speed Bolt Release

Looks great, but you forgot the barrel shroud and the scope.

__________________
Maker of The TALON Video Mount

That is very nice. Good job.

But, I thing desert tan would have camouflaged better with the shag carpet.

Thanks. I am thinking about the SBR and the anodized Charging Handle from them.

Thanks, I was thinking about rattle canning the Scope Mount but not the scope.

Gotta love the shag

Don't pass up the enlarged mag release button. It's one of my favorite additions.

That looks awesome. Great work! How did you remove the quad rail and the barrel?

I'll take a look at it


Thanks! YOu get a Barrel nut wrench from this Tacticool22 guy.

http://www.tacticool22.com


It's pretty easy to do. Just make sure when you are unscrewing the nut, you have the barrel pointing down. This is because the barrel comes out the back of the upper and you do not want to damage the ejector that is hanging off of the back of the barrel.

Chad

I have the serrated button on both my 15-22 and the one my 8-year old grandson is getting for christmas. It really makes it easier to push the mag release.

BTW, I have NO affiliation with NDZ except they are about 20 minutes from me and I am a good customer.

Oh yea, great paint job!

How did you put a onepoint sling on your 15-22? Is it something included with the newer models?

lol on the affiliation with NDZ. and thanks

You know what's funny is I was just noticing that a lot of them do not have them on their. I puchased mine back in 2010 so it's not a newer model. It was a Moe model so maybe they come with the Moe editions?

Chad

came out very cool! you could try finding some FDE tape/wrap for the scope and shroud so they blend in better.

__________________
od: xd9 3"&4", 15-22, 1911 .22

Spray them.

Cover the lense with a lens cap or some masking tape (I used Pres-tic - ie BlueTac) and maybe the turrets (my turrets are covered with caps) and spray them.

The shroud? Spray it......

Looks VERY cool. (I like the 2 tone colours though)

Thanks guys. I think I am going to leave the scope and shroud black for now but you never know in a month or so it might change.

I did spray the scope mount and backed it for 3 hours at 200 degrees and let it cure overnight. It was plenty dry this morning since there are no moving parts and the baking of it really helped.

Back in my model railroading days, I sprayed using Floquil (a lacquer), and baked the models at 200 degrees (no plastic in my models )for a couple hours. Not only drying it, I swear that it made the coating more scratch resistant.

Personally, I like the scope and shroud black. Nice contrast. Everything painted would, IMO, make it look like a toy.

Man that came out great, good call on the color.

Attached Images

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Ok hit send before I was ready! I wanna paint mine so bad, but I want something with a little flash, I found a paint that will give me the look of aluminum but I unfortunately need to come up with time to do it.

looks good

Even with plastic you can help the curing by baking it at around 75C for a couple of hours.

I've done that to cheap Airsoft plastic, Glock polymer, Magpul polymer (PTS and original) and even electronics (Original Aimpoint and knock off)

Thanks and wow that will give you a little flash. Cant wait to see the final results and good luck with it.

Thanks

Yeah I cooked my mags in the oven to help them cure for a couple of hours

Chad

I want to paint my mags. Did you take the magazines apart? Or just cover with tape and spray?

I have not painted mine, but if I were going to, I'd take the floor plate off and remove the spring and follower, then paint the magazine and floor plate separately. You might want to even leave the floor plate black, for a bit of contrast.

I woud also let them cure for at least a week before re-assembly. In painting, dry and cured are not synonymous terms.

One caution: you don't want paint on the follower or in the follower track inside the magazine.

Yea I'm a noob when it comes to rifles/firearms haha. I dont know what your talking about but I'm sure I can figure out the follower

As major stated yes take them apart. It only takes two seconds to disassemble the mags by pushing in th button on the bottom of the mag. Just place your finger over the spring while removing the base or it will shoot out as you would expect it to. The follower is the plastic piece that goes up and down on top of the spring.

The only issue is if you have a 10/25 magazine since the follower cannot be removed from the magazine due to the pin making it a 10 round magazine.

Chad

All the parts of the magazine are identified (along with disassembly instructions) on page 25 of your owner's manual.

Gotcha

What brand of primer did you happen to use? Thinking about painting my mags saturday when I get back from the track

No primer at all just sprayed away. Good luck and post when your done.

Chad