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06-01-2013, 10:18 AM
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Scratched the barel now what?
So taking off the stupid flash hidder i now got a big white band around my barrel. Any ideas? Can I just apply the re-blueing stuff on it?
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06-01-2013, 10:22 AM
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Why did you feel the need to remove a perfectly good flash hider? And, how did you do it to end up with that result?
To answer your question, I am not sure what you mean by "apply the re-blueing stuff on it."
Last edited by shawn mccarver; 06-01-2013 at 10:27 AM.
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06-01-2013, 10:39 AM
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Just throw a barrel shroud on it and you'll never see the damage.
Or re-blue.
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06-01-2013, 10:47 AM
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Get yourself some Brownell's Oxpho-Blue creme. You won't be able to match the finish, but the color will be pretty close. Or, like the Major said, cover it up with an extended shroud or flash hider.
Just as a heads up: if your going to attempt removing a flash hider, I would recommend you get yourself a good 3/4" thin machinist's crowfoot socket and a long 3/8 drive breaker bar. Or a good armorer's tool and a length of pipe for a breaker bar.
Also, some high temp polymide tape for the barrel is always a good precaution against slips. I always wrap my barrels to guard against the latter, and in case I have to heat the flash hider to get it off.
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06-01-2013, 10:59 AM
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If all else fails, Duracoat it.
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06-01-2013, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Majorlk
Just throw a barrel shroud on it and you'll never see the damage.
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S'what I'm planning to do!
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06-01-2013, 12:01 PM
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did it slip in your vise where you had it clamped? that's the only way i can see it way down there. i put my barrel in my vice as close as the hider as possible and use a standard whatever size box end wrench, heat the **** out of the hider with a propane torch...comes right off.
i read a lot here that people are having a hard time getting theses off. i wonder if they changed to a stronger locktite at the factory.
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06-01-2013, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadkill45
i read a lot here that people are having a hard time getting theses off. i wonder if they changed to a stronger locktite at the factory.
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That's a real possibility. Anything stronger than Blue can be a dog to get off; Heat is virtually always required.
Also, Loctite makes Loctite CleanUp Solvent to disolve the set up stuff.
It contains N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone. Comes in a 3 oz. bottle.
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06-01-2013, 12:12 PM
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on things like FH's i use a drop of clear fingernail polish, never had a problem....Glock front sites....Red/Black loctite!!
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06-01-2013, 12:36 PM
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Just shoot it, the appearance may bother you but nobody else is going to notice what your barrel looks like. (at least not at the range, other places IDK)
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06-01-2013, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
i wonder if they changed to a stronger locktite at the factory.
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Yeah, I had to heat mine to get it off, it was still a bugger!
As to the marks, just get some Birchwood Casey Super Blue, it goes on cold with a rag, and will at least make it more presentable.
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06-01-2013, 01:26 PM
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Guys, I used vise jaws, 2x4's, heat and none of it worked. I had to use pliers with some padding to stop the slippage. I was under the impression the aluminum would not scratch the steel. But I got now a white band. I do have the barrel shroud. However it has holes and you can see the white. Will try some of the reblueing stuff or paint the area. Thanks for the input guys.
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06-01-2013, 03:11 PM
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Dont worry the inside of the barrel is already scratched. So it isnt going to hurt making the outside match.
If you want it to stay pretty. Do urself a favor and either sll it or never take it out of ur safe. There is no sense in worrying about a pretty weapon. If ur life ever depends on it, i doubt the intruder is going to say "hey whats that scratch on ur barrel from".
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06-01-2013, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pershing
Guys, I used vise jaws, 2x4's, heat and none of it worked. I had to use pliers with some padding to stop the slippage.
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I've had similar problems in the past.
The best thing I have found that works every time are the SCG AR-15/M16 ACCU-GRIP BARREL VISE JAWS
(you can run a search on the Brownell's site). Chuck the barrel up in these with a little rosin, and presto. Although you still may need a torch.
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06-01-2013, 03:36 PM
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I have a benelli shotgun that had scratches all over it from hunting. I picked up some high temp ceramic spray paint in flat black and painted the barrel then baked it on w/ a heat gun. Worked great and is really durable. Might be a cheap option.
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06-01-2013, 03:55 PM
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Paint is an option. What kind of paint easily accessible would work?
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06-01-2013, 04:40 PM
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Were you using aluminum vice jaws? I've just used some talc powder in the jaws I have and that helped get a better grip without causing any finish problems.
I also read somewhere (not sure if it was here or another forum) that the band you see when the barrel slipped in the jaws (if they were aluminum) might be some aluminum that transfered to the barrel. Use some fine steel wool around the marks and see if it comes off.
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06-01-2013, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pershing
Paint is an option. What kind of paint easily accessible would work?
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No, you do not want to paint the barrel, it will not hold up to the heat. Duracoat is an option, though, but if all you are worried about is some scratches on the barrel, why go to the bother and expense?
Just put some bluing compound on it and get back to shooting. If scratches are going to bother you all that much, you need to just hang the rifle on the wall and look at it; Scratches and other wear is a fact of life for firearms that are actually used. I have a 4" Colt Python that's worth four times what my 15-22 is worth and the bluing is gone on either side of the muzzle from holster wear. Big deal.
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06-01-2013, 04:59 PM
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personally..... i wouldnt worry about it. Scratches and bumps and bruises are what they are made for.
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06-01-2013, 05:09 PM
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A Little Black Sharpie Goes A Long Way.
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06-01-2013, 05:15 PM
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I got 99 problems, but a little scratch aint one of em.
sheesh
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06-01-2013, 09:15 PM
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If you used aluminum vice jaws then it's not scratched it just has aluminum rubbed into the machining marks on the barrel. Load up a rag with some CLP and run the rag around the barrel and it will come off.
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06-01-2013, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty357
Dont worry the inside of the barrel is already scratched. So it isnt going to hurt making the outside match.
If you want it to stay pretty. Do urself a favor and either sll it or never take it out of ur safe. There is no sense in worrying about a pretty weapon. If ur life ever depends on it, i doubt the intruder is going to say "hey whats that scratch on ur barrel from".
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You going into battle with a .22LR?
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06-01-2013, 09:27 PM
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Listen to telero and Brett248vista. I little steel wool and some CLP will remove it if you used an aluminum barrel vice.
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06-01-2013, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatillo
A Little Black Sharpie Goes A Long Way.
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Especially when you're trying to sell a gun
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06-01-2013, 10:18 PM
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Thx guys, will try and report...
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06-01-2013, 10:38 PM
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Yes, it is just residue from the aluminum blocks. The finish should be fine. If a little CLP doesn't remove it, some Birchwood-Casey cold blue on a rag will take the residue of instantly.
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06-02-2013, 01:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjb4242
You going into battle with a .22LR?
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LMAO, geees i hope not. The rant wasnt intended towards the .22LR directly. Point was no matter what weapon u pull, the intruder isnt going to worry about the scratched barrel.
Besides most of the time they dont even hang out long enough to find out what caliber it is.
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06-02-2013, 08:47 AM
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I took your picture and enlarged it 600% to take a better look. After careful examination with a spectral fluxometer, I am positive that you should buy another rifle. Although this one will still be safe to shoot, a new one will make you feel better.
I also agree that that it very well could be aluminum on the steel which will come off and leave you a perfectly good barrel. Have you ever eaten in a cheap diner and seen gray marks on your supposedly white china plate? That is STAINLESS steel from the tables in the dishwasher area. Stainless steel tables are often produced with a very rough finish to save cost. A china plate can be harder than the steel and actually wear the steel off. Since it is stainless, it doesn't rust. But those gray streaks can be removed with a little elbow grease.
When you see gray streaks on the plates and the bathroom looks a little rough, I can assure you that you don't want to see the kitchen and walk-in coolers. What's in the back is never cleaner than the front.
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06-02-2013, 10:10 AM
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I scratched my shovel yesterday planting sweet potatoes. Had to throw the danged thing away.
Point is, a tool is a tool. Tools get used and show wear. It is a badge of honor, in the tool world, to be used and to be worn. What tool wants to be a closet queen?
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06-02-2013, 11:09 AM
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Those who are saying to leave the scratches let me ask you... If you scratched your brand new sports car would you fix it, or would you just leave the damage and call it a badge of honor? I'm pretty sure that you would fix it. Now I know a car is not the same as a 500 dollar rifle or even more money with accessories, but since the M&P is not a 100 dollar rifle I would want to get rid of the scratches or marks.
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06-02-2013, 12:25 PM
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I seem to use my weapons for their intentions. Which means im an avid hunter and i bring my weapons in the woods with me very often. I also bring my 4 wheeler and my truck (sometimes) into the woods with me. I'm pretty sure ALL of them have scratches, and im pretty sure all of them function just fine. If i was worried about them getting scratches i'd find a new hobby. Like sitting at home and getting old, lol.
I have a Binelli that i use for hunting duck at our camp. Of course it may just be a near $1500 shot gun, but of course I also dont care to scratch it. I'm just using it for its intended purpose, therefore scratches are technically "Badges of Honor"
If my sports car could be driven off road and get somewhere where its very likely to get scratched. Then no, id never fix the scratches because chances are it'll get scratched again next weekend.
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06-02-2013, 02:03 PM
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I had my new Nissan Titan about a month and I went offroad with my son. Came back home covered in mud and "Forest pin striping" My wife was not too pleased, but I did not buy a 4x4 to be a pavement princess, I bought it to get to the places I need to go.
Blueing will remove the aluminum almost instantly, but it will do nothing for the smoothness. All the little bumps, grooves and imperfections that gave your barrel that matte finish have been flattened.
Aluminum vise jaws need to have enough vise to keep the barrel from spinning. The softer the aluminum, the more it will "grab" the barrel. My new ones are dead soft, just a little harder than lead.
As far as thread lock on the flash hider, I have no idea why S&W (or any assembler) would do that. The crush washer is there to keep the FH from working loose.
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06-02-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush Pilot
Especially when you're trying to sell a gun
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lol thanks now i know not to buy a gun from you matter of fact anything.
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06-02-2013, 02:34 PM
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OK..... Maybe scratches that you get on you rifle while out in the field are badges of honor and I can understand leaving those alone , but "oops" marks from a barrel vise clamp I would definitely want to remove.
Tacticool22, I did the same thing to my F150 4x4. I bought it in 2003, had it for a few weeks, took it off road and came home with scratches all over it from all the Mesquite bushes sticking out on the trails. My truck is black so it really shows, but I bought the truck for desert use and hauling my dirtbike so it's all good.
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06-02-2013, 03:31 PM
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Thx for your input guys. So to outline the discussion we got:
- people that dont care about scratches and had no input as to fix it. I knew there had to be someone buying those abused rifles at the gun show
- people that believe is aluminum and provided tips on how to remove it
- people that advise to cover it via paint or shroud
Thanks...
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06-02-2013, 03:33 PM
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Btw I have a 2004 4x4 toyota tundra with plenty of scratches. However when times are tough and the dealer is nickel and diming every scratch you bring out the touch paint
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06-02-2013, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacticool22
As far as thread lock on the flash hider, I have no idea why S&W (or any assembler) would do that. The crush washer is there to keep the FH from working loose.
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Winner, winner chicken dinner. In fact I put just a light dab a hi temp grease on the threads so when I want to remove the FH (or whatever you have on the end of your barrel) it doesn't damage the threads..
and by the way.. Tacticool22 you have the fastest shipping I have seen from most vendors. I ordered your non-threaded barrel adapter on 5/25, shipped 5/26, received on 5/28. That's on a holiday weekend, shipping from Oregon to Indiana. The FH I ordered from Brownells the same time I got 3 days later on the 31st.
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06-03-2013, 09:52 AM
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flat krylon will not come off with heat from a barrel, i've painted enough of them to know. it almost matches exactly the krylon camo flat black, hit it with a couple light coats and be done with it. let it cure for a few days though, that is where people mess up when painting guns..long curing time for rattle cans.
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06-03-2013, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pershing
- people that dont care about scratches and had no input as to fix it. I knew there had to be someone buying those abused rifles at the gun show
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Well there are certainly all kinds of folks here. For example, never would I think of comparing a rifle to a brand new sports car. A 4x4 pickup, maybe but a sports car?
I think it important to distinguish between an abused weapon (tool) and one that might get scratched in use and/or show some wear. My horses tend to like to bite and scratch the paint on my truck, but then again, it ain't a sports car. That same truck got a little scratched a few days ago while driving an elderly friend around his 1000 acre farm, checking his cows & determining if his hay was ready to be cut. When you drive off-road, trees & bushes sometimes grow where you want to go.
I guess in a city, someone might look down on a scratched up 4x4 truck but around here, it is not unusual. Same way with maybe a rifle. If all you do is shoot at a range then some might make fun of that scratch on your barrel but around here, no one would give it a second glance.
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06-03-2013, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacticool22
I had my new Nissan Titan about a month and I went offroad with my son. Came back home covered in mud and "Forest pin striping" My wife was not too pleased, but I did not buy a 4x4 to be a pavement princess, I bought it to get to the places I need to go.
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Glad I am not the only one. Bought my truck in July and it stayed pristine, right up until hunting season, in September. Once I started using it to haul corn to the feeders, it had "mesquite pin striping".
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06-03-2013, 11:24 AM
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If you can take the barrel off you can ship it to John Norrell Refinishing and they can redo the entire barrel in just about any color including Magpul Specific Colors. Last I checked to do just the barrel was around $20-$40. If you don't want to mess with the disassembly you could even send the entire upper and they will charge a small fee to remove the barrel, refinish and reassemble the upper.
John Norrell Arms - FAQ's
RP
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06-04-2013, 09:48 AM
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was gonna say Arizona Pin Striping is a Badge of Honor over here!
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06-05-2013, 05:40 AM
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2nd story bedroom has sliding glass doors. Have found a 2liter Pepsi bottle fits nicely over the flash suppressor to help with noise inside when popping the squirrels needed for stew in the trees. That mark on the suppressor also cleans off.
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06-05-2013, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my_mp15-22_s&w
2nd story bedroom has sliding glass doors. Have found a 2liter Pepsi bottle fits nicely over the flash suppressor to help with noise inside when popping the squirrels needed for stew in the trees. That mark on the suppressor also cleans off.
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