Hello everyone!

I am new to this forum and new to the AR Platform. After doing lots of research, reading, test firing, visiting stores and several LGS (multiple times), and more reading, I decided on a 15-22.

Well, I picked one up last week. I picked up the MOE version and in FDE. Yep, even learning all the acronyms (trying anyway) .

I was looking at where to start....

I have spent the last week reading threads upon threads, and watching YouTube videos. I've watch all of Brett248vista's videos as well. Considering that this is the MOE version, it seems that I've got a decent start on upgrades before walking out of the store. So where would one go next?

I don't have ANY experience around scopes, but would love to learn. I don't know of anyone or place (at the moment) where I could shoot this beyond my local indoor range which is 25 yards. I would like to get some information/tutorial/video on scopes, different types, what they can/can't do, how the operate, how one would "adjust" the scope, etc. I've heard of red dot scopes, green dot scopes, cross hairs, etc. I don't hunt at all but would love to one day. I am working on some work contacts who hunt all the time to see who would take a virgin hunter under their wing

I've spent most of my budget on the rifle, bag, and ammo, so I would like to start with something inexpensive, for my needs, and to really learn. I don't know if I really want to add anything expensive on this rifle (right now). I see that there are very many enthusiasts on here and would appreciate some good guidance. I don't know what the specs on the scopes mean, so an explanation of that would be great! I am already looking at additional magazines, magazine loader (fingertips hurt after 500 res), looking for an FDE Charging handle, and some other neat stuff.

I went with the 15-22 so that I can learn the AR platform and teach my kids at the same time. We all have shot this rifle since purchase and have put about 500 rounds through it. WHAT A BLAST!! We've field stripped it, cleaned and lubed it, and put it all back together.

Thanks in advance guys!

Welcome to the Insanity!

Optic Choice will depend on how you intend to use the rifle, at what distances and how
good your eye sight is.

"Dot Optics" tend to be no magnification (Listed as 1X) so what you see through the
optic is exactly the same as your other eye. If you have good eye sight then you can
probably shoot a dot optic out to 100 yards with no issues.

Scope optics come in a multitude of Magnification (Powers) some are "Fixed" meaning
that the magnification remains constant, others are "Variable" which means that the
amount of magnification can be adjusted and is usually expressed as Power - Power and
Objective Size EG: 3-9 x 40mm which means it has a 40mm Objective Lens and an
adjustable magnification from 3 times to 9 times.


If you go with a dot optic in most cases you can also add-on a magnification device and
these usually flip to the side for when you do not require magnification.

Welcome.

Optic = an aiming device that contains glass, that you look through for target aquisition
Reticle = the pattern on the glass of the optic used to line up your sight with the target, such as "cross hairs", a simple dot, etc.
Scope = an optic that is usually magnified, and usually has some form of cross hair for the reticle.
Dot sight = a device that is generally not magnified, and is electronic, where a simple dot or other reticle pattern is displayed on the glass. This dot is colored light. In the past, red was the easiest to make and took the least amount of power (meaning longer battery life). Now, dot sights come in green and occasionally blue as well, some dot sights have more than one color option.
magnifier = generally has no cross hair or reticle of it's own, but a device designed to be used in tandem with a dot sight to provide magnification on the otherwise unmagnified dot sight.

You can find scopes that have an illuminated reticle option, where you can add red or green light to the crosshairs, making it more usable in low light.

cheap optics will suit you fine for familiarizing yourself with them and training, just about all of them will handle the .22lr round just fine and allow you to try things out, multiple optics even without spending a ton. Of the lesser brands, I've had good luck with Barska for scopes and Sightmark for dot sights.

Enjoy!

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686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

Also:
Dot sights are going to excel at fast target acquisition. You can generally keep both eyes open when using them, so you can keep your peripheral vision. They generally allow you to get on target faster than iron sights or a magnified scope. The down side is no magnification, so you get no help on shots at longer distances.

magnified scopes will, well, magnify your target, making it appear bigger when looking through the scope. This allows you to be more accurate at longer distances. They require you to look through the scope with one eye, so you only see what's available through the scope - you lose peripheral vision as well. Excel at long distance shots and precision shooting. Generally takes longer to line up your shot.

If you plan to go on and hunt mammals, a scope would be a good idea to become familiar with. Animals are generally skiddish, and don't allow people to get very close so most of your shots will be at a distance where the magnification is going to be extremely helpful if not necessary. Also, shot placement becomes even more important, needing to land that bullet in the lungs/heart/vital organs area, which is just easier to do with precision cross hairs as opposed to a non magnified dot. That's not to say you couldn't hunt with a dot sight. Some types it's even more common, foul is often hunted with a dot sight on a shot gun.

If you plan to train for self defense or shooting competitions that are grounded in speed, dot sights are going to excel for the simple fact they really do allow you to get on target quicker than other types of aiming devices. Again, you are limited in range with them, but most self defense and armed conflict within the USA these days (being mostly urban) takes place at under 100 yards where the dot sight is probably going to be the preferred aiming device.

Hope that helps.

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686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

My advise is to slow down. You have a great basic rifle, so at this point you just need to shoot... a lot. If you have to, go to gunbroker.com to get your ammo. Costs a bit more but you don't have to waste time & energy hunting ammo... unless of course you like doing so.

Since now you are shooting close range, I suggest getting a good, cheap red dot. I, and lots of others use the TRS-25 which can be purchased for under $100. As you advance in your shooting, and see what type of shooting you do most, then you can upgrade optics. I have a killer Leupold Mark 4 scope, that costs twice what this gun costs, but I still prefer using the TRS-25 for the way I shoot. If I get out to 50+ yards, I use my flip up 3x magnifier from Primary Arms.

Once you are set on optics, my next upgrade would be the trigger. Lots of threads here about triggers. I use the drop in CMC, but lots of great options.

I wasted a bit of money on tactical cool stuff. Looks great but just adds weight. I don't really need a flashlight attached to shoot targets during the day. I have a good Harris bipod, but only attach it when sighting in.

Once you have shot a lot, you can start upgrading the stock & grips. They add some to the shooting experience but what comes with your gun is real nice.

Once again, slow down & resist the urge to make your gun look pretty. That happens to most of us & I bet lots of folks here have gear sitting on their shelves now. Stuff that looks cool but doesn't help you shoot better.

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And a warm welcome from “wild and wonderful “ West Virginia at least that’s what they tell us.

Make sure you read the post here epically about protecting the ejector. Lots of good advice already offered to ya so no need me adding except I'm parcel to the Vortex Sparc between $160 on sale at Primary Arms, and $200 but that's a micro red dot.

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Psalm 23:4

RedNeckJim's response is spot on. Slow down, shoot the rifle, and let your tastes adjust according to what kind of shooter you are. So many people, including myself, buy accessories based on how you want the rifle to look only to find out they either have no to little real world use or don't meet your needs.

To start, pick up some extra magazines. It's no fun spending half of your time at a range reloading so extra mags are a necessity. After that, I'd make sure you have enough ammo to shoot to your hearts content. It goes quick so having enough on hand is pretty important.

Everything else, like optics, can wait until you decide what kind of shooter you are. Since you are limited to 25 yards a scope is really overkill, but you may find a place where you can shoot out to longer distances. Personally, I'd look for such a place quickly.

You know, I originally thought so too and bought a bunch of magazines. I bet I have 10 S&W 25 rounders and maybe 5 or so 10 round shorts.

However now when I shoot, I only bring down the one 25 round magazine. Otherwise I find myself, or my friends, ripping thru the ammo too quick. I have found the delay while loading the magazine is great for talking & discussing issues. It also allows the gun (and suppressor) to cool down.

Sometimes it is nice to slow down & smell the roses. I did however just this am, receive a Black Dog 50 round drum.

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There's nothing worse than a reformed magazine junkie!

Some more defintions to help demystify:
"Objective Lens" is the lens on the front of an optic. In general, larger diameter objectives gather more light, resulting in a brighter image, and also provide for a flatter field of view - - less distortion at the edges. The downside is they are more cumbersome & weigh more. And cost more.

BCG = Bolt Carrrier Group. AR-speak for the parts in the upper receiver that move with the bolt or that the bolt moves on.

FCG = Fire Control Group. Parts in the lower receiver responsible for connecting your finger to the 'bang.' Trigger, hammer, seer, safety, disconnector, springs for same.

The 15-22 is about 80%* mechanically similar to a full-up AR. The FCG is virtually identical, but the BCG mechanism is different.

Full-up AR's use a gas tube from the front of the barrel to operate a cam-locking rotary bolt, which lets them operate at much greater chamber pressures. The bolt rotates and interlocks with fingers on the rear barrel face, much like the lid of a pressure cooker. Both extractor and ejector parts are on the bolt itself.

The 15-22 uses a simpler blowback bolt, where spring pressure, bolt inertia, and backward reaction of the fired round are the only operating forces. The bolt does not lock on a chambered round, instead, spring pressure and the inertia of the bolt are what holds it closed until the round is fired. The extractor is on the bolt, but the ejector hook is fixed on the barrel - that long black hook you see extending rearward when you remove the BCG.

*note, all statistics on the internet are only 75%** accurate.
** including that one.

Jim-I hear you on the mags, and it's actually a good idea as far making a person slow down and not burn through the ammo. Personally, I don't like the process of loading mags so I tend to bring 6 -8 mags with me when I shoot and call it good.

This just goes to show that you need to shoot in order to know what kind of shooter you are. I think most people would benefit from having at least a few mags, but maybe the OP will follow in the footsteps of Jim.

Putting lead downrange is the only way to find out.

Welcome to the forum? Is a "platform" some kind of gun?

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'Merica!

THANKS GUYS!! A lot of great info so far and I appreciate everyone's time and effort in helping me understand. I've read some good suggestions...and I think I won't spend too much time making it look pretty an focus on the important things. I have a good stock of ammo that will keep me busy. I like having several magazines. I actually have about 12 magazines for another pistol (shared between two guns). I like the idea of having several mags but also understand slowing down and not blowing through 500 rounds in an hour (like my first visit with it). So i was originally looking at higher cap mags (plinker tactical) but think I will stay with OEM FDE from S&W. I might get one or a couple to add.

I went out to a couple of LGS today and started talking to people on red dots/scopes and got some good information and pricing. I was able to touch and feel several which was great. Going to tie that in with the comments here and maybe look at picking up something inexpensive in the weeks, maybe month to come. I am seeing all the cool "stuff" out there like flashlights, and other attachments that I most likely won't need. Looks cool, but won't really use it. I really like the detailed description of scopes, dots, and its terminology (thanks for that). All good and new stuff for me.

Thanks again guys!

Where to start? At the range making your new gun go bang!

This thread was timed well. I was going to ask about the same thing. I just picked up the pink one and will be getting either a black or camo one. It will be a very gunny xmas. Pink for 7 yr old girl and 9 yr boy the other. I plan on a few extra mags and probably a bi pod to help steady the gun.

Learning the ins n outs of cleaning are high on my list.

Keep the replies coming. I bet the op isnt the only one reading them.

You already spent more than enough money on the gun. put the rest into mags and ammo. at 25 yards the sights that came with the gun work fine. Down the road, if something really bothers you & you will actually gain some advantage, go for it as your wallet will allow. It's not exactly a long range benchrest gun, nor a seal team six favorite, don't try to make it so. My 2 cents.

Welcome! Best advice here was to go shoot and learn what you need, what you like and what works for you. Otherwise you end up buying stuff twice... (After trying out a 4x32 on the 22lr, found it wasn't very useful past 50yds... not enough magnification @ 100yds for accuracy... now looking at 3 or 4 to 9-12 power and the best reticle for 22lr and 223 later.....) Find a range and enjoy!

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Piece Keeper

Congrats on your 15-22!

One of the things that really made shooting more enjoyable for me has been using reactive paint targets that clearly show where I hit. I like these: Amazon.com : 40 Pack - 10x16" Reactive Splatter Target 5 Bulls-eyes Per Target - Multicolor - Total of 200 Targets on All 40 Sheets : Hunting Targets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/511HIdvSh6L.@@AMEPARAM@@511HIdvSh6L

My girlfriend and I found some Battleship gameboard-style target sheets that are great for pistol practice and I'm sure would be fun for a rifle as well. Amazon.com : Birchwood Casey Battle Target 8 Pack : Hunting Targets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51gDqvEcWCL.@@AMEPARAM@@51gDqvEcWCL

I picked up a very inexpensive AIM brand reflex sight with four different types of dots on it. Amazon.com: Aim Sports Red Dot Sight with 4 Different Reticles: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41YuFlW-AyL.@@AMEPARAM@@41YuFlW-AyL

It has performed great on my rifle and didn't cost much. My girlfriend who hadn't fired a rifle before found the dot sight to be much easier to sight with than standard irons.

I found that I really like having a circle around the dot in the red dot scope because it helps me adjust for distance, so I went with one of these leaper scopes and it has served quite well. Amazon.com: UTG 4-Inch Compact ITA Red/Green Circle Dot Sight with Integral QD Picatinny Mount: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41rrugaynuL.@@AMEPARAM@@41rrugaynuL

At some point I will be picking up a 3x or 4x scope but since most of the ranges in my area are indoor 25 yard, I don't have much use for it.

Keep in mind that you can spend more than your rifle is worth on a scope, but you are probably money ahead to buy something cheap that works and then put more money toward ammo or toward a better grip/rail covers/whatever.

What I didn't realize before buying the 15-22 was that the AR platform is about as close to buying a Lego kit as you can get in the world of guns. Poke around the picture thread on this forum where people are modifying their guns and see what works and doesn't work for you.

Have fun!

Excellent thread...I've learned a bunch. Thanks for helping and sharing the knowledge!!

The only FRIVOLOUS accessory I've installed on my MOE so far is the tactical bottle opener...it looks great, and I'm still happy to have it.

OK Everyone: I ended up with a Bushnell TRS-25 with a UTG .83 High Rise Mount. The one I bought came with a high rise mount but I didn't like it much. It had a not so very good thumb screw. Keep in mind that this is all new to me. I went with something based on all the comments, threads, and suggestions. Original impressions were lousy....probably because none of my elevation/windage adjustments were working.

Lo and behold...the knobs I were "adjusting"....yeah, they are caps! Who knew! Yes, I will be the first to admit that I didn't know they were caps. So I backed the cap off, o-ring and all, and guess what? The Adjustment Screw!!! YES!! <---- That's how you adjust it! LMAO! I spent a little more time "zeroing" in at 25 yards. I will also be first to tell you... I have NO idea what "zeroing" in means So, my version is: make adjustments until you feel you are hitting the target at the desired distance (25 yards).

I took slow shots, maybe 3 seconds between each, breathing slowing, and trying to hit the bullseye. All in all, I shot a total of 300rds. The first 100 was really seeing where this red dot was at (factory) with that stock riser that kept moving on me. Since I didn't have a large enough screwdriver to tighten it down, I used the ladder rails to keep as steady as possible, and tighten it as much I as I could with my thumb. The next 100 was fine tuning. I know the experts out there and the manual says to shoot 3-5 rounds and adjust. My problem is having to bring the target back after 5 shots seems like it was going to be a long day (I didn't have much time today, considering, I was at the range for two hours ). So I shot 10 at a time, brought the target back to check, then adjusted.

Here are the results and an updated pic of some accessories:

I added the AFG (Still playing around with placement. MOE XTM Rails, sides and top.


This is the 2nd (100 rds) still figuring it out.


Then the last 100 rds:


I have to say...Today was really fun! After leaving the range, I picked up the UTG .83 mount and will be back at it again zeroing in. Without the red dot, I was having a hard time barely hitting any of the red with the MBUS Sights. Maybe my eyes are bad I don't think I will be shooting any further than 25 yards in the near future. I guess I can say that I have a 2" grouping at 25 yards? Seems good to me

Thanks again for all the advice and suggestions everyone!!

Woo Hoo! That didn't take long great results and the rifle looks fantastic.

Thanks! Your videos helped tremendously along with the good explanations of others here.

Great forum! I feel at home.

"zeroing" is pretty much what you think. putting the dot in the center of the bulls eye and pulling the trigger a few times to see where the bullets land. where you aim is called " point of aim" or POA, where the bullet hits on target is called " point of impact" or POI. if they are not the same, you make small adjustments to the sight until your poa and poi are the same, and there is zero difference between them, then you are "zeroed".

you should only fire 2 or 3 rounds in between adjustments because that is all you need. you never fire just one round because maybe there is something off with that round, either from you or the ammo itself - firing 2-3 rounds will give you a group with which to base your adjustments on.

iron sights need to be zeroed as well. Poor results with your MBUS may very well be poor eye sight, but it could just as well mean you need to zero those sights.

also, keep in mind the when you " zero" a sight, it's for the ammo as well as the gun/ sight combo. meaning, different ammo with different bullet weight, velocity, etc is going to affect point of impact, generally minimally. most of the time it's not enough to matter, but just keep that in mind

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686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

Thanks! POI and POA = 2 more acronyms I know understand. I will try 2-3 shots next time (maybe tomorrow since I need to zero in with the new UTG Riser). I will have more time and patience. I was in the "carnival" mode where you win the Large prize if you shoot the star out of the target. Also, I found I hard time keeping still before pulling the trigger. I felt the need to lean against the left wall divider to help stabilize myself. I think a bipod will help stabilization for sighting in? I've heard of shooting from a rest or bench, but not sure if the range has something like that for me to use or if this is something i have to go out and get. Or what might be the best way going about it.

I added an edit about iron sights and ammo to my last post, just an fyi.

to truly " zero" any sight, it should be done with a bi-pod in the least, or from bench with a stabilizing stand or sand bags. this removes most of the sway that comes from shoulder firing, removes the " human element" if you will. most ranges have rests or bags that you can use/ rent - definitely worth looking in to.

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686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

I just realized that when I shot this for the first time, I was sighting in the MBUS at 7 yards. I then moved the target down range at 25 using the same POA. Didn't dawn on me until you mentioned it, that I needed to sight the MBUS at 25 yards. Duh... Most of my pistol shooting have been at 7 and 15 yards. I never really shot any further than that. Since getting this 15-22, I am trying new things.

I am learning a lot here and at the range. I bought a "platinum" membership Christmas last year. It was an Arm/Leg but it bumped to the front of line when there was a 2 hour wait at that time. The membership is nice as I don't pay range fees with it. It's definitely paid for itself with as many visits I make. I see myself making more frequent visits between now and Christmas, and most likely renewing it again.

Couple of extra thoughts:

Those big "screwdriver slots" in the thumbscrews are usually meant to accommodate a coin, like a dime or quarter, as a tightening tool.

Instead of bringing the target back after each group, take a pair of binoculars with you. Saves a ton of to-ing and fro-ing, especially if you start shooting at outdoor ranges with fixed targets and shared target space. Can't call a range stop every three rounds.

The "splatter" type targets help a lot with making hits visible over distance; at 50 yards, even with decent binocs, those tiny .22 cal holes can be hard to spot. Walmart sells 'em pretty cheap.

Zeroing as noted above is dependent upon a lot of factors, including the range at which you zero. Since the round travels in an arc (ballistic curve), but your sighting system (regardless of type) works in a straight line-of-sight, the range at which you zero determines where the line intersects the arc.

Using a short zero range has the sight-line intersecting the arc when the round is still rising, and so will be 'correct' at two ranges; one at the zero range, and one much further away. In between those two ranges, your POI will be higher than your POA.

If you can zero at or close to the range at which the round's arc "peaks," then at that range your sights will be exactly right, and at any other range your POI will always be below you POA. This makes shooting at different ranges simpler, because you are just "aiming high" by varying amounts based on range, instead of sometimes having to aim high, and other times having to aim low.

The tricky bit is, that ballistic arc is different for every round; it's driven mainly by muzzle velocity and mass of the projectile, but everything from altitude to air temperature to humidity to barometric pressure can influence it some.

Being a 'theoretical' datum, the exact path any particular round follows will deviate for a hundred reasons, including the basic accuracy & condition of the weapon, irregularities in the bullet, the powder load... not to mention the shooter's ability to hold the POA steady while their booger-hook cycles the bang-switch.

That's what makes shooting fun! (Leastwise for numbers geeks like me, heh)

I found this pic after a quick google search; really gives a good idea of the different ballistics of several small rimfire rounds. It shows the writers' experimental data for rise/drop in inches versus range in yards.



& this one gives a really good visualization of the impact of line-of-sight versus ballistics, and even brings in the concept of how sight height impacts zero point. It also shows why "bore-sighting" only gets you an approximate starting point for zeroing your sights. Bullets travel in a curve, light travels pretty much in a straight line.


(It's from Australia, but contrary to expectations, the curves are not upside down!)

^^^ Wow! Good information. I like the coin trick. I did take lots of math courses in HS and College and never thought I would need it here . Thanks for the share. I find enjoying reading the stuff like this. It's puts a new perspective to the results and variations.

Thanks!!!


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Something else to consider is that you should clean the barrel if you switch from one make of ammo to another as the accuracy can be impacted if you don't.
Also, once you clean the barrel you may need to shoot upwards to 10 rounds or so to season it. The first few rounds burn off any cleaning solvents, warm it up, etc. You may find your first few rounds don't shoot like the ones to follow and this is why.

I redid some XTM Covers and was looking through the Red Dot. It has the UTG .83 High Rise mount and discovered why this was suggested by most. I flipped out the MBUS Sights...Lo and Behold, I can see the sights through the scope!! I tried this with the mount that came with TRS-25 and I couldn't see 'em before. SWEET! I thought I was going to have to remove the Red Dot physically to shoot using MBUS. Freakin' awesome. Y'all ROCK! Next item for me to learn...To sling or not to sling. I plan on visiting a friends place here in Texas who has about 80 acres. We've shot on his land before but only pistols. I can see where a sling would be useful. I can't see any other time I would personally use a sling. Suggestions? I have the MOE version that came with the QD Swing Swivel Attachment Point on the lower. What else and where else would I attached a sling to? I see that there are also many options for this as well.

Keep in mind, a sling, just like most attachments, isn't permanent. Note the QD, which obviously means quick disconnect. If you have an application where you need to carry the gun long distance, then yes, get a sling. But for all other purposes, I would take it off... unless you happen to use the sling to brace yourself during shooting. I have a sling but never use it. I'm either shooing at home or driving out to where I'm gonna shoot. I'm too old & fat for hiking.

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This is called "Co-Witnessing." Another new term!

LOL! I wouldn't be doing any hiking with this anytime soon so a QD would probably suit my needs. I am guessing there are QD attachments I would place on a rail to go along with the QD on the lower that came with it?

I JUST finished watching a youtube video that explained that!

Yep, I got mine from Amazon & placed it on the far end of the side rail.

404 - Document Not Found

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When using a two point sling, I use a rail mounted sling attachment, but mount it far back. I've found I really like having the forward sling attachment behind my off hand. But that only works if the rear mount is at the far end of the stock.


Shown on my M&P15x, but I have the same setup on the 15-22. That is a Magpul RSA (railed sling attachment) I'm using in tandem with a Magpul MS3 sling. Fine pieces of equipment.

For your rifle though, the QD mount on the MOE receiver is designed for a single point sling. If you try to mount a 2 point sling using that QD slot for the rear attachment point, it's really awkward to get the rifle to your shoulder for firing, you get entangled with the sling.

The other option is to attach the sling directly to the stock (using the slots on the rear of it) for the rear attachment and purchase a rail mount sling attachment point for the forward spot (such as the RSA, or plenty of other options, both less and more expensive).

If you don't plan on using the sling much, I'd get a cheap 1 point sling with QD connection and just use that as the QD connection is already built into your receiver - very little money spent for a workable option.

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686/M&P9 Pro/M&P15X/M&P15-22

Being an old-school kind of guy, I went with an old-school sling solution as close to what I learned on in the early 80's as possible without changing the foregrip/front sight assy:

2-point attachment of a USGI sling, rear of stock and forward of my grip point.



I'm sure some of the newer 1-point or 3-point sling arrangements actually work better (otherwise the pro's would still be using the 2-point), but for me this is comfortable.

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Welcome to the madness! You have great new plinker and have made some great choices. One of the first mods I did was to replace the trigger spring with a JP yellow spring. It is super easy to do and costs very little. You can buy it from a number of sites. I got mine from midway; it was under $15 with shipping. I also bought a smaller front sight post. Not the entire front sight just a smaller sight post. This really helped with the iron sights and was also verysuperb cheap toto do. Kudos on the TRS 25, that is excatly what I bought.

I thought you were kidding on the bottle opener. I browsed Tacticool's website and IT DOES exist! LOL!

I ended up back at the range today and decided to sight the TRS-25 to 10 meters since I will be taking my 8 yr old son to test fire it. He has been showing lots of interest in it. He has an SR-22 that he shoots with regularly when we go together.

While there, I asked a employee about some suggestions on slings. I think I have one in mind.

Also while there, I had a thought...

When you purchase a firearm (long gun or pistol), what distance are the stock sights typically sighted for? Are they set for any specific distance? For pistols, most of my practice has been 7 or 15 yards for CHL Qual. I assumed the factory sights on my pistol I bought were already set for close distances?

Now that my MBUS and TRS-25/UTG .83 are sighted for 10 meters and Co-Witnessed (<---- Look at all those acronyms), Should I adjust the MBUS for longer distances when I want to shoot longer distances? I am thinking to leave the MBUS where they are at since I wouldn't shoot w/o the Red Dot at that distance and only sight in the Red Dot.

The odds of factory iron sights being adjusted for any specific distance is next to nil. Do not assume the rifle has been sighted it at all.

Do your own sighting in.

That's what I figured. Thanks! Sighted in for 10 meters for this weekend and some father/son time.

And as stock pistol sights generally have no elevation adjustment zeroing for distance is pretty much "built in." I don't know for what distance, though. I would assume it's pretty parallel to the barrel alignment.

OK: So I took my 8 year old son to the range for a little game of battleship. I had the Red Dot sighted for 10 meters. Guess what? We both could not see any of the ships at that range! LOL. We ended up moving up to 7 yards. Accuracy was a little off but close enough to play. He ended up sinking all my ships first and won! We had a blast! I also learned how to shoot for 2 hours and only use roughly 200 rounds! Playing Battleship! I've shot about 1,000 in the last two days plinking away. SO MUCH FUN!!