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Old 03-21-2014, 12:08 PM
sithlord sithlord is offline
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I decided to remove the barrel nut on my 15-22. Rather than purchasing one of the available tools, I made my own. Ok, I actually made 4 of them. In all cases, the barrel was clamped in a vice between two blocks of wood, one with a curved recess for the barrel, and the other flat.

The first two were schedule 40 PVC. Both broke all four teeth attempting to remove the barrel nut.

The third was out of 1" aluminium closet rod. I added a PVC insert that helped to both protect the barrel and provide a hex-head for an adjustable crescent wrench. I used PVC cement to attach the insert to the closet rod (perhaps not the best choice - maybe need to go to an epoxy or something else). Anyhow, on two different occasions, the barrel nut was stronger than the cement, in that the PVC now rotates independently inside the closet rod. It's still tight enough though that I can't twist the PVC by hand - only by adjustable crescent wrench.

The latest was 3/4" galvanized steel conduit. Using this and a pipe wrench, I was finally able to take off the barrel nut. However, the teeth on the conduit that hook to the barrel nut were bent afterwords (not terribly, but noticeably). There did not appear to be any loctite residue on the barrel nut (there was for the flash suppressor - a white dot present on two different rifles)

Now, I've read here that the barrel nut should be on to about 20 ft pounds of force, and that the schedule 40 PVC should be sufficient. So I'm curious as to why my barrel nut was on so tight, and whether I need the same level of torque when I replace it.

This is a newer (October 2013) 15-22. Most of the discussion re barrel nuts is from 2012 or earlier.

Thanks for any input/advice.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:35 PM
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tacticool22 tacticool22 is offline
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The best thing is to buy the correct tool(s) made for the job. :-)
The best answer I have goten from S&W is 20 Ft. Lbs but that is not absolute, it is hearsay at best.
Maybe you got a Monday morning after a bowl of wheaties rifle.
Some barrel nuts are so loose you can remove them without the use of a second wrench.
Why did you remove the barrel nut?
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:11 PM
sithlord sithlord is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacticool22 View Post
The best thing is to buy the correct tool(s) made for the job. :-)
The best answer I have goten from S&W is 20 Ft. Lbs but that is not absolute, it is hearsay at best.
Maybe you got a Monday morning after a bowl of wheaties rifle.
Some barrel nuts are so loose you can remove them without the use of a second wrench.
Why did you remove the barrel nut?
Certainly not trying to take money out of your pocket; I had pipe and tools and attempted to make my own! The nut was certainly was heavily torqued...

As far as 'why', well, besides deep cleaning, I am considering replacing the handguard. I've had the 15-22 for a year now and I wanted to get to know 'her' better. If I do replace the handguard, I'll be picking up your handguard nut and wrench to be sure!

Of course, I had to send my 15-22 back to S&W (extractor blew out due to OOB.. ). So I tested the wrench on my wife's 15-22..

Last edited by sithlord; 03-24-2014 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:20 PM
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I am a firm believer in DIY first. I have the abilities and tooling (full machine shop with CNC) to some crazy DIY stuff. I was the first one who decided to make barrel nut wrenches to help other DIY'ers that didn't have certain skills.
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:23 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Break loose torque is always higher than the initial tightening torque. After time it can easily be double if no or lousy lube was initially used on the threads.
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:26 PM
kingfhb kingfhb is offline
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Originally Posted by tacticool22 View Post
I am a firm believer in DIY first. I have the abilities and tooling (full machine shop with CNC) to some crazy DIY stuff. I was the first one who decided to make barrel nut wrenches to help other DIY'ers that didn't have certain skills.

And they are the best! I've had two 15-22s and in turn, two sets of the tacticool22 tools (I sell them off after using them)... My first 15-22 was near impossible to get off even with the tools, but my second one came off with barely any torque at all. Same thing with the flash hiders.

I have seen the PVC versions and the plans for them on the web... but I would HIGHLY recommend the Tacticool22 tools. They are specifically designed for the job. Once inserted, the top of the tool is slotted so you can get a wrench on it.

Some guy at S&W was mad at his woman or something when he tightened my first one!

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Old 03-24-2014, 04:28 PM
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Yup, before Tacticool22 was selling his wrench we were using PVC wrenches to remove the barrel nut. Necessity is the mother of invention. There's a How-To in the Notable Thread Index here. We were making fake cans from PVC too. (ps. don't do that)

For $20 get the wrench. I did.

Last edited by ChattanoogaPhil; 03-24-2014 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:39 PM
sithlord sithlord is offline
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Originally Posted by ChattanoogaPhil View Post
Yup, before Tacticool22 was selling his wrench we were using PVC wrenches to remove the barrel nut. Necessity is the mother of invention. There's a How-To in the Notable Thread Index here. We were making fake cans from PVC too. (ps. don't do that)

For $20 get the wrench. I did.
Where do you think I started before I brought out the dremel and angle grinders! Was looking at those pages and reading everything I could.

Seen those PVC and flashlight suppressor vids too. I might have to take up residence in Missouri (if their new law is signed).. NFA without stamps... mmmmmmmm..
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