I decided to remove the barrel nut on my 15-22. Rather than purchasing one of the available tools, I made my own. Ok, I actually made 4 of them. In all cases, the barrel was clamped in a vice between two blocks of wood, one with a curved recess for the barrel, and the other flat.
The first two were schedule 40 PVC. Both broke all four teeth attempting to remove the barrel nut.
The third was out of 1" aluminium closet rod. I added a PVC insert that helped to both protect the barrel and provide a hex-head for an adjustable crescent wrench. I used PVC cement to attach the insert to the closet rod (perhaps not the best choice - maybe need to go to an epoxy or something else). Anyhow, on two different occasions, the barrel nut was stronger than the cement, in that the PVC now rotates independently inside the closet rod. It's still tight enough though that I can't twist the PVC by hand - only by adjustable crescent wrench.
The latest was 3/4" galvanized steel conduit. Using this and a pipe wrench, I was finally able to take off the barrel nut. However, the teeth on the conduit that hook to the barrel nut were bent afterwords (not terribly, but noticeably). There did not appear to be any loctite residue on the barrel nut (there was for the flash suppressor - a white dot present on two different rifles)
Now, I've read here that the barrel nut should be on to about 20 ft pounds of force, and that the schedule 40 PVC should be sufficient. So I'm curious as to why my barrel nut was on so tight, and whether I need the same level of torque when I replace it.
This is a newer (October 2013) 15-22. Most of the discussion re barrel nuts is from 2012 or earlier.
Thanks for any input/advice.