Problems with safety selector after Slidefire

ammodors · Sep 21, 2015

First, I'm an AR noob. I bought my M&P 15-22 a year or two ago and love it. It was my first .22 and first rifle.

I purchased the Slidefire 15-22 kit that includes the rapid fire stock, recoil enhancer muzzle and a new CMC 3.5lb trigger. I'm trying to install it all myself with no previous gunsmith experience. SFS M&P 15/22 Kit | Slide Fire® | Freedom Unleashed | Rapid Fire Rifle Stocks.

Here's how I broke it down: I removed the original grip (being sure to not loose the little springs and pins that came out) and removed the original stock. I pulled the pins holding the trigger and hammer stuff in place and all that came out. I then had to pull out the safety selector out in order for the new trigger group to go in place (I couldn't get it to slide down into place otherwise).

New trigger group in and pinned in place (using this CMC Triggers | CMCTriggers.com - Installation Instructions). I added the new Slidefire grip thingie that goes on in place of the original grip (putting the tiny spring and pins back in place). This is where it gets funky for me.

So the safety selector will not slide back in place without the hammer being locked back and going in on the "fire" position. Once in, I can rotate the safety from "safe" to "fire" like normal.

However, if I dry fire it to release the hammer, then I am unable to rotate the safety to "safe".

I haven't put the full Slidefire stock on or the upper yet because something just doesn't seem right. Shouldn't I be able to move the safety from safe to fire regardless of hammer position at this point?

Hopefully I'm explaining all that correctly. I'm confused and sure I've done something stupid wrong. Any ideas?

telero · Sep 21, 2015

You normally can't put the safety on unless it's cocked.

mrwilli · Sep 21, 2015

In my experience with my15-22, I replaced the trigger assembly with a CMC 3.5 and unless the hammer is locked back, I cannot rotate the safety from fire to safe.
I believe this is normal....

ammodors · Sep 21, 2015

Ok, perfect so that's normal.

But what about then if I dry fire and release the hammer. Then it will not move from fire to safe? The lever is not rotating - it's like I did something wrong with that little spring and pin that are blocking the safety from flipping from fire to safe (but yet it works fine when the hammer is back).

Same if I reassemble it. If I put the upper back on then the safety switch only rotates from fire to safe (and/or back) IF I pull back on the charging handle to load it.

Are you saying that's normal as well? What am I missing here?!?

AR-Getsome · Sep 21, 2015

ammodors said:
Ok, perfect so that's normal. But what about then if I dry fire - it will not move from fire to safe?

If the hammer is not cocked the selector will not be able to move from fire to safe. Its the same way with the AR15. The hammer needs to be cocked to be able to move the selector from fire to safe.

AR-Getsome · Sep 21, 2015

This is an AR15 lower. Same rules apply for the 15-22 as far as the safety selector goes for your question.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAQYk-6XvjA[/ame]

ammodors · Sep 21, 2015

Ok I get it now. I don't remember it functioning that way previously. Don't believe my HK 416 pistol .22 works that way either.

But after digging out my new and never fired AR 15, I see that it does the same thing (can't put on safe unless cocked). So yea that must be normal.

Good deal...all good now and "problem" solved! My mistake.

Thanks for the quick and friendly input all!

scooter123 · Sep 21, 2015

First, YOU SHOULD NEVER EVER DRY FIRE A RIMFIRE HANDGUN OR RIFLE ! ! ! . As for why, without a cartridge in place the firing pin strikes the support surface for the rim and this results in damage to both the firing pin AND the chamber in the barrel.

Second, while I don't have a 15-22 I do have AR15's in both 223/5.56 and 300 Blackout, both which were scratch builds by myself. On a standard AR15 if the hammer is not cocked you cannot move the safety selector from Fire to Safe. It's sort of a left brain Cocking Indicator, in that if you cannot engage the safety the weapon is NOT cocked and you'll have to charge the bolt before you can fire.

PS; NOBODY makes a snap cap for a rimfire firearm that is designed to permit dry firing, they are only for testing the load/ejection cycle. However, you can get something that permits you to safely dry fire your weapon every time you go out shooting. Pick up your brass and by inserting a fired case into the chamber with an undimpled portion of the rim under the firing pin you can dry fire once or twice without doing any damage to the firearm. However, you do need to change out that empty case every one or two hammer strikes or you can distort the head of the case enough to jam it in the chamber.

AR-Getsome · Sep 21, 2015

I have dry fired my M&P 15-22 and M&P 22 many times. I have never had an issue. They all shoot fine with thousands of rounds fires without any issues. I will be putting a few hundred if not a thousand more down range tomorrow. You will find that many of the M&P 22 owners here on this forum have done the same also without issues.

RedNeck Jim · Sep 21, 2015

ammodors said:
Good deal...all good now and "problem" solved! My mistake. Thanks for the quick and friendly input all!

You gotta learn somehow, so don't sweat it. I too find the AR safety extremely odd. First, like you found out, I think it odd you can't safe an uncocked gun. Secondly, the safe & fire position is backward to me. I'd prefer the positions to be switched, so that it would act like a water valve... where if the safety (valve) were pointed down the barrel (water pipe) the gun (water) could fire (flow) & when the safety(valve) was positioned 90 degrees from the bullet (water) path, that the gun (water) wouldn't fire (flow).

Maybe I'm an idiot, but it just seems backward to me & I just have to remember it works opposite what I'd expect.

Shooting Padre · Sep 21, 2015

It's normal. When issued the M-16 (AR15) in the Air Force, we placed the barrel in the clearing bin, released the bolt, put the selector on fire and pulled the trigger. The selector the would not return to fire, but seeing as the bolt was forward on an empty chamber, the trigger pulled, it was safe. The 15-22 works the same way. That's why its the coolest .22 out there, it acts just like it's big brother. You are doing just fine.

CrazyFingers · Sep 24, 2015

scooter123 said:
First, YOU SHOULD NEVER EVER DRY FIRE A RIMFIRE HANDGUN OR RIFLE ! ! ! . As for why, without a cartridge in place the firing pin strikes the support surface for the rim and this results in damage to both the firing pin AND the chamber in the barrel.

If you measure your 15-22's firing pin when fully extended, you will find that when struck by the hammer it does not extend far enough to make contact with the breach face.

scooter123 said:
Second, while I don't have a 15-22

Oh, well, nevermind then.

This has been discussed to death on this forum.

It is perfectly safe to dry-fire a 15-22.

It will not damage the rifle.

Rob1 · Sep 24, 2015

HI OP,

IF you decide you don't like the slide-fire set up you could always ship it to me in merry ole England.....

I'll cover your costs

Rob

Problems with safety selector after Slidefire

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