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M&P 15-22 - Factory Handguard into Free Float?

Hagerman

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This is my first post, and I have a question about the Factory Handguard on the M&P®15-22 SPORT™ M-LOK™ CA COMPLIANT. I apologize for any errors in advance, I'm new and I do not know all the names of gun parts, abbreviations, etc. in the community.

Anyway, on to the question. I was looking into getting the 15-22 as a beginning rifle to train for the AR Platform and came across this site about AR Handguards. They claimed that Free Floating Handguards would provide better accuracy opposed to the standard factory handguard.

"The accuracy of the free floating hanguard comes from the fact that the handguard doesn’t touch the barrel – it is mounted directly to the upper receiver. This allows the barrel to “float” and gives better harmonics, resulting in slightly better accuracy.

The accuracy difference is especially evident when using grips or bipods on the handguard. When you rest a rifle on a bipod that is attached to the barrel (or a drop-in handguard) the bipod will create force that can slightly warp the barrel. This small amount of warping can provide fairly significant accuracy issues down the range. But with a free float handguard, you can put all kinds of force on the hanguard and it won't affect the barrel whatsoever."
- From Website

The Factory Handguard on the 15-22 is not a Free Floating Handguard. I know the 15-22 is not an AR but the whole accuracy thing should still apply to both, right? Now I also know all about the conversion kit you can get to swap out the Factory Handguard with a Free Floating Handguard... but I would like to keep the Factory Handguard in place. To be honest, I am a little afraid of trying to preform the switch and messing something up major.

I watched the videos of people taking off the Factory Handguard and swapping it, and It got me wondering about one of their steps. I need to show this picture in order to get across what I am trying to say.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=365880&stc=1&d=1541732068
(Not my picture, found it on google then edited it.)

In this picture, I have highlighted in red the "nose?" that is attached to the front of the Factory Handguard and goes around the barrel. From my knowledge, which isn't much, this is the point where the barrel is attached to the handguard - and also the point where the force from "grips or bipods" would affect the barrel, causing it to slightly warp.

In the video I watched, the "nose?" was taken off before then proceeding to use a PVC Pipe/barrel wrench thing to take off the Factory Hanguard. So finally to my question, sorry it took so long.

If I just take off the "nose?" highlighted in red in my attachment, will the Factory Handguard act like a Free Floating Handguard? It seems like the barrel is no longer touching the Handguard... Or is there more going on by the upper receiver (handguard nuts?) that adds warping to the barrel?

I hope that I explained everything right. Thanks in advance.
 

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That nose is not in contact with barrel.

The handgaurd is free floating with or without the nose.
 
Go ahead and remove the "nose", then there will not be any possibility of the barrel being influenced by the handguard. I have installed metal free float hand guards on my 15-22's because the extra weight up front makes the rifles feel better, not because the barrels were touching.
 
That nose is not in contact with barrel.

The handgaurd is free floating with or without the nose.

Depends when the handguard cap "nose" was made.

I have a few 15-22s and some were not really touching while some were almost press fit on to the barrel.

Since I use all my 15-22s as suppressor hosts, 1st thing I do when I get them is remove the muzzle device and replace the crush washer with an o-ring. Since i'm there I also remove the handguard cap to have a truly free floated barrel.

I have one 15-22 that has seen over 130k rounds, all with the cap removed with no ill effects.
 
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The 'nose' SHOULDN'T touch the barrel during normal conditions, some do though because of manufacturing inaccuracies.

If shooting from a bipod its possible to flex the handguard to the point that the 'nose' will touch and therefore influence the barrel/point of impact.

As the 15-22 has a plastic receiver the barrel is extremely susceptible to being moved from a fairly light touch/not much pressure.

I have, and would recommend removing the 'nose' of the handguard.
 
You can either remove the "nose" permanently or remove, enlarge the opening a little with a drill step bit, reinstall. Seriously doubt you'll see any improvement in accuracy. With ARs, perhaps the "placebo" effect kicks in, however, a freefloat handguard doesn't really increase accuracy unless you're firing at extended distances and resting the handguard on an object such as a rest, bipod, sandbag, etc. Never seen a difference when firing free-hand. !5-22's are great little carbines but totally unnecessary to work your way up to an AR. If that's your goal, take the money you'd invest in the 15-22 and apply it to a higher quality AR than what you otherwise might purchase.

Removing the human factor, accuracy will be equal to the sum of the weapon's parts. To me, the foundation is the barrel. I would consider an upper tier firearm and accessories if I were engaging targets at distances exceeding 300 meters. Though we all have opinions and this topic is a bit subjective, this is a decent article for us couch-snipers. Top 5 AR-15 Upgrades to Shoot Tighter Groups | Primary Arms Blog

Welcome to the forum.
 
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My rifle became impressively more accurate with the removal of the end cap. Prior to removal I found it took very little pressure to make it contact the barrel.
 
Whether or not accuracy is affected by contact with the fore end 'cap', I can't say for sure. I just prefer to have zero contact with the barrel when ever possible on all of my long guns. Here, I simply removed the flash hider, slid the end cap off, used a cutting blade on a Dremel, removed the center portion that contacts the barrel, and re-installed everything. Took about a half hour from start to finish.

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So, how do you remove the “end cap”?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So, how do you remove the “end cap”?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's 4 little tabs at like the 2-5-7-11 o'clock areas on the end cap. You can see them where they clip onto the handguard. Just use a small screw driver or a punch and slightly push them out one at a time and a little bit at a time. The end cap will pop right off. Easy peasy. You will have to remove the muzzle device if you want to slip the end cap completely off of the barrel.
 
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