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Smith & Wesson M&P Pistols All Variants of the Smith & Wesson M&P Auto Pistols


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  #1  
Old 03-19-2011, 11:21 PM
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Default Range Day....Same Problem..

Greetings Everyone...

Was at the range today with the MP 45 FS. Had a great time, gun fired great! No hang ups, stove pipes, accuracy was great when I did my part.

So... whats the problem? The pin that holds the Locking Block works out during firing. It does not come all the way out, the Take Down Lever keeps it in.

When you field strip the pistol, you must push the lever just a bit so that it clears the pin when you put it back together.

Major Issue? I don't think so. I will leave it as is, as it does not seem to effect the operation of the pistol. It is a great shooting pistol!

Best

Bob
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:08 AM
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Glad you are enjoying your M&P. Sometimes pins "walk" out -- which they shouldn't.

Probably not worth sending the gun to Springfield -- although S&W would pay for shipping and arrange some sort of repair.

You probably already thought of this, but I can think of two easier things that might work: first, give S&W a call and ask for a new pin (this pin can be knocked all the way out from the other side using a 1/8" punch). The new pin will be cost free and will probably stay in.

Second, you could put a tiny drop of a mild adhesive -- maybe silicon -- in the hole or on the side of the pin to hold it in. You generally don't need to remove this pin unless you are installing Apex parts or accomplishing some sort of repair, but it could be knocked out if necessary. But I wouldn't use any strong adhesive or anything that might mar or melt the plastic of the gun.

Good luck with it.

Last edited by S&W Rover; 03-20-2011 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 01:15 AM
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Are talking about the front coil pin? The one the takedown lever rotates down and butts up against during disassembly?

If so, the pin should not "walk" (neither should the same pin located in the rear, holding the sear housing in place).

However, the front coil pin should stick out on the left side of the frame, about even with the part of the frame that is thickest toward the front, so it can act as a "stop" for the takedown lever. This prevents the takedown lever butting up against the frame during disassembly and damaging it.

A couple years ago S&W apparently received some slightly out-of-spec coil pins. The current ones are a revised part and can be replaced if they won't remain fixed in the frame under recoil. They'll replace it for free under warranty and pay for shipping both ways, you know.
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Last edited by Fastbolt; 03-20-2011 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:32 AM
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If we are talking about the pin under the takedown lever, that goes through the center of the block, I gave you some bad advice (watch out for bad advice on the internet!). That pin anchors the trigger spring and cannot just be removed/replaced, as I had suggested. You would need to push a temporary replacement pin in from the other side right behind it as you move it out to the left, so that the spring and other parts stay in place, then replace it the same from the left with one that fits better while not letting the spring come off.

But, if we are talking about the roll pin (aka coil pin) that is just forward of and below takedown lever, that can be replaced very easily by using a 1/8" punch and pushing it out, then inserting the new one. My other suggestion -- just calling S&W to get a new one (hopefully one that is sized better) should work fine.

Or, as Fastbolt suggests, simply call S&W and tell them the problem and they will send you a shipping label -- and fix it for free.

Last edited by S&W Rover; 03-20-2011 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:06 AM
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Here ya go. Coil pin projects enough from the left side to the frame so the take-down lever hits it when open. Note the notch on the takedown lever.



-- Chuck
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Old 03-20-2011, 03:37 PM
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Thanks everyone....

I will call S&W and see if they will send a new one or if i need to send it in.

Chuck, good shot, but the pin i mean is the one directly under the lever.

This is a great forum...


Thanks again!


Bob
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Old 03-20-2011, 04:00 PM
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Okay, if you're talking about the headed trigger pin, let S&W handle it.

It can be a bit tricky the first few times to align the slide stop lever assembly, trigger bar assembly and the trigger return spring when inserting that pin.

The assembly pin provided to armorer's (in the polymer pistol toolkit) makes it a bit easier, but it still takes some practice to easily capture the trigger return spring with the assembly pin, and then transfer it to the trigger pin (and not have the rear of the spring fall off the trigger bar while doing it ).
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Old 03-20-2011, 09:50 PM
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If it is the headed pin the trigger return spring is anchored by, the spring should be holding it in place. There is a groove in the middle of the pin that the spring loop should drop into when assembled. There is a remote possibility the spring was never centered properly and is not dropping into the slot.

You might remove the slide and look at the spring to pin interface. If not in the slot the tip of a knife might shift it a few thousandths so it goes in.

If not S&W will take care of it at no cost to you.

One other very remote possibility is the pin was never grooved and slipped through the quality inspection system.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:30 AM
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Thanks Everyone....

I did check the spring, it is in the groove. I will be calling S&W and letting them know of this.

I will let them take care of it, if I mess with it, and "screw" it up, I will be more upset!

Rather, let the pros take care of it. Despite this, the gun seems to operate fine, just a minor thing. grrrr!!!

Thank You All Again!

Bob
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