Help! I am trying to remove my extractor and I can't get this darn solid pin out. I have already broken 2 punches (my beloved Starrett...). Tried my starter punch, it actually flattened it. Have it soaking in penatrating oil. Heat maybe? I am going from the top down as the pin is protruding 1/16" on the bottom side and is equally below flush on the top. Any suggestions?

POTS:

You're doing it right - the starter should be a short punch, but needs to be a little smaller than the hole ( ) and long enough to clear the top of the slide. Still a bear, I'm told....

(I'm going from Randy's video - I've not tried it yet. Yet....)

I would try some Kroil, just for the heck of it. I don't think that S&W uses Loctite, and it shouldn't need heat. (If you want to try heat, keep it real cool .)

Check Randy's video if you can find it - I can't find the URL right now. "Randy Lee" and "Apex" and "Extractor" would be the keywords I'd try first.

(That's the ONLY thing I miss from a PPS40 I had. The extractor was held in by a sort of push-button thing. Nothing to it at all.... Unfortunately, it required a course in magic to put it back .... Well, almost.... You really had to be careful.)

Regards,

__________________
Stu.

Problem solved! Just took a bigger hammer. I will be using a roll pin to replace it.

POTS:

Great....

A roll pin might work.... Might be a size issue, though.... I thought that hole was tapered too.

Just be careful.

Really a great "what were they thinking?" exercise. You really should yank an extractor to fully clean it once in a while....

(Well, in at least this gun.)

Regards,

__________________
Stu.

Got a specific punch?

My ACE extractor has been sitting here for a month our more 'cuz I can't get the pin out...

-- Chuck

I took my broken Starrett 1/16" and ground the tip down so that it would move the pin about half-way then I hit the snot out of it with a 4lb hammer!

As mentioned you need 2 punches, one as short as possible just to start it with and another just long enough to get it all the way out. The starter should be about .200" long and the finisher should be about 5/8-3/4" long. And remember, it has to come out top to bottom and installed bottom to top. The hole is not tapered but the top hole is a couple thousandths smaller than the bottom hole.

Yes, top to bottom to remove. I replaced it with a 5/64" roll pin, 1/2" long. No issues after the first 100 rounds. Roll pins are cheap enough so get several and you can replace it whenever you remove the extractor for cleaning.

Can anybody recommend brand / model of punches they used to get the extractor pin out? Never have broken so many punches on a gun than I have on this M&P 40

they're not cheap, but they're manufactured in the USA...Starrett. my set is the S 565, 8 punches. if they won't do the job i don't know what will.

The OP (9 years ago!) said his Starrett punch wasn't up to the job either. I'd send the M&P 40 back to S&W, have it repaired under S&W's lifetime service policy, and have them use up their punches at no cost to you.

__________________
What, me worry?

Appreciate the input and help.

I took one of my broken punches and put in the lathe than set back the taper. Was able to drive out the pin.

Attached Images

IMG_20200411_120122.jpg (136.4 KB, 29 views)