I looked at a M&P 9c at a gun shop recently. I locked the slide to the rear, but was unable to use the slide release to return it back. It was just so stiff that my small hands could not work the release. Is this something is common on the M&P pistols, or was that just a one time thing with a brand new gun? Is this something that works itself out with age/use? I do have small, weak hands, but I've never had such a problem with a slide release before - not to that extent. Maybe it's just me. I've been wanting to try the M&Ps really bad, but this incident made me hesitant. Obviously, I didn't make the purchase, but I'm still considering it.
M&P Slide Release Question
- Thread starter Tory415
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Lee in Quartzsite
Member
It was never designed as a "Slide Release"...it is specifically a "Slide Stop". To release the slide grab it on the top and pull it to the rear and let it go. If you prefer a gun with a "Slide Release" buy another gun.
This is another one of those "standard lectures" to new combat tupperware shooters.
1. Read Lee's post. The manual of arms is load from an open slide and slingshot the slide to close.
2. If there were a loaded magazine in it, it would be much easier.
3. After a lot of use, it gets even easier.
4. Lock that sucker open on an empty mag and you are going to struggle to close it. Remove the mag and slingshot it, and it is SO easy.
1. Read Lee's post. The manual of arms is load from an open slide and slingshot the slide to close.
2. If there were a loaded magazine in it, it would be much easier.
3. After a lot of use, it gets even easier.
4. Lock that sucker open on an empty mag and you are going to struggle to close it. Remove the mag and slingshot it, and it is SO easy.
Jyezahn
US Veteran
There are multiple threads on this topic. Many will echo the above statements, many will echo mine below. In the end, it's your personal preference that matters, not ours.
If you want to use it as a slide release, you can do that with no issues. Pretty much all of them are tight when brand new. If you use both thumbs the first few times, it will work itself out. Or you can take a small file and ever so slightly wear the catching edge of the lever. There's nothing wrong with that at all, and you'll soon have no problem using one thumb to manipulate the lever.
kodiakpb
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As Lee stated, it is a Slide Stop. To release the slide on a full mag, you power stroke it as Lee mentioned, or sling shot it.
Also, if you choose to slam the slide forward on an empty chamber by using the slide stop, don't do it to a gun you do not own...it's bad form. Ride the slide forward on an empty chamber.
OIC! Thanks everyone for the much needed info! I was pretty concerned about it. I was thinking it must just be me, because I hadn't heard of anyone else having such a problem. I just wanted to make sure. I'd hate to get a gun that I'm not strong enough to operate correctly, or one that's just defective. Thanks again!
Rastoff
US Veteran
One more thing. It will be a little more difficult on the compact models. They have stronger recoil spring due to the smaller slide. Thus, there is a little more pressure on the slide stop when the slide is locked back.
As some have stated here most of these issues will fix themselves as you use the gun. In my case with my shield, even if I power stroked the gun, I had to manually pull the slide stop lever down at the same time or the gun would never go into battery after a reload.
I found that I actually had to widen the slide stop by using two needle nose pliers. The slide stop was so tight that it would stick up even after I removed the slide with no magazine inserted. The spring that was designed to push it down and keep it down was not strong enough because the slide stop was too tightly pinching the frame. Once I had loosened it up a little bit, the slide stop functioned normally. It's possible that the slide stop on this particular gun was also pinching the frame.
I found that I actually had to widen the slide stop by using two needle nose pliers. The slide stop was so tight that it would stick up even after I removed the slide with no magazine inserted. The spring that was designed to push it down and keep it down was not strong enough because the slide stop was too tightly pinching the frame. Once I had loosened it up a little bit, the slide stop functioned normally. It's possible that the slide stop on this particular gun was also pinching the frame.
SoCalDep
Member
The constant statements that the slide lock/slide release wasn't designed as a slide release are so ridiculous as to be almost comical, if people weren't so serious.
Look on this controversial little lever. You will note serrations on the top portion of said lever...Such that might help one to push down, thus RELEASING the slide.
As I have said several times. This lever releases the slide if it was locked to the rear. It can be tough at first but will work in. In addition, it just so happens to be located in the same place and performs the same function as the slide release John Browning designed into the 1911 which is, without a doubt, designed to be pushed down to release the slide.
A car manufacturer can call the gas pedal a foot-articulated acceleration facilitation device, but it's a frigin' gas pedal.
I know there is contention as to whether the slide lock/slide release should be used to release the slide, but imagine for a moment, that you have been shot in your support arm and have lost it's use, as happened to one of my partners in a shooting. Yes, you could try to find something to hook the rear sight or ejection port to rack the slide. You could pay money or modify the gun to make this easier...While you are bleeding and hurting... Or you could press a little ambidextrous lever that has been conveniently placed on two sides of the gun because the manufacturer thought it important enough to provide to lefties (or people shot in their right arm as well) for their use as well.
The statement that the lever was never designed to release the slide is wrong. Plain...Simple...Wrong.
Look on this controversial little lever. You will note serrations on the top portion of said lever...Such that might help one to push down, thus RELEASING the slide.
As I have said several times. This lever releases the slide if it was locked to the rear. It can be tough at first but will work in. In addition, it just so happens to be located in the same place and performs the same function as the slide release John Browning designed into the 1911 which is, without a doubt, designed to be pushed down to release the slide.
A car manufacturer can call the gas pedal a foot-articulated acceleration facilitation device, but it's a frigin' gas pedal.
I know there is contention as to whether the slide lock/slide release should be used to release the slide, but imagine for a moment, that you have been shot in your support arm and have lost it's use, as happened to one of my partners in a shooting. Yes, you could try to find something to hook the rear sight or ejection port to rack the slide. You could pay money or modify the gun to make this easier...While you are bleeding and hurting... Or you could press a little ambidextrous lever that has been conveniently placed on two sides of the gun because the manufacturer thought it important enough to provide to lefties (or people shot in their right arm as well) for their use as well.
The statement that the lever was never designed to release the slide is wrong. Plain...Simple...Wrong.
I feel a need to jump into the nomenclature battle myself. JMB originally called that particular widget a "slide stop" because it was what kept the slide assembly from flying off the front of the frame. It also, locked the slide open when the magazine was empty.
It doesn't matter a hoot which way you allow the slide to go forward, so long as it works for you. BTW, those who agrue that the slide must be pulled to the rear do practice releasing the slide one handed on a regular basis don't you?
It doesn't matter a hoot which way you allow the slide to go forward, so long as it works for you. BTW, those who agrue that the slide must be pulled to the rear do practice releasing the slide one handed on a regular basis don't you?
George9
Member
You can clean up the stamped part with the slide off the gun with a diamond stone 1000 grit cloth or whatever you want fire 2000 rounds and use the slide release will smooth it out or do as I said with out removing any orher parts then the slide .. It in fact works like any other gun after it's smoothed out some.. My M&P FS .45 now works slick as my 1911's... Your choice how fast you want it to work right.. Wish S&W took more time in smoothing all there stamped parts out from the factory.. Wife's LC9 had the same issues with the slide release.. Yes I said it RELEASE!!!! Shame on you S&W. Are you outsourcing your manuals too to save money? George
Yep, I'm just going to have to buckle down and work this out.
Absolutely! You don't? How do you plan on clearing an FTE one handed? Fiddling with the slide stop sure ain't gonna do it.
sent from my Commodore64 & acoustic modem
modraker
Member
OP, it's a Slide Lock and not a Slide Release -- that's true. The ease of unlocking the slide is dependent on how powerful the recoil spring is -- that's true too.
After about 1500 rounds, the whole gun will be loose enough to where it won't matter what you call it or how you use it.
After about 1500 rounds, the whole gun will be loose enough to where it won't matter what you call it or how you use it.
TahoeDust
Member
So...if one would like to expediate the process of making the slide release (yeah, I said it) easier to use, where exactly would the file/sand/buff?
modraker
Member
Surface removal is something I've considered to be a slippery slope when it comes to guns. The way I see it, you can take off just enough to make the gun better or you could take off too much to make the gun malfunction.
When it comes to the slide release (there I said it too), I feel the recoil spring has to weaken more than anything else in order to make it easier to operate.
shawn mccarver
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Often, with the M&P, it will close on its own if a fresh loaded mag is inserted vigorously. Don't depend on it, but a nice unintended feature nonetheless.
Jyezahn
US Veteran
Just release it manually a few times by using two thumbs to pull it down. It'll smooth the edge just enough to allow one thumb manipulation. Otherwise, one or two strokes of file/sand on the part of the stop/release that touches the catch on the slide should do the trick. Don't change the profile of the surfaces, just take the edge off. It doesn't take much, which is why I recommend the first way.
George9
Member
Where the slide release contacts the slide! Yes it's a stamped part and you need only smooth out the stamping at this point. Only remove the roughness with a few strokes file stone paper then buff if you like too, lube try it out.. May need more work may not. Mine runs as smooth as my 1911's do as do my other guns.. George
UncaGrunny
US Veteran
Very interesting thread... I was actually lectured by the salesman at the store while shopping for my M&P9 when I tried to release the slide by thumbing the stop. He claimed it would lead to premature wear of the stop & "only idiots in the movies do that."
My large-caliber handgun experience being long-ago and far away, I simply accepted what he said, but I've used the stop release on my .22LR HD Mil for many a year without an issue - & it was Dad's gun before it was mine, dating originally from his post-service days the 40's. He taught me both methods - slingshot and thumb-drop - when he introduced me to pistol shooting when I was a kid.
My large-caliber handgun experience being long-ago and far away, I simply accepted what he said, but I've used the stop release on my .22LR HD Mil for many a year without an issue - & it was Dad's gun before it was mine, dating originally from his post-service days the 40's. He taught me both methods - slingshot and thumb-drop - when he introduced me to pistol shooting when I was a kid.
