broke my CORE

[microgunner]

So, I received my new M&P9 CORE a couple weeks ago and today I received my Trijicon RMR.
Removing the hex head screws holding the cover plate on the pistol's slide proved troublesome.
First screw came out cleanly but with considerable effort. Unfortunatly, the second screw head stripped out.
S&W Lock-Tited the screws in pretty good.
Called S&W Service and they are e-mailing me a return label free of charge.
Hope to get it back soon and start testing the new rig out.
Here's photos of the Trijicon RMR.

[Dos Cylindros]

Well that sucks, but why not just get an easy out and remove it yourself. Then have Smith send you a replacement screw. I believe with the RMR you use the screws that come with the RMR to mount it. I see no reason to send this to Smith and be without the gun when this is an easy self fix.

[scooter123]

Originally Posted by Dos Cylindros

Well that sucks, but why not just get an easy out and remove it yourself. Then have Smith send you a replacement screw. I believe with the RMR you use the screws that come with the RMR to mount it. I see no reason to send this to Smith and be without the gun when this is an easy self fix.

Yeah, right. These are likely either # 4 or # 6 screws. The smallest EZ Out I've ever seen was for a 1/4 inch screw and they do not work at all well at this small of a diameter. For a #4 or #6 screw the only thing I've found to work is to use a prick punch and a hammer to drive the screw out. That will work well as long as the screw isn't locktited in place, with locktite all bets are off on getting it out without resorting to drilling and re-tapping the hole.

For future reference the common locktites can be released by exposure to heat in the 150 to 170 degree F range. BTW, this is low enough that any heat treat will not be effected. What you do is set your part in an oven set on warm, heat it up for about 45 minutes, then put on some heavy leather gloves so you don't burn yourself and remove the screws. Note, work fast or plan on re-heating your slide between screws. This may even work to use a prick punch to drive out that stripped head screw but it will be rather time consuming because you'll have to re-heat every thing when it cools enough to start jamming the screw again.

PS, a prick punch is pretty much as it sounds. Bascially you take a center punch and sharpen it to a needle with a 20 degree included angle on the point. Then you go towards the perimeter of the screw head, hammer in a deep prick dimple then angle the punch to drive the screw head in a circle.

[microgunner]

I thought about an easy out but the allen wrench size is 5/64s. Pretty small. Do they make an easy out to fit a 5/64ths opening?

I also thought about heating the screw with a soldering iron but the cover being removed is made of plastic and I didn't want to melt it. Now I wish I'd melted it.

I've thought about cutting a slot in the screw head but decided to just let S&W deal with it.
I own plenty of handguns to carry so I'm not in too big a hurry.

[MichiganScott]

Originally Posted by microgunner

I've thought about cutting a slot in the screw head but decided to just let S&W deal with it.
I own plenty of handguns to carry so I'm not in too big a hurry.

Sounds like the smart thing to do.

[jstanfield103]

Best just to let S&W do it and not hurt the gun by mistake.

[microgunner]

Received the pistol back from S&W CS testerday.

They fixed the problem by cutting a slot in the screw head and then used a flat head screwdriver to remove the screw.

Exactly what I was going to do if I had done it myself.

They returned the damaged parts along with replacing them with brand new parts.

Fast turn around and S&W paid shipping both ways.

Great customer service.

Thanks S&W.

[M&Pete40c.]

So what you're saying here is S&W corrected your mistake for free??

[microgunner]

Originally Posted by M&Pete40c.

So what you're saying here is S&W corrected your mistake for free??

Basically, but thread locking the screws on a part your bound to remove (why else buy the CORE) and then using tiny hex head screw sockets doesn't make sense to me.
If I'd heated the screw heads to break the thread locker loose it would've melted the plastic CORE cover.
So, I think there's a shared blame here.

[shawn mccarver]

It is unclear to me why Hex screws are so popular. I never met one that did not strip out the head, and I never met a Hex wrench of any brand or type that doesn't become rounded and useless after just a few uses.

Why are not Torx screws used more, if designers feel the need for something other than an ordinary screw? Are Hex screws just the cheapest thing out there? Is that it?

Ridiculous. Sorry for your trouble.

[microgunner]

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

It is unclear to me why Hex screws are so popular. I never met one that did not strip out the head, and I never met a Hex wrench of any brand or type that doesn't become rounded and useless after just a few uses.

Why are not Torx screws used more, if designers feel the need for something other than an ordinary screw? Are Hex screws just the cheapest thing out there? Is that it?

Ridiculous. Sorry for your trouble.

I'm with you there. I'd pay the extra 50 cents for Torx head screws instead.

[microgunner]

Photos of the completed pistol. Just need a holster now which is proving the most difficult part.

[George9]

Very nice! Sorry for the difficulty you had but looks like it's going to be a blast to shoot! Best of luck! George

[microgunner]

Thank you.

[Smiffer]

I am interested to see what holster you decide on.Will the holster be for competition or for EDC?

[microgunner]

It will for EDC and I've settled on the Bravo Concealmant FTT holster, I think.
They'll custom fit it for the suppressor sights.

Bravo Concealment · RTT Holster