|
|
11-10-2013, 12:02 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 262
Likes: 287
Liked 59 Times in 39 Posts
|
|
Apex kit for 9mm core
|
11-10-2013, 12:04 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Aurora, OH
Posts: 370
Likes: 26
Liked 91 Times in 58 Posts
|
|
Yes, and no its not hard to do.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
|
11-10-2013, 12:55 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
|
|
It's not hard to do, I did it. Just remember one thing. You do not have to remove the rear sights on the Core model to replace the USB. It is under the cover for the optical sight. There is a small metal cover with a spring underneath so be careful you don't lose it, the USB is there.
|
11-10-2013, 01:52 AM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fruitland Idaho
Posts: 5,076
Likes: 1,586
Liked 4,882 Times in 2,025 Posts
|
|
You'll need a T6 Torx bit for the sear block cover. (it's actually a T5 but I stripped out the T5 and so did a lot of others, you can tap the T6 into the screw to remove and reinstall it)
__________________
Minimize the variables
|
11-10-2013, 03:02 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 262
Likes: 287
Liked 59 Times in 39 Posts
|
|
Thanks! Should I lubricate it with anything while I have it taken apart?
|
11-10-2013, 08:16 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 74
Likes: 17
Liked 31 Times in 14 Posts
|
|
Surprised you'd want to change the stock trigger. I love mine, although it is slightly modified.
I polished the striker block and spring so there is pretty much no graininess. I absolutely love the break in the trigger. The take up is really the only thing that I think could be a lot better. I may decide to get an Apex trigger, only for the reduced take up.
I have the DCAEK in my 9c but still prefer my CORE trigger.
As far as lubing the parts, I'd keep the striker block dry or just a tiny dab. The rest, just use a little.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
11-10-2013, 07:44 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New England, USA
Posts: 4,470
Likes: 3,071
Liked 4,295 Times in 1,611 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwreck2
|
There are several video's on Youtube that walk you through the install process. It is very easy.
__________________
Dave
|
11-15-2013, 11:29 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 262
Likes: 287
Liked 59 Times in 39 Posts
|
|
Thanks for the input, I have read so many complaints on the trigger that I had just planned on doing it. Is the core trigger that much better than the standard triggers?
Do you just use regular gun oil on the inside of the gun or something else? are all brands the same when it comes to gun oil?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JColumbus
Surprised you'd want to change the stock trigger. I love mine, although it is slightly modified.
I polished the striker block and spring so there is pretty much no graininess. I absolutely love the break in the trigger. The take up is really the only thing that I think could be a lot better. I may decide to get an Apex trigger, only for the reduced take up.
I have the DCAEK in my 9c but still prefer my CORE trigger.
As far as lubing the parts, I'd keep the striker block dry or just a tiny dab. The rest, just use a little.
|
|
11-15-2013, 11:38 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 103
Likes: 11
Liked 10 Times in 10 Posts
|
|
Try not to lose the IL lock hole plug, like I did.
|
11-15-2013, 11:40 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southeast USA
Posts: 257
Likes: 51
Liked 56 Times in 43 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTana
It's not hard to do, I did it. Just remember one thing. You do not have to remove the rear sights on the Core model to replace the USB. It is under the cover for the optical sight. There is a small metal cover with a spring underneath so be careful you don't lose it, the USB is there.
|
Sweet. Did not know that...
|
11-16-2013, 12:05 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
|
|
Just remove the two screws holding down the optical sight cover and you will see a metal cap with a very small screw holding down one side.
|
11-16-2013, 03:45 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 262
Likes: 287
Liked 59 Times in 39 Posts
|
|
There are kits without the trigger for $30 less. Does it make a difference?
|
11-16-2013, 05:35 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 8,161
Likes: 3,623
Liked 5,211 Times in 2,174 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by shipwreck2
Thanks for the input, I have read so many complaints on the trigger that I had just planned on doing it. Is the core trigger that much better than the standard triggers?
Do you just use regular gun oil on the inside of the gun or something else? are all brands the same when it comes to gun oil?
|
Whether you like the trigger depends on whether you come from a 1911 background. As an old revolver shooter, I like it just fine stock.
Unlike a 1911, an M&P needs to run nearly dry: read your S&W manual. Slopping oil around inside the frame and striker area will make gunk and generate malfunctions. I use a touch of action lube wherever metal rubs metal. In our summer heat, oil runs off. Anything from action grease to transmission fluid will work as a lubricant, just put it sparingly where it belongs, and don't spray lube into the pistol.
__________________
Science plus Art
Last edited by OKFC05; 11-16-2013 at 05:37 AM.
|
11-16-2013, 08:13 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
|
|
Replacing the trigger was probably one of the hardest parts of the job. You have to knock the pin out of the old trigger to remove the trigger bar. Then knock the pin into the new trigger with the trigger bar. I polished up the trigger bar before I put it back in. I didn't like the feel of the hinged trigger. It just felt strange. I like the solid feeling of the aluminum trigger in mine.
|
11-17-2013, 05:27 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
I put the apex comp kit in both my 40 and core 9. the 40 is great but my core is not resetting the trigger.if you just rack and dryfire its great but hold the trigger and rack the trigger will not return half the time. use ammo and fire it it always will not reset. holding the frame side by side with the frame of the 40 the only thing i see diferent is the trigger bar flexes to the right and rubs the slide lock. thoughts?
|
11-17-2013, 08:04 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 22 Posts
|
|
If I were you I'd take it back apart and start over again. You must of missed something, check everything again. All it takes is one part crooked or not seated correctly to cause this to happen. I remember when I first did my 1911 trigger I didn't fire at first. Took it back apart and reassembled it and everything worked fine. You must of put most of it in correctly for it to fire, but I'd just start over again to be sure. One part that was also tricky for me at first was the trigger bar, seating in correctly into the sear housing took me a couple tries. Check these out and see if it helps you. Good Luck.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGc3XobKiAI
http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
Last edited by DanTana; 11-17-2013 at 08:07 PM.
|
11-20-2013, 05:53 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
|
thanks but i have had it apart more times than i can remember. for some reason it is not liking the core i am starting to work my way backwards and remove the new parts and it gets a little better. going to try swaping all the old parts back.
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|