Apex FSS trigger in M&P CORE safety doesn't work... help

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Hi, new here but need help.

Finally got the FSS and aluminum Apex trigger installed after much swearing. Problem: The safety lever doesn't pop out... the trigger can't move forward enough to allow it to extend. If I press hard forward on the trigger it will, but then of course the trigger pull is very heavy and then upon reset (the sear resets) the safety doesn't extend. Obviously this is an issue.

I'm hoping someone here has experience with this problem and knows what Apex recommends... stoning the front/pre-travel edge of the trigger, or removing a slight amount of material from the rear top edge of the trigger guard where the safety engages, or something else I haven't considered.

Thanks!

I have called and left a message at Apex but I really want to get this project completed... it's been three days (in shorter increments) and it's starting to look like a tornado hit my workspace. :D

Just a hint at how it's gone so far... I began by removing the rear sight. :rolleyes: M&P Core owners are facepalming right now... LOL
 
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I've got video but not processed/edited yet. But pics wouldn't really help... it's obvious what the problem is. The Apex trigger has a surface at the front that reduces pre-travel, bearing against the forward edge of the trigger cutout in the frame. The tolerances there are too tight and the trigger can't move forward enough to allow the Glock-type safety lever in the middle of the trigger to extend and bear against the rear upper edge of the trigger guard. One or the other is going to have to be stoned, I imagine. The trigger is hard anodized, so I don't really want to modify that... but I can't say I really want to modify the frame either. I'm GUESSING that Apex will advise stoning that forward edge of the trigger but I'd like confirmation from someone who has had the same issue.
 
Apparently this is not uncommon... Apex advises to modify the frame (according to this thread).

http://***************/mp-gunsmithing/37954-apex-fss-trigger-safety.html

Edit: Hilarious... the name of the MP Pistol forum is bleeped out by the forum software. Wonderful.
Here's the relevant bit:

I actually had the same problem, this is what Randy Lee sent me in an email:

The new trigger safeties seem a little longer and tow out more due to some frame variances we have seen lately. I would recommend removing a few thousandths from the trigger mortise in the frame (the front of the trigger limits take up as it rests against the front inside cut of the frame (if you remove the trigger and locking block, and look down you will see the rectangular cutout for the trigger). Use a small needle file or emery board to remove any excess flashing that can form when they mold the frame. This will allow the trigger to pivot forward and let the trigger safety move forward enough so that it snaps back into the blocking position.
Click to expand...

A few strokes of a needle file is all that was needed to make the safety function perfectly.
Click to expand...

Here's a vid of my problem.

Apex M&P FSS Trigger safety problem - YouTube
 
well I got it installed and running but it was a huge pain in the butt . Trigger feels great though. Cut pre-travel from 7/16" to 1/8", and total travel from 9/16" to 3/16" (approximately). I had to remove a small amount of plastic from the front edge of the trigger guard opening to allow the trigger safety to reset. just a few swipes with a diamond file took care of it. the worst part was installing the trigger spring 6 or 8 times. even with a slave pin it was very difficult on mine.

trigger pull weight was cut from about five and a half pounds to about four and three quarter pounds. I may try the OEM trigger spring to bring it down a little bit more .... after I work up the courage to reinstall the trigger spring again.
 
Personally, I am not interested in installing anything which, in order to work correctly, requires that I "modify the frame." I recommend that you return it to stock and get a refund.
 
Little late for that.

But the "modification" was maybe a couple thousandths, and would not be noticed by anyone who didn't know.
 
I had to do the same thing. Frame Shaving as Apex calls it. Not very happy about modifying the frame as I don't know if I can really return it to stock configuration. I also think the safety lever spring is a bit strong which becomes more noticeable with the lighter trigger.
 
I shaved mine without issue or concern. Nice pass with a lite emery cloth and it looks factory. No need to worry, and you can go back to stock without issue.

When was the last time you seen a guy out a charger on too of a engine without modifying the hood for the bell and air inlet? Same concept.
 
Put a couple hundred rounds through it tonight getting it sighted back in and getting a feel for the trigger.... it is like a different gun. the stock trigger I had to basically shoot it like a revolver and come all the way off the trigger during rapid fire. Now I find myself coming way forward off the trigger face for no reason. The reset is much better (I installed the RAM also) and the total travel is messing with me. By the end of the session I was back up to speed a bit.

I like it quite a bit. Thinking about having it quad ported now... dunno how much difference it will make with standard loads.
 
Can I ask the OP a question? I was about to do this same mod but now I probably won't. I don't want anybody sanding my frame! I also learned that for a defense CCW gun, you never want to modify the trigger period. Do you plan on using this for CCW? I can't find one person who says modifying a trigger for CCW is a good thing. I do own a Glock 34 and when I had a Pyramid ultimate trigger, the frame did not require sanding
 
No, this pistol is for competition/range only. The DCAEK would be a better choice for a carry gun, or stock trigger as you said.
 
marathonrunner said:
Can I ask the OP a question? I was about to do this same mod but now I probably won't. I don't want anybody sanding my frame! I also learned that for a defense CCW gun, you never want to modify the trigger period. Do you plan on using this for CCW? I can't find one person who says modifying a trigger for CCW is a good thing. I do own a Glock 34 and when I had a Pyramid ultimate trigger, the frame did not require sanding
Click to expand...

If you wanted to put in the FSS kit, then I recommend the polymer trigger, much easier to put in. For a carry gun, I would not recommend the FSS kit though. What I did is put a DCAEK (duty/carry) kit in and later swapped out the stock trigger for a polymer trigger. I am very happy with the results and the trigger is not too light.
 
marathonrunner said:
I also learned that for a defense CCW gun, you never want to modify the trigger period. Do you plan on using this for CCW? I can't find one person who says modifying a trigger for CCW is a good thing.[/ QUOTE]

Find one court case where a trigger job made a difference in the outcome.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
wow great thread...does the polymer FSS kit require frame modifying/removing a few thousands of material? If so this I will cross this trigger kit off my list. I was just about to order this kit also.
 
barry1me said:
wow great thread...does the polymer FSS kit require frame modifying/removing a few thousands of material? If so this I will cross this trigger kit off my list. I was just about to order this kit also.
Click to expand...

It may or it may not. If you determine that the trigger won't fit and function properly without removing material, and you're not comfortable doing it, I'm sure Apex will refund your purchase price.
 
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