I just got another Shield 9 after I traded my other one away and this brand new ones trigger is horrible compared to my last one (which was stock)
I noticed when dry firing when the trigger breaks the gun twitches to the right (in right handed) no matter where the trigger rests on my finger. If I switch hands to shoot left handed it twitches to the left.
I'm not a new shooter and I don't notice this when I dry for my Colt 1911.
I will say I've not shot this gun yet but I have done hundreds of rack the slide and shoot dry fire drills.
Is this normal to the striker design or is it me.

Generally, that's an indication of too much finger on the trigger. Since you're talking about a shield, a smaller gun than a 1911, you probably just need to adjust your grip. I had a similar problem when taking up with a Sig P938, except I was going the other direction, gripping too hard and flexing to the left.

This is what I was thinking but no matter which way I grip it or how much finger it still does the twitch. Absolutely no twitch with the 1911

Your experience is normal for your Shield pistol. Based on my Shield, I am going to guess you have a Shield pistol with a 7+ pound sear release and a long blacklash(motion after the sear breaks). This combination of very heavy trigger and long over travel after the break is causing the mischief. It is not created by how you hold the pistol or the location of your trigger finger. Interesting, I have been able to reduce this twitching effect with very steady grip using Weaver(or Isosceles) hold and by using the first joint of my trigger finger, sort of shortening my finger a little bit. You have quite correctly pointed out that this does not happen with properly set up 1911 trigger...proof that it not your technique creating the problem. The XDs is the same size but does not have this problem. Essentially, S&W is producing a pretty good little $400 gun with a garbage trigger. The good news is that good gunsmiths like
Burwell Gunsmith Burwell Gunsmithing- Your M&P specialist can fix this trigger for a reasonable rate if you don't mind paying shipping both ways. Sometimes a local gun store that you bought the gun from will handle the shipping and it may save $50 bucks. Alternatively, it will improve with use and dry firing and you may find it OK for a close quarter weapon.

This is one of several reasons I like the XDs better. It may have some creep in the trigger prior to sear release, which is manageable, but the XDs doesn't have that wicked blacklash of the Shield.

I believe this is due to the large amount of over travel. There are several ways to reduce the over travel, but the easiest is an Apex kit. I know many don't like that option. What do you expect from a $400 gun? Even so, if you want a great trigger, spend the money for a 1911.

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Freedom isn't free.

I'm not expecting 1911 level trigger out of it but I just don't remember my other shield doing this is why I was asking

Why trade? When I get a pistol with a trigger to my liking, I'm keeping it!!

After 2,000 rounds of dry and wet fire, the current Shield will probably settle down. Or you can pay APEX for a quicker fix.

Oh yes, the sideways twitch? You're doing it. Finger placement is critical on the lightweight Shield, especially compared to a single-action gun that weighs twice as much.

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Science plus Art

Remember, the firearm is not twitching. You are . . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

I traded a shield 9 crossbreed holster and a New Frontier AR for a USGI 1918 Colt 1911 that is about 1000sn older than my other USGI 1918 Colt 1911.

Depending on condition, that may have been a very good trade.

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Freedom isn't free.

It absolutely was. I traded that 1911 for a Wilson combat ar and a brand new shield

It is caused by excess over-travel and when dry firing you normally will always get the muzzle movement if you have 1/16 inch or more OT, unless you use a super strong two handed grip. Try shooting one handed and not having muzzle movement. Very hard to do if you have excess OT. Also the higher the trigger pull weight, the more the muzzle will move. Just because you see the muzzle movement when dry firing doesn't mean you do not have good trigger control or pull. If the muzzle doesn't move before the break, the bullet will be gone before you get to the end of the trigger movement, plus the gun will be recoiling from the gas pressure.

The muzzle movement is caused by the trigger pull weight pressure (example 6.5 pounds pull weight) building up to the break. When the break is reached nearly all of the 6.5 pounds of pressure is released. However the shooter is still pulling with that 6.5 pounds of rearward trigger pull pressure. The trigger movement speeds up after the sear or hammer is released (break point), and the trigger stops hard at the end of the trigger travel. This stopping hard/abruptly causes the muzzle to move. A properly timed trigger stop causes the trigger to stop moving right after the break, so the trigger doesn't have the distance to speed up, and thus stops the muzzle movement. A trigger stop makes the trigger pull feel very smooth (see video below).

For dry firing, I like to see my muzzle dead still through full OT, so all my pistols have an OT stop. It is nearly impossible to have a one handed trigger pull and maintain a dead still muzzle, unless you have under 1/16 inch of OT. My triggers have around 1/32 inch or less of OT, so with a correct trigger pull, my one handed pull to break maintains a dead still muzzle. Without an OT stop, the muzzle has some movement. Any trigger motion beyond the break is wasted motion, however excess OT should not effect POI if you use proper trigger control and grip.

Bob


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ye0fB0dHQoc

Bob, Wonderful Video and write up. Thanks for posting!

You also may want to check the model number and find out if it could be a MA compliant or other state that requires a 10lbs pull. Some other states (not required) are getting them so dealers have inventory. Have heard of a few....

How would I tell if it is Ma compliant. My old shield didn't have a qr code next to the sn and this one does

Look up the SKU on the S&W web site.
If it has the Mass compliant trigger pull weight, it should say so.
Mine did.

I just called and they said it wasn't