Your method for cleaning factory goop from new M&P Pistol internals?

Yankee Bill · Jan 25, 2015

Hope this isn't the wrong forum to ask, but I was just wondering what method & products some of you folks use to clean all the factory goop, (grease, metal particles), etc. from your new guns. Particularly the internals?

Do you guys flush the internals out with Gun Scrubber, Brake / Carb Cleaner or the like?

Thanks,
YB

Rastoff · Jan 25, 2015

My M&Ps didn't come with much on them except lubricant. So, I just did a field strip and clean like I would after any shooting outing.

I cleaned them all with WD-40 when I got them home. I treated my M&P 45 with Frog Lube and used Slip 2000 on my others. All of them are working great.

N4KVE · Jan 25, 2015

Brake cleaner for the slide, & barrel. 1/3 the price of a similar gun spray. GARY

BigCityChief · Jan 25, 2015

+1 on the Frog Lube.

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Rastoff · Jan 25, 2015

Be careful with brake cleaner. Some of them can be harmful to the polymer frame. Stick to gun cleaners and you won't have this issue.

RobzGuns · Jan 25, 2015

So I don't 'waste' a lot of cleaner doing a Flush, I start with running dry Q-Tips in all the grooves and crevasses. But then, I do this with post-range cleaning as well.

Starting with dry Q-Tips also keeps the residual powder and such (in this case, packing lube) from turning into 'mud' when I spray on the CLP.

Franklin · Jan 25, 2015

First thing I did with mine was put it in the dish washer, (not kidding)

RaginRog · Jan 25, 2015

RobzGuns said:
So I don't 'waste' a lot of cleaner doing a Flush, I start with running dry Q-Tips in all the grooves and crevasses. But then, I do this with post-range cleaning as well.

Starting with dry Q-Tips also keeps the residual powder and such (in this case, packing lube) from turning into 'mud' when I spray on the CLP.

I run a couple of small cleaning squares through it a swell before applying CLP.

Yankee Bill · Jan 25, 2015

Franklin said:
First thing I did with mine was put it in the dish washer, (not kidding)

I know some folks do it, but water just scares me

.

YB

Stratajema · Jan 25, 2015

Franklin said:
First thing I did with mine was put it in the dish washer, (not kidding)

Best of luck with the rust that has formed under your sights, especially under the rear sight and in the roll pins.

Jamie · Jan 26, 2015

I spray them down with WD40, rag, old tooth brush, compressed air.

photoman · Jan 26, 2015

MPro7 and RemOil works for me. Sometimes I'll add a little Wilson grease where the trigger bar and striker block meet.

MichiganScott · Jan 26, 2015

Shooter's Choice Bore cleaner cut 50/50 with Kroil on the slide, them wiped dry. I just wiped off the trigger mechanism the best I could with a dry rag.

I use the same Shooter's Choice/Kroil mix to clean off the carbon after shooting and to clean the bore. A couple of drops of oil where Smith recommends and I'm done. These have to be the easiest guns I own to clean.

Arik · Jan 26, 2015

Field strip, run some patches over the large area, second set of patches with some CLP and reasonable. Maybe 3 minutes worth of time

N4KVE · Jan 26, 2015

Rastoff said:
Be careful with brake cleaner. Some of them can be harmful to the polymer frame. Stick to gun cleaners and you won't have this issue.

I specifically said brake cleaner on the slide. But I did use brake cleaner on my entire Glock & had no problems. In that case I use the older brake cleaner that's harmful to the atmosphere. It's not flammable, or harsh on plastic. The newer "atmosphere safe" brake cleaner is highly flammable, & much harder on plastic. Spraying oil on grease does not clean anything. GARY

scattershot · Jan 26, 2015

Anybody here disassemble the pisol to clean out the firing pin/striker channel?

RobzGuns · Jan 26, 2015

scattershot said:
Anybody here disassemble the pisol to clean out the firing pin/striker channel?

The only pistol I've gone that far on was my 1911. Have not needed to do that with my Shield, XDM, Rugers, or Glocks.

scattershot · Jan 26, 2015

I haven't either, but I have read different opinions, some predicting dire consequences if you don't. To me, this should be done at the factory anyway.

Saudade · Jan 26, 2015

Field strip, a little Hoppe's, a few clean patches, some grease and good to go.

On my Rock Island 1911, I did a detailed stripped (down to the bare frame) to get all the preservative off (there was a lot!). That was more to see the guts of a 1911 than anything else. Haven't done it since.

As far as the striker assembly goes, I do take them out when cleaning, but only because it's easy. A quick wipe of the pin and back in it goes.

I clean mine far more often than they need but I enjoy it as well as the lingering aroma of #9 and a Rocky Patel.

N4KVE · Jan 26, 2015

Saudade said:
On my Rock Island 1911, I did a detailed stripped (down to the bare frame) to get all the preservative off (there was a lot!).

Mine too. I sell guns at a LGS, & I've never seen a new gun as gooped up as a Rock Island. But I've also never seen a rusty Rock Island. However, I have seen plenty of rusty brand new Kimbers on our shelves. Since it's all metal, I took it apart, & drowned it in brake cleaner. Then a lube job with Tetra gun grease. Excellent gun. GARY

Your method for cleaning factory goop from new M&P Pistol internals?

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