US1
Member
It seems to me that most shooters want the hear/feel the reset on a trigger, yet S&W makes their M&Ps without it.
Does anyone know why?
Does anyone know why?
Why doesn't the M&P have a "felt" reset
- Thread starter US1
- Start date
I would prefer the term pronounced reset most people don't feel it's necessary. The felt/audible reset thing I think was mainly from Glock owners who moved over to the M&P. If you want a felt reset get a RAM from APEX. What's more important to me is a very short reset. Over 90% of handguns don't have a pronounced reset. When you're shooting rapidly there's no way you will ever feel a reset anyway. It's main use would be for slow deliberate target shooting.
Beretta Dawg
Member
I think the no felt reset trigger references have to do with the older M&Ps. My Shield 9 has a very noticeable reset as has all of the full size and compact 9s that I have handled while shopping for my next. As I understand it, once the Shields came came out, all of the M&Ps transitioned to that type of trigger.
Rick_A
Member
I think if you're feeling for a reset, you're "doing it wrong." It's another unnecessary step that only slows you down. I find the loud snap on the trigger reset of some guns distracting.
MichiganScott
Member
My Smith & Wesson revolvers don't have a reset either except when the trigger is all the way forward.
What's your point?
What's your point?
I'm looking for a reset - I shoot mine just fine and I'm not looking to change anything.
I'm just wondering why an industry was built around this subject when the gun works like a dream out of the box.
I shoot 1911s (Single Stack USPSA), no reset, no problems.
As a matter of fact, when I used a Glock in Production (long time ago), I never waited to feel the reset or to hear an audible click to know when I needed to break the next shot - that was decided by my sight picture and everything else lined up in the process.
Thanks.
I'm just wondering why an industry was built around this subject when the gun works like a dream out of the box.
I shoot 1911s (Single Stack USPSA), no reset, no problems.
As a matter of fact, when I used a Glock in Production (long time ago), I never waited to feel the reset or to hear an audible click to know when I needed to break the next shot - that was decided by my sight picture and everything else lined up in the process.
Thanks.
Post 2013 M&P's have a notch on the trigger bar exactly the same as Gen 4 Glocks which gives a more pronounced reset. This has led to some Glock owners filing off the notch because it gives a heavier trigger pull. I believe the current CORE models still use the "H" stamped trigger bar because it doesn't have a notch and most owners will install an APEX RAM which is far superior to the notch.
Ofc.JL
Member
Yes, what the others said. Early M&P's did not have a very pronounced trigger reset. No one ever really needed a "reset" until Glock pistols came along and showed us a really hard reset. APEX did a bang up business selling their RAM trigger reset device. And it does work, as an LEO, I carry an early('09) .40FS all day. I installed a RAM and bingo, trigger reset. Much like a well tuned 1911.
Because of the little or no reset feel problem, and public opinion, when S&W started to design the Shield, they made sure that they engineered a reset into it. What they learned in that process, they re-visioned the newer M&P's with it's own version of the Shield trigger. You can tell if you have the newer trigger system on any M&P by looking inside the mag well and right on the trigger bar corner, closest to the trigger. New trigger system will have and "H" stamped into it. I do not know what they do to Mass. and Ca. compliant guns. Probably stiffer trigger bar return springs.
Anyway, if you don't have a newer M&P, and it does not have the 1911 style thumb safety, put an APEX RAM in it, and forget about it. The RAM will not fit the sear block on a thumb safety model M&P, although the sear housing can be replaced to accept the RAM, if you can find a spare sear housing.
There is another option for reset, but unless you are a pretty good pistol "wrench", I don't recommend the attempt. A person can reshape the trigger bar for a more distinctive reset, or put the newer "build up" slide stop in the pistol, and tune the trigger bar to work on it. And none of what I just spoke of is S&W accepted, so it's up to you on how you want to proceed. Sell your older pistol and get a new "H" model is the easiest. Good Luck.
Because of the little or no reset feel problem, and public opinion, when S&W started to design the Shield, they made sure that they engineered a reset into it. What they learned in that process, they re-visioned the newer M&P's with it's own version of the Shield trigger. You can tell if you have the newer trigger system on any M&P by looking inside the mag well and right on the trigger bar corner, closest to the trigger. New trigger system will have and "H" stamped into it. I do not know what they do to Mass. and Ca. compliant guns. Probably stiffer trigger bar return springs.
Anyway, if you don't have a newer M&P, and it does not have the 1911 style thumb safety, put an APEX RAM in it, and forget about it. The RAM will not fit the sear block on a thumb safety model M&P, although the sear housing can be replaced to accept the RAM, if you can find a spare sear housing.
There is another option for reset, but unless you are a pretty good pistol "wrench", I don't recommend the attempt. A person can reshape the trigger bar for a more distinctive reset, or put the newer "build up" slide stop in the pistol, and tune the trigger bar to work on it. And none of what I just spoke of is S&W accepted, so it's up to you on how you want to proceed. Sell your older pistol and get a new "H" model is the easiest. Good Luck.
My full size, made in April 2013, has a reset both with the stock arrangement as well as the Apex duty/carry kit it now has. My new Shield (bought a couple of weeks ago) also has the felt/audible reset-I'm putting the Apex duty/carry kit in it in the next day or two. Both are 9mm btw.
Bkreutz
US Veteran
On another note why do a lot of people say why do I have to pay around $100.00 to get an APEX trigger but no one ever says why do I have to pay around $100.00 to get rid of my plastic sights on my Glock. Go figure
There are a number of reasons why people go to an Apex trigger, I'll list why I did it.
1. I hate the two piece stock S&W trigger, felt mushy from the start.
2. Shorten the pre and post travel of the trigger, this is accomplished with the forward set sear kit. It changes the geometry of the trigger mechanism.
Since I shoot competition exclusively, #2 is the most critical reason, but #1 was the reason I first changed mine. I still have a stock trigger in my CC compact, but I find that I have extra Apex triggers lying around for some reason so I might put one in the compact as well. And as far as the "reset" thing, I never feel it except dry firing, I'm too busy shooting when I'm doing live fire.
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LOL... Interesting... All my Glocks, the oldest being a Gen2 G19 bought new back in '89, have factory sights (and triggers).On another note why do a lot of people say why do I have to pay around $100.00 to get an APEX trigger but no one ever says why do I have to pay around $100.00 to get rid of my plastic sights on my Glock. Go figure
I can hear & feel the reset on my 2 year old M&P40C when I listen for it. I don't listen for it. Never used it while shooting. I also have a full size M&P40 which is considerably older. No reset or so little I can't feel it.
I'll pretty much repeat what others have been saying already. I can feel and hear the trigger reset on my 40c. It is not as pronounced as the reset on my Glocks but I assure you...the only time you'll actually notice it is at home or in the gun shop.
I think the M&P triggers have a bad rap because of people switching from a different platform to the M&P. I was guilty of that too. The first time I dry fired one, I said: "no thanks, I'll stick to my Glock." What I have come to learn is that certain characteristics won't be noticed or given a second thought when you actually shoot one. I had the opportunity to finally shoot one several weeks ago. A few days after shooting it, I went to the gun shop asked to see one. I was actually surprised how good the trigger actually was, especially after reading several people complain about them. My prospective totally changed when I handled one in the shop after I fired it. I ended up buying it and plan on making it my new off duty carry and plan to buy more.
Sorry for the long-winded reply but after my experience with this issue, it's something interested in sharing.
I think the M&P triggers have a bad rap because of people switching from a different platform to the M&P. I was guilty of that too. The first time I dry fired one, I said: "no thanks, I'll stick to my Glock." What I have come to learn is that certain characteristics won't be noticed or given a second thought when you actually shoot one. I had the opportunity to finally shoot one several weeks ago. A few days after shooting it, I went to the gun shop asked to see one. I was actually surprised how good the trigger actually was, especially after reading several people complain about them. My prospective totally changed when I handled one in the shop after I fired it. I ended up buying it and plan on making it my new off duty carry and plan to buy more.
Sorry for the long-winded reply but after my experience with this issue, it's something interested in sharing.
Confusedacorn
Member
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On another note why do a lot of people say why do I have to pay around $100.00 to get an APEX trigger but no one ever says why do I have to pay around $100.00 to get rid of my plastic sights on my Glock. Go figure
Because of you ever say anything negative about a Glock the fanboys will descend upon you with twice the wrath of a woman scorned lol
All kidding aside, I have pretty positive resets (felt) in both my shield and full size 9. My lc9s however has more of a revolver style trigger and I've short stroked it once or twice practicing double taps (which is why my shield goes for car rides and my lc9s stays in the kennel)
