I have a pro in 40 that I installed the Apex trigger and sear kit from Brownell's. It shoots but I've always had reset trouble with rapid follow ups. I finally got it to a smith who looked it over and could only come up with it's probably a faulty trigger bar.

I am no expert but have been an armorer for about a decade for other manufacturers, and was lucky enough my job (we are a GLock job) let me go to a M&P class. I did the same Apex move on my Pro 9 and it has worked great.

Anyone else have a bogus trigger bar? When I say bogus, mine has a lot of side to side play. Much more than the 9 Pro has.

Now my headache is I'm guessing S&W won't touch my receiver due to the Apex parts...Am I correct?

Thanks

I'm no gunsmith, but since you are adroit at changing the parts, seems to me the obvious move is to return the .40 to stock to confirm the trouble is with the S&W parts, then return it to S&W under warranty. Sound reasonable? Just contact S&W for a free shipping tag.

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Science plus Art

Did it occur in stock form?

Did you remove the factory trigger from the factory trigger bar, in order to install the aftermarket trigger? If so, how do you know the trigger bar might not have been damaged in the process? They have an intentional bend to them which ought not be changed.

Are you using the factory trigger return spring?

If it were me, I'd install the correct factory trigger w/trigger bar for the model (new assembly). Ditto a trigger spring, if it was changed. (Is the spring oriented properly?) If the problem was resolved, you have an answer to consider.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

Can you provide a bit more detail? Are you short stroking and not getting it to reset? If you release the trigger further (even fully) does it reset?

Which APEX trigger did you swap out? You may have bent the trigger bar.

Often, you also need to adjust the loop when using the APEX sear to ensure proper break and reset.

My compact does this. The trigger bar sliding off the edge of the striker block plunger gives a false reset feeling that is slightly short of the actual reset. It trips me up once in a while, typically during quick follow ups of course.

One solution is to file (and then finely polish) the sear where the trigger bar presses against it. This will move the reset point further rearward to conicide with the striker block plunger. It will also move the trigger break rearward and reduce overtravel.

What do you mean by having an issue with the reset? Do you have a mushy trigger? A mushy trigger will give no reset. If this is your issue, replace the Apex trigger return spring with the factory one and see if that fixes it. When I put the Apex trigger return spring in my M&P, it gave me a mushy trigger with no reset at all so I went back with the factory return spring.