Do you have these issue with your M&P 9?

My trigger appears to have major creep in it. When pulled slow enough, I will experience what I would call a false break. You in the video how it "breaks" with the jump backwards, but no striker snap. I release just slightly, not enough for a traditional reset, and pull again and strike it goes.

Also, when breaking down handgun, I know the manual states to use the sear lever. Aint got time for that. Everyone else knows you can use the trigger. Well, when I slide my slide forward with the slide lever down, the slide extends past the frame by a couple of MMs. This will prevent the trigger from striking. If I pull back on the slide slightly to align the slide, the striker hits and slide comes right off. What's the deal with this?

Also, look at how ugly my sear is. I know the glob isn't on a vital area, but still.

You guys think all my issues are related? Other than that, the gun shot get with no issues. It is brand new.


[y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNnwJC84ouA[/y]

That all seems normal to me compared to my 9c. Regarding the trigger, you mention that it shoots fine so I wouldn't worry about what it does when you pull it very slowly. Regarding the disassembly. I lock the slide back, move the take down lever, and then slowly move the slide forward. Somewhere in there it stops. I pull it back a little while repeatedly pulling the trigger. Somewhere in there it releases the striker and then it slides off the frame. I don't pay attention to exactly where in the slide travel these things happen. It doesn't matter as long as they do happen.

I've compared it to an older m&p 9c. It has the Apex duty kit in it. That slide will stop flush with the frame.

It just seems odd to me that this wont stop flush. Not sure what stops it. Wish I could tell, so maybe I can figure out why.

I do have an Apex FSS coming, since it was on sale for $125 shipped. Couldn't pass that up.

Sounds all normal to me. All 3 of my M&Ps do this.

The first "break" you feel is the trigger bar retracting the striker block then sliding underneath it. The Apex block is nicely rounded and polished. The stock block is more chamfered. Once it reaches the end of the chamfer, it transitions to the flat side. This could also provide a false "reset" as you slowly release the trigger. A full APEX kit will "cure" this. I opened the loop on the trigger bar of my 9C a bit to better time the striker block and sear release. My FS and Shield still exhibit this. I only notice it on extremely slow fire.

If you refuse to use the sear deactivation lever and choose to trigger pull, that's your choice. When you release the slide, the striker engages the sear. With the takedown rotated, there is more room for the slide to move forward. This jams the striker up against the sear and applies more spring tension. The stock striker also has a more severe engagement angle which accounts for some of the pull weight. I can still pull the trigger on mine but it takes more pressure to release the striker. My FS has a magazine safety so I need to put the mag in. The Apex sear geometry is different, which would be my guess why the other does not extend so far and is easier to release.

The dot on the sear is an artifact from manufacturing. There are quite a few existing threads on this. Again, non-issue especially since you plan to replace it.