Shield lube points

I got a Shield about a year ago for carry, and have put about 600 rounds thru it. Question I have is what is lube point # 3 in the manual? I also lube the grooves in the slide, just like on a Glock, but don't get exactly what feature # 3 is.

#3 is where the trigger bar interfaces with the sear. With the slide off, if you slowly pull the trigger, you can see the loop in the trigger bar hit the sear and raise it up. Pull the trigger till the loop just touches the sear, drop a drop of lube on it, then pull it a few times to distribute the lube.

Thanks Bub, wasn't that clear in the picture of the manual

And you don't need an entire drop either. Place a drop on a q tip and rub it on. The thinnest layer is all you'll ever need. Less is more with knives, guns and tools.

GordonGlock said:

I got a Shield about a year ago for carry, and have put about 600 rounds thru it. Question I have is what is lube point # 3 in the manual? I also lube the grooves in the slide, just like on a Glock, but don't get exactly what feature # 3 is.

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Don't feel too bad about not knowing exactly where to lube. Smith & Wesson has been using small, low resolution photos to show the lube points for some time now. I've attached a scan of of the lube point photos from the manuals of my M&P 1.0 (on left) and my Shield 45 (on right). They're not any more distinct than yours. For a long time, I thought lube point #3 was the striker block tab on the trigger bar, not the trigger loop. Fortunately there was a post here that set me straight. Just another advantage to membership in the Smith & Wesson Forum!

... and of course, after more rounds, you may notice a few shiny spots develop. These shiny spots are where metal is rubbing metal (the hood, the slide tabs, etc). Do the same 'drop of oil on a Q-tip lube on each of these points.

Excellent information! I too, was not sure about the lub. point #3.

Anyone want to practice cleaning and lubing some shields? I have two that I haven't cleaned from yesterday's range session. I'll even throw in a couple of 22 rifles that need cleaning. I'll furnish all the ice water you need and the cleaning tools.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

NewToGuns17 said:

And you don't need an entire drop either. Place a drop on a q tip and rub it on. The thinnest layer is all you'll ever need. Less is more with knives, guns and tools.

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Negative.

Firearms will work better with more lubrication rather than less. You cannot over lubricate a firearm, as the action will shuck off any excess oil during the firing sequence. This is very well documented by professional trigger pullers. Look up Pat Rogers' "Filthy 14" carbine, and also Larry Vickers did a video on YouTube where he dunked an AR-15 in a tote full of motor oil.

At work I yell at guys like you who show up to qualify with a dry pistol. If you're serious enough to carry a pistol, then be serious enough in your lubrication schedule to keep it functioning.

I'd like to think 45FMJoe, is Toying with us! lol.... Or do you think he is serious?

Nope, quite serious. Like all mechanical devices, they work better with lubrication. I've never seen a stoppage occur on the range from too much lubrication, only too little.

It seems, you are advocating the generous use of lubricants in service pistols (i.e. MP Shield) & others.
Using your directive instructions, It would be fine to dunk the entire piece into a container of oil and not worry about miss-fires, jamming. FTF, FTE, etc. because the volatility of the action would shake-off any surplus lub. and make the gun perform better! Or am I not comprehending your post?

45FMJoe has a point - up to a point. It's true that in general, mechanical parts that bear against each other will wear by friction faster when in a dry or insufficiently lubricated state. More oil will help reduce the friction. However, there is a downside in that more lube also attracts more residue rather quickly. So, I am assuming that 45FMJoe would agree and perhaps clarify that a rigorous cleaning regimen be observed so as to eliminate any possibility of a malfunction by the buildup of a thickened area.

I run my guns a bit on the wet side, but keep them rather dry while not in use. My carry gun is kept well lubed, but well cleaned at all times.

Ole Joe Clark said:

Anyone want to practice cleaning and lubing some shields? I have two that I haven't cleaned from yesterday's range session. I'll even throw in a couple of 22 rifles that need cleaning. I'll furnish all the ice water you need and the cleaning tools.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

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Leon,
I'll be more than happy to clean those things up for you. Just bring them on by and I'll get 'er done. Bring a pizza and some soda too and we can sit on the back patio and shoot the breeze while I'm cleaning them for you.

45FMJoe said:

Negative.

Firearms will work better with more lubrication rather than less.

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Myth.

Yes, firearms need some lubrication, but the idea that there cannot be too much is ludicrous. It's not the over lubrication itself that's the issue, it's what it does that's the problem.

First of all, every molecule of oil or grease that squeezes out is wasted. It's only the tiny bit that remains on the contact surfaces that is actually doing any good. So, more oil is just more oil and none of that is helping lubricate the gun.

Secondly, that oil will attract dirt. Dirt is the enemy of a functioning gun. This is why using the right amount is important.

In the video by Larry Vickers he doesn't do a serious test. He just dunks the gun in oil and starts shooting. This is just a more viscous version of dunking the gun in water. Of course the gun will work that way. A proper test would be to dunk the gun in oil and then drop it in the dirt. The over lubricated gun, that is now caked in dirt, will malfunction before the properly lubricated one every time.

45FMJoe said:

At work I yell at guys like you who show up to qualify with a dry pistol. If you're serious enough to carry a pistol, then be serious enough in your lubrication schedule to keep it functioning.

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It's a shame you treat people this way. You're placing your own feelings over what the manufacturer says is necessary. What you should care about is if their gun functions. If their gun malfunctions, then counsel them about proper maintenance.

Yes, the gun shouldn't be absolutely dry, but it shouldn't be dripping with lubricant either.

And just for the record, the point #3 in the pictures doesn't really need lube.

Well, one positive point in doing it 45FMJoe's way, You'll never miss a lub point!

And, as a last resort...........read instructions !!!!!!

John Robert said:

And, as a last resort...........read instructions !!!!!!

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Yeah, well that's the thing, the OP had a tough time seeing what point #3 was in the instructions, so they needed a bit of help, so reading the instructions to see what the unclear image was referring too wouldn't help.

John Robert said:

And, as a last resort...........read instructions !!!!!!

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Or you could actually read the thread. The OP asked the question because he read the instructions and they weren't clear. He even posted a pic of what wasn't clear in the instructions.

Rastoff said:

Leon,
I'll be more than happy to clean those things up for you. Just bring them on by and I'll get 'er done. Bring a pizza and some soda too and we can sit on the back patio and shoot the breeze while I'm cleaning them for you.

Myth.

Yes, firearms need some lubrication, but the idea that there cannot be too much is ludicrous. It's not the over lubrication itself that's the issue, it's what it does that's the problem.

First of all, every molecule of oil or grease that squeezes out is wasted. It's only the tiny bit that remains on the contact surfaces that is actually doing any good. So, more oil is just more oil and none of that is helping lubricate the gun.

Secondly, that oil will attract dirt. Dirt is the enemy of a functioning gun. This is why using the right amount is important.

In the video by Larry Vickers he doesn't do a serious test. He just dunks the gun in oil and starts shooting. This is just a more viscous version of dunking the gun in water. Of course the gun will work that way. A proper test would be to dunk the gun in oil and then drop it in the dirt. The over lubricated gun, that is now caked in dirt, will malfunction before the properly lubricated one every time.

It's a shame you treat people this way. You're placing your own feelings over what the manufacturer says is necessary. What you should care about is if their gun functions. If their gun malfunctions, then counsel them about proper maintenance.

Yes, the gun shouldn't be absolutely dry, but it shouldn't be dripping with lubricant either.

Click to expand...

The myth is that too much lubricant will attract dirt and cause a weapon to malfunction. That lesson has been learned in the desert. But, as I said before look up the article of "Filthy 14" by the late Pat Rogers. You don't have to believe me, but if you have better credentials than Pat Rogers I'll be shocked.

I do not "treat my people that way" due to personal beliefs. I've seen what happens to our full auto M4s when they're poorly lubricated. I've watched our pistols choke when they're dry. What I've never seen is an "over" lubricated firearm fail due to anything except for possibly ammunition or shooter induced problems. I don't expect their service pistols to drip with lubricant, but I expect them to be lubricated and rubbing a drop of oil around with a q-tip isn't going to cut it. I don't want one of my guys losing a gunfight because his pistol was poorly maintained.