So I decided I wanted to cerakote my MP Shield but after watching some videos on removing the roll pins, I'm in a bit of a quandary. I bought some roll pin punches off Amazon (first mistake) and after a few minutes of trying to remove them, I bent one of the punches. Now I'm guessing that these punches are cheap made-in-china garbage but am I correct in assuming that the roll pins can be punched out from either side of the pistol? Or are they larger on one side?
Removing the roll pins on an MP Shield
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lacerda023
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Roll pins
Roll pins are non directional use a roll of masking tape to rest your fame on
Trigger pin left to right out right to left in
Roll pins are non directional use a roll of masking tape to rest your fame on
Trigger pin left to right out right to left in
Do you know what happens to the internals when you punch out the pins, and more importantly, do you know how to reassemble it?
I've watched some detailed videos on how to remove the internal parts after knocking out the pins. I know that it's not the same as hands on experience but I'm pretty good with reassembling things the way I originally find them. If you have a link to a good guide or video tho I would appreciate it.
Ruger Nut
US Veteran
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsdlFUMKt6E[/ame]
https://youtu.be/9yiozpxlnK4
https://youtu.be/J-NQLnuiC58
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=s&w+shield+disassembly+and+reassembly
Lonestar57
Member
I've disassembled a Shield a couple of times installing aftermarket trigger systems for people. I'll say this. Those pins are surprisingly tight. A good firm platform, hammer, and quality roll pin punch was needed. I also dripped in some Kroil and let it sit for a bit before punching them out.
Is there any reason I couldn't use a tiny bit of WD40 on the pins instead of Kroil?
Lonestar57
Member
Should be OK. Some are better than others regarding penetration, but any kind is better than nothing. You can drive the pins out partially then add a little more if needed.
mscampbell2734
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Not to be an arse but are you using some sort of gunsmithing block with holes to drive the pins into? If your using a hard flat surface the pin doesn't have any place to go.
Something like this.
GUNSMITH BENCH BLOCK POLYMER BLACK : PRO MAG ARCHANGEL GUNSMITH BENCH BLOCK | Brownells
Something like this.
GUNSMITH BENCH BLOCK POLYMER BLACK : PRO MAG ARCHANGEL GUNSMITH BENCH BLOCK | Brownells
Not being an arse at all, makes perfect sense. Not my first rodeo with roll pins, just the first time disassembling a pistol.
HEADKNOCKER
Member
My 1st attempt removing those pins on a S&W M&P was very hard to get them to move, I tried oil & have a great American made roll pin punch set from AR-15 building I bought 25 years ago from Lyman
I used a thick piece of foam block to hammer down on & that was the ticket = having a uniformed platform to hammer on, it took more heft than the small elf hammer I was using & went with a 12oz hammer
My SD9 was the same exact way & the foam block that is now shaped like a S&W is a part of my armorer's tool kit
I used a thick piece of foam block to hammer down on & that was the ticket = having a uniformed platform to hammer on, it took more heft than the small elf hammer I was using & went with a 12oz hammer
My SD9 was the same exact way & the foam block that is now shaped like a S&W is a part of my armorer's tool kit
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That looks great! Well done!
No. I was thinking the same thing.
Ruger Nut
US Veteran
Wait a minute, no pic posted of an M&P? HK, you're slipping.
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HEADKNOCKER
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Hey Ruger Nut
I forgot to take photos while I was driving the pins out of my M&P Project Thursday evening, bet my neighbor wondered who was pounding so loud at 2:00am, Yeah that was my bed banging against the wall
Those M&P Shield pins were tough to move but some folks claim they have come loose under recoil
Using the correct roll pin punch & a nice hammer, small ball pean in my case + used a foam block which keeps the frame from getting scarred up, but it absorbs some of the impact which makes driving the pins out more trouble
My Shield Performance Center 40 is now a 2.0
Thinking about getting a Shield Plus frame for the M2.0 one I took from it
But that will leave me a 1.0 stripped frame & six 1.0/2.0 9mm magazines
What to Do???
Just leave it be
The Plus frame is $75 with one 13 round magazine & also comes with the magazine catch, ALL other parts are transplantable
It can be had with or without manual safety JFYI
I forgot to take photos while I was driving the pins out of my M&P Project Thursday evening, bet my neighbor wondered who was pounding so loud at 2:00am, Yeah that was my bed banging against the wall
Those M&P Shield pins were tough to move but some folks claim they have come loose under recoil
Using the correct roll pin punch & a nice hammer, small ball pean in my case + used a foam block which keeps the frame from getting scarred up, but it absorbs some of the impact which makes driving the pins out more trouble
My Shield Performance Center 40 is now a 2.0
Thinking about getting a Shield Plus frame for the M2.0 one I took from it
But that will leave me a 1.0 stripped frame & six 1.0/2.0 9mm magazines
What to Do???
Just leave it be
The Plus frame is $75 with one 13 round magazine & also comes with the magazine catch, ALL other parts are transplantable
It can be had with or without manual safety JFYI
