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05-06-2013, 08:09 PM
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Troy TRX 308 handguard
I am considering the Troy handguard and I see quite a few of you are using this model. I saw a couple reviews in various places that weren't happy with how the handguard mounts to the dpms-style barrel nut. Is everyone happy with their setup? Thanks for the input. These guns are dangerous to the wallet...
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05-06-2013, 08:42 PM
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Honestly, I would purchase a JP Modular handguard. I got my 12" one for $155 shipped from opticsplanet. Cheapest I found the Troy was $172 shipped from grabagun. I don't now if these prices are still those amounts, but I can tell you the JP was ultra easy to install and would recommend it as a handguard. I chose the JP due to the clamp-on style of the Troy seeming to me to be not as quality at the JP, and I prefer the look of the JP.
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05-07-2013, 01:53 PM
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I have the TRX LP 13.8". It came with its own barrel nut, so no problems. It's an expensive option, but it's a real eye turner. I am thus far very happy with it, both looks and quality wise.
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05-24-2013, 10:42 PM
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Thanks for the replies on this subject. Has anybody tried any other handguards and have opinions? Thanks.
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05-25-2013, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbowpsp
Honestly, I would purchase a JP Modular handguard. I got my 12" one for $155 shipped from opticsplanet. Cheapest I found the Troy was $172 shipped from grabagun. I don't now if these prices are still those amounts, but I can tell you the JP was ultra easy to install and would recommend it as a handguard. I chose the JP due to the clamp-on style of the Troy seeming to me to be not as quality at the JP, and I prefer the look of the JP.
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if you put a rail on top of the JP handguard it is the same height as the rail on the M&P10 upper?
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05-25-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freedoom
if you put a rail on top of the JP handguard it is the same height as the rail on the M&P10 upper?
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I cannot answer that question. The handguard comes with two swivel studs, but no rail sections. However, it is made so that you can place a section wherever you need it, such as say you want front BUIS, you just add the 2" rail section out front. They also have a full length rail you can add if needed. I am using a scope so I didn't need any rail to begin with and thus why the JP was better choice for me. I could call them up and ask, but I am pretty sure it would be the same height.
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05-25-2013, 05:39 PM
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I'm very happy with my 12.8 TRX 308. I like leaving a little bit extra barrel exposed at the end. Feels solid.
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08-29-2013, 02:24 PM
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I'm looking at the Troy also, but after measuring it appears to be a high profile on the M&P 10. I've been hearing that it takes a low profile handguard. Can anyone help me out with this? Unless my eyes are shot I get 3/16" over the charging handle.
Thanks
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08-29-2013, 08:45 PM
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Troy handguard
The M&P 10 take the LOW PROFILE handguard. Installed one on mine a month back and I'm quite happy. It matches the height. Installation was easy once I found out that the guard split in half (top & bottom) to get out the Troy bbl nut.
Go for it -- you won't regret it.
Willy
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08-29-2013, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpriest
The M&P 10 take the LOW PROFILE handguard. Installed one on mine a month back and I'm quite happy. It matches the height. Installation was easy once I found out that the guard split in half (top & bottom) to get out the Troy bbl nut.
Go for it -- you won't regret it.
Willy
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Thanks, is that the trx 308 free float that splits in half? Thought they were solid. I also understand ill need a .750 gas block for anything over 9". I like their guards. Not like a cheese grater but come with the full top rail and 3 others to use where you want.
Does $183 sound like a good price?
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08-29-2013, 10:50 PM
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183 is good. I'd be all over it. Waiting on mine to arrive tomorrow. I installed the Midwest industries low profile gas block and it fits very well and won't or shouldn't budge since it had 3 set screws on the bottom and I went a little farther and drilled three small dimples in the barrel at the screws contact points. A little blue on the threads and she ain't moving.
Keep us posted on what you decide to do and have fun doing it.
Dave
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08-30-2013, 12:35 AM
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I have a 13.8" Troy on my M&P 10. I really like it. Noveske makes super slick attachments for bipods and QD points for slings. Very nice.
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08-30-2013, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeked
183 is good. I'd be all over it. Waiting on mine to arrive tomorrow. I installed the Midwest industries low profile gas block and it fits very well and won't or shouldn't budge since it had 3 set screws on the bottom and I went a little farther and drilled three small dimples in the barrel at the screws contact points. A little blue on the threads and she ain't moving.
Keep us posted on what you decide to do and have fun doing it.
Dave
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Thanks, will do. I have to recover a bit after the rifle and ammo purchase!!
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08-30-2013, 11:40 AM
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I installed a Troy TRX 13.8 inch LP with a Troy LP gas block.
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08-30-2013, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc498
I installed a Troy TRX 13.8 inch LP with a Troy LP gas block.
![](http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk15/hewittrj78218/6de172b7efdaaa694f4e515dc4f54663.jpg)
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Now that's what I'm talkin' about. What are the inserts you have in the cooling holes? Also Troy?
I'm afraid I may be hijacking this thread...if so, let me know and I'll cease and desist
Last edited by Jessie; 08-30-2013 at 11:47 AM.
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08-30-2013, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jessie
Now that's what I'm talkin' about. What are the inserts you have in the cooling holes? Also Troy?
I'm afraid I may be hijacking this thread...if so, let me know and I'll cease and desist
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Squid Grips by TROY
Troy Industries Squid Grip Inserts TRX Extreme Alpha Rail Delta Rail
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08-30-2013, 02:41 PM
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Thanks guys, just orders both.
Last question/ what is the barrel diameter of the heavy, non comped such as Doc shows in his pic? I was checking and did not realize there were as many choices as they show for the LP has block. I have the same barrel, I think. They show a .750/ .875 and a .936. I'm thinking .875 since its not a pencil or true bull barrel.
Thanks again for educating this ol country boy
Last edited by Jessie; 08-30-2013 at 04:15 PM.
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08-30-2013, 05:09 PM
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I used a Troy .750 LP Gas Block. If you don't have a DPMS tool take your M&P 10 to your local gun smith and have them change your barrel nut for you. And make sure the gas block is tight to the barrel flange.
Make sure you use the Troy 13.8 TRX 308 Extreme DPMS LP - BLK (STRX-E3D-13BT-00).
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08-30-2013, 05:44 PM
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Ok thanks Doc, I guess both barrels are same dimension to the block then. I got the 12.6" ( advertised length ). Should work also?
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08-31-2013, 09:40 AM
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Mine is also the 12.6 with the Troy LP .750
I mounted my gasblock a razorblades thickness (the thickness of the forend cap) away from the flange
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08-31-2013, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ole-cowboy
Mine is also the 12.6 with the Troy LP .750
I mounted my gasblock a razorblades thickness (the thickness of the forend cap) away from the flange
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Great, thanks it sounds like I'll be in business when it all arrives.
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09-08-2013, 10:47 PM
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Here we go folks. I got my Troy handguard and can't get the correct timing on my barrel nut. The tooth on the nut is at twelve O'Clock and going back puts me under thirty foot pounds. Someone recommended to tighten and loosen the nut repeatedly until I can get the correct timing. Troy Industries is also going to send a new barrel nut to try. So, what do y'all think about the tighten and loosen idea to achieve the proper timing and the proper torque? Did anyone else run into this problem installing their?
PS: I thought about grinding down the tooth so the gas tube would go in, but then the rail wouldn't line up after the twist to lock it into place.
Last edited by Deeked; 09-08-2013 at 10:51 PM.
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09-09-2013, 07:45 AM
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Still waiting on mine, SHOULD be here today. Don't like the sound of your trouble Deeked, let us know how you fare with it. Maybe the new nut will fix it.
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09-09-2013, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeked
Here we go folks. I got my Troy handguard and can't get the correct timing on my barrel nut. The tooth on the nut is at twelve O'Clock and going back puts me under thirty foot pounds. Someone recommended to tighten and loosen the nut repeatedly until I can get the correct timing. Troy Industries is also going to send a new barrel nut to try. So, what do y'all think about the tighten and loosen idea to achieve the proper timing and the proper torque? Did anyone else run into this problem installing their?
PS: I thought about grinding down the tooth so the gas tube would go in, but then the rail wouldn't line up after the twist to lock it into place.
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I have read on forums two different ways to deal with this,
1) is to shave material from the bearing surface of the barrel nut, to allow the nut to sear deeper. This would have to be done very slowly and evenly
2) you already mention is to grind down the offending tooth, this would have not have anything to do with the fore-end from lining up, just allow a space for the gas tube.
I got mine to line up using a german torque wrench and set it to "gutentight"
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09-09-2013, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ole-cowboy
I have read on forums two different ways to deal with this,
1) is to shave material from the bearing surface of the barrel nut, to allow the nut to sear deeper. This would have to be done very slowly and evenly
2) you already mention is to grind down the offending tooth, this would have not have anything to do with the fore-end from lining up, just allow a space for the gas tube.
I got mine to line up using a german torque wrench and set it to "gutentight"
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Thank you for the response. I ended up just tightening and loosening the nut about 10 times. From gutentight to loose repeatedly. It all worked beautifully. Thanks my man.
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09-12-2013, 08:42 AM
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Great news Deeked. I'll remember that when I find a proper wrench! Which one are you using. Having a hard time locating one. I'm also seeing that at least one will work the Troy nut but not the original to remove it? Is that correct?
Why do things have to be difficult sometimes....
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09-12-2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeked
Thank you for the response. I ended up just tightening and loosening the nut about 10 times. From gutentight to loose repeatedly. It all worked beautifully. Thanks my man.
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no problem, Most of the time forums such as this one provide a lot of help, just trying to chime in when I can offer something constructive
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09-12-2013, 11:03 AM
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I installed mine about 2 weeks ago. with no issues.
I had a DPMS wrench
DPMS Armorer AR15 Wrench
and a snap on torque wrench.
i set it to 40 and ended up having to give it a slight little bump to get it to line perfectly gas tube.
One Hint i will tell you that messed me up or i didn't notice till my next cleaning was the little rails optional to mount on the bottom for a bipod. i mounted it prior to putting the complete rail never looking it over just happy the job was complete but the part you screw to inside the rail was rubbing against the gas block.
This will affect the purpose of a free float rail and making some shots inconsistent.
Just inspect this before hand...
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09-12-2013, 11:11 AM
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09-12-2013, 01:49 PM
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Thanks guys, I take it that the ar15 wrench fits the 308 size nut then? That makes it much simpler.
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09-12-2013, 03:39 PM
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The one listed i can confirm will BUT i watched a you tube video of a guy working on a mp10 and his would not and he had to drimel out to inside of his.
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09-12-2013, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jones424
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I have this exact tool. Get it. Works perfect and it's very well made.
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09-12-2013, 06:52 PM
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Thank you both, I'll get it
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09-14-2013, 08:59 AM
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Got it and worked fine. I noticed that the factory barrel nut was not very tight. I guessed it came off with no more than 20 ft/lb of torque. Kind of got my attention. I installed the Troy to 40 ft/lb and got good timing there.
Having a heck of a time removing the gas tube drift pin from the gas block. Bending all my punches! Any tricks to that? I'm going left to right, tried pen. oil, heat and still no movement.
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09-14-2013, 12:00 PM
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I also bent a punch then went to lowes and bought a good one.
I took my upper from the vice had a friend hold the block flat on a wooden table and just knocked it a few GOOD times and it started working its way every hit it went smoother and smoother.
getting the pin back into the troy for me was a challenge and everyone says they never had an issue i used the same pin and even bought a pin still tight as could be. messed up the end a little but its there tight and solid and no one will ever see it so im good.
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09-14-2013, 02:04 PM
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I found my solution, took it to my local smithy. 10 seconds, it was out. I got the original pin back in ok, tight but went in. I was afraid of getting it started and losing it across the room somewhere, but didn't happen.
I also put a drop of blue locktite on the end of the gas tube at the ring area. Didn't care for the loose fit and was concerned about blow by. The smith said it wouldn't hurt anything but not to use much.
I imagine if there is any blow by it will burn out the locktite in short order anyways.
Last edited by Jessie; 09-14-2013 at 02:08 PM.
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10-09-2013, 03:10 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: San Antonio, TX
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i Like to use a pair of vise grips to get pins in. I line up the pin on the gas block and the vice grips allowed me to slide the pin in with ease.
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10-27-2013, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc498
I installed a Troy TRX 13.8 inch LP with a Troy LP gas block.
![](http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk15/hewittrj78218/6de172b7efdaaa694f4e515dc4f54663.jpg)
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That looks very nice. Makes me regret buying the thin barreled model.
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11-04-2013, 10:44 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc498
I installed a Troy TRX 13.8 inch LP with a Troy LP gas block.
![](http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk15/hewittrj78218/6de172b7efdaaa694f4e515dc4f54663.jpg)
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Do you have a model number for the Troy low pro gas block you used? I need one for my M&P.
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11-05-2013, 09:49 AM
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US Veteran
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc498
I installed a Troy TRX 13.8 inch LP with a Troy LP gas block.
![](http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk15/hewittrj78218/6de172b7efdaaa694f4e515dc4f54663.jpg)
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Doc498;
Hey, is that a factory barrel? Just noticed the lack of a flash hider...
__________________
Audaces Fortuna Juvat
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12-20-2013, 10:07 AM
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That is a compliant barrel or a heavy barrel-bull barrel. I actually bought one on accident on gun broker.com ( live in fla - no compliance laws) I will be setting my rig up very similar to Doc's cause frankly it just looks good. After that I am going to possibly get a magpul prs - but an extra two lbs could change my mind when I am going to be using her for hog hunting her in fla.
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12-20-2013, 10:56 PM
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Try a B5 Systems SOPMOD. I have one on my M&P10 and it's rock solid with a good cheek weild and no slop. It also has some weight but just enough to help balance the gun
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01-14-2014, 02:47 PM
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It looks like a compliant barrel.
Doc, what kind of adapter is that for your bi-pod? Anyone using something similar? I have the bi pod but need a beefy adapter. Don't want it to look to busy, just work well and be un-complicated.
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