I just removed the front sight base from my m&p and they were backward from what I expected. I had to drive them from right to left instead of left to right. Fortunately, I figured it out before I did any damage or made them impossible to remove.

Is this the standard S&W Configuration?

Don't know if it is standard for S&W, but the right to left fact is well documented in various forums.

To keep track of these various "good to know" things, I maintain a directory on my PC which has folders for all of the various makes/models of firearms I own. Every time I stumble across something like this, I do a bit of research to verify it, then toss it into the folder. Next time I need to work, buy parts, etc. for that particular firearm, I check the folder to see if there is anything to be noted.

__________________
Stu

Yep - S&W is backwards from the standard. You gotta wonder why...

__________________
*Aim small, miss small...

I'm thinking of replacing my MOE forend with a free floating one from Daniel Defense, but I will have to remove fsp. Being a newbee, I was wondering just how hard were the pins to remove? thanks for the info.

If you drive them the right way, then they aren't too bad. It took me several sharp blows with a hammer and a taper pin starter punch. It is important to support the sight when you do that to avoid transferring the shock to the barrel. You want to use a punch that doesn't walk on you (flat, cupped, whatever) so you don't peen the end of the pin over making it then necessary to cut the sight off. I'm sure S&W's replacement is top dollar.

A little Kroil on them doesn't hurt and not doing the work in the garage at 5 degrees is a good idea, too.

Brownells makes a nice block for this ($$), but, it does not fit the S&W without some modification. Also, as is noted, the markings on it are backward from the "normal" AR.

For the life of me, I can't figure out why S&W felt the need to do that. Some engineer is just laughing at all of us. It isn't like the design of the sight is any better as far as I can see.

Wish me luck, I just ordered the rail today. Your information is greatly appreciated, it makes me feel a little better about the project.
Thanks again

In the beginning, Stag made the M&P15 for S&W. The taper pins on Stag rifles push out in the same direction - or at least used to when I bought my M&P15R several years ago.

I have tapped, whapped, and beat on those front sight pins with NO movement. I know they are backwards from normal ARs. So, what the secret?

Soak them with Kroil or WD-40 and let them sit over night. Support the sight /barrel/upper receiver and give a few shots as described above. When I removed mine, I didn't hit 'em hard, just forceful taps and I could see them moving...I was worried about doing damage to the barrel.
Check youtube as well, there's a bunch of "how to" videos there on removing the front sight/gb.
Good luck.

Take a look here http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-w...k-removal.html

__________________
M&P9/9C/Shieldx2/Sportx2/15-22

I used a pin punch that I bought in a set from Matco about 10 inches long, I think it was 1/8 inch and went right to left, two solid whacks each with a small ball peen hammer and they were moving then I used a small pin punch to drive the the rest of the way, you just have to get the area where they set the pins to move a little then the material will let go.

__________________
Grover Oathkeeper

I ended up having to cut my (M&P15 OR) gas block off, because I could not get the pin to move (bent or chipped 3 steel punches in the process), and I'm not the only one who has had that problem. However, some people get it fairly easily - there seems to be significant variability to how firmly the pins are stuck.

Well I have the opposite problem. The taper pin on my gas block has worked its way out twice. What is the secret for getting it to stay in place?? Would Loctite help, perhaps a new taper pin?? It seems super tight when I tap it back in place...it just doesn't stay after the gas block gets hot.

Lee, back up the taper pin with a large hammer or small vise or whatever and then hit the other end (the small end) to set it like you would have set a rivet in the old days, once you swell the small end it cant work its way out...when the are installed they set them and make them bigger and that is the stuff that gives people so much trouble, that is why a cut tip punch is recommended cause it cuts off the swelled shoulder when removing it

__________________
Grover Oathkeeper

That would probably work....I am going to call S&W customer service and see what they recommend as well. The first time the set screw on the bottom of the gas block was also loose. I did Loctite that screw and it hasn't moved since.

Had to heat up the pins with a heat gun for a sec then they slid right out

Hey guys, I'm attempting to remove the front site post from my M&P 15 Sport without much success. I bought a new set of punches and was able to get the front pin out after quite a bit of effort (from right to left). The rear pin has moved ever so slightly, but I cannot for the life of me get it to budge any further. Any advice? Is it possible the two pins are facing opposite directions?? Thanks for the help