I don't hear too many good things from guys who come through work to buy ammo from sporting goods(i work at Walmart). Is it really that bad because inward gonna buy some boxes for plinking unless it's gonna do something horrid to my gun lol

I would like to know also. You can get it from cheaper than dirt right not for 500 rounds $109 and around $15 shipping.

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M&P15,9MM,M66,22-A,Glock 30SF

I use it all of the time in my MP9 & AR. Nothing wrong with it except it's a little dirtier than some. I clean my guns after every range trip, so it's no biggie to me.

Would I trust it for defensive ammo, no. But for plinking it's fine.

Have you had any problems with it at all? I always clean my guns after shooting them.

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M&P15,9MM,M66,22-A,Glock 30SF

It cycles through my 15-Sport & my Franken-AR just fine. TulAmmo is great practice ammo.

I love steel case ammo because it doesn't set off the my compulsive brass pickup habit.

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-John

In the past year I have gone through probably 2000 rounds and had 1 (one) FTF in that time. Went through the clearing drill and when I looked at it later it had a good primer strike. Everyone makes a bad one now and again.

But for cheaper plinking and killing Soda Cans & paper it's fine.

Cool thanks for the info. 1 out of a couple thousand is expected. I may have to order me some.

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M&P15,9MM,M66,22-A,Glock 30SF

I've used it a lot, other than the occasional under charged round, haven't had any problems with it, my local walmart sells it for 4.97, that's pretty cheap plinking.

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

I like it and I like the fact that to clean up after I shoot (out at our farm) I just use a big magnet!!!

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Grover Oathkeeper

No issues at all. As mentioned before, a good cleaning is needed afterward...but, I hope you'd do that anyway.

I have only run about 80 rounds of it through my sport, but I about a half a dozen that it would not pick up the next round out of the magazine. What I would call a short stroke. At this time, I don't plan on giving it a second chance.

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M&P9/9C/Shieldx2/Sportx2/15-22

No one has had any issues? I have heard most manufacturers do not approve of it's use and some offer no warranty if you use steel cased ammo. Just curious.

I have not heard that or read that. Can you post a link to where that is? My gundealer sent me 100 rounds of it to try when I got my Sport!

The only issue I have had with it besides a couple of soft rounds is the fact that the lacquer can stick to the sides of a hot chamber and you really have to work hard to clean it out.

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Grover Oathkeeper

I thought that Tulammo is Polymer coated? I know Brown Bear is Lacquer Coated I think.

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M&P15,9MM,M66,22-A,Glock 30SF

.223 Remington, TulAmmo, 55 Grain Full Metal Jacket Bullet, 3241 FPS, 20 Round Box.

Manufactured at the Tula Cartridge works in Russia.
Polymer coated steel case.
Boxer-primed.
Bimetal jacket will attract a magnet.
Non corrosive.
Non reloadable.

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M&P15,9MM,M66,22-A,Glock 30SF

Some good info on lacquer case myths here. The Box O' Truth - Educational Zone #18 - Shooting Wolf steel-cased Ammo in an AR15

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M&P9/9C/Shieldx2/Sportx2/15-22

Very good read. Thanks!!

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M&P15,9MM,M66,22-A,Glock 30SF

This was old stuff. Everyone honors their warranties, and the only issue would be lacquer coated brass. The WPA/ Wolf and Tula, Silver, Brown bear ammo have a polymer coating. No real issues other than an occasional split neck.
After about 3,000 rounds, you may need to really clean the chamber with a brush more than the usual cleaning. Other than that, it's great for when you are attacked by pumpkins!!!

I use Tula 55 and 62 grain with no problems.

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*Aim small, miss small...

I stand corrected I was using Brown Bear and Tula....any how. What causes the split neck. I noticed a couple when I was cleaning off the magnet?

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Grover Oathkeeper

I shoot a lot of Brown Bear 55gr HP and it is very similar to the Tula and have never had an issue other than a couple of FTF, but I get that with some Federal as well. One word of caution, if you shoot a lot of the steel case stuf, clean your chamber BEFORE going to the brass cased stuff.
It is my understanding the the steel case does not expand like brass and it will leave a powder residue that makes the brass hard to eject, hence the coating rumor when, in fact it, is mainly powder fouling in the chamber. hope this helps because this about as cheap as we can shoot anymore.

According to there privacy statement we can't even read that, but wow they actually said no to steel cases.

.....I strictly run LC, XM193F, I only shot a couple boxes of other stuff, imo this is the most consistent ammo I've ran.
Maybe I'm weird this way, but every weapon I own shoots only one type of ammo based on trial and error to find whats accurate to me, as I do set high standards for my shot groups though.
I shot competition skeet for a couple years, this really made me look at ammo differently. Before then, I shot what ever I could find and thought that malfunctions were part of the shooting sports.

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Light, Accurate,Versatile M&P

RE: RRA voided warranty

IMHO, if a rifle can't handle SAAMI-compliant ammo in a steel case, why would I want to buy that rifle?

There is NOTHING wrong with Tula. Yes, it burns dirtier, but ALL euro-ammo does. I've shot over 4000 rounds of Tula .223 in the last three years, and have never had a problem with faulty ammo, and have even found it to be generally more consistent than Federal or Lake City brass.

For practice at the range or tactical carbine competition, you can't beat it's much lower price. However, in harsher conditions than a covered firing position at a range, and with the possibility of the ammo being subjected to a less-than-ideal environment, I'd use brass stuff (indeed, all of my ready-0 mags are filled with M855).

However I practice almost exclusively with Tula (mostly 62-grain).

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*Aim small, miss small...

The steel in the cases is very soft, and it's pretty thin. As such, when the bullet leaves the case, the pressure can split the rim. It will happen occasionally on rifle rounds with brass cases, but it's pretty uncommon unless you have reloaded like 4-7 times.

As to the ammo, and to the specs, and warranties: ANY SAAMI rated ammunition that is chambered for your gun; wether it be pistol, rifle, or shotgun can be used, and WILL NOT void any warranty.
If you look to new rifle warranties, not one I have read in the last 2 years has any mention of steel cased ammo. Because- they can't really call you on it. It's rated for your gun, PERIOD.
The rifles I have read the warranty on in the last 2 years (I work part time for an FFL........ S&W- Sport, M&P 15T, OR, M&P pistols-9mm and 40 cal. DelTon-AR15. DPMS Panther, Oracle-308 and AR15. Colt- M4. RRA- LAR308. Sig Sauer-556 pistol, and rifle. LMT ar15. LWRC-308. Saiga- 7.62, 5.56, 308, 12ga. Remington- 870. Sig Sauer pistols. Ruger 556, and Ruger LC9. Ruger 38spl. Springfield pistols; 45, 9mm, 40.
NOT ONE of these has any specific recommendation to not use steel case int he instruction manuals, nor in the warranty. It says "Use only high quality ammunition chambered for the firearm you are using it in. Use only SAAMI rated ammunition."

A manufacturer might nudge you in the direction of one type of ammo or another; but unless it is specifically called out as unsafe for your rifle, they are going to warranty the rifle for any failures which are the RIFLE'S malfunction or manufacturing defect.
S&W specifically calls out a couple types of 22lr ammo they insist you do not use in the 15-22. And, as such, since it is in the users' manual..... you are warned to not use it. And I would hope S&W will toughen up the receivers to accept all types of 22lr ammo without malfunction.

I'll pass on the Tula ammo.

I was calculating and not figuring in my time, with ammo prices where they are presently, I can still buy ammo for the same price I can load it for (within a few cents) But I am only buying brass cased now because there will come a day when that isnt possible and I want to have plenty to load.

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Grover Oathkeeper

I have no problems with it at all through my Sport

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This Signature is too Short!

I bought 500 rounds of federal american eagle, and have some Remington UMC, should net me enough brass cases to reload over next winter.

Still hard to beat the cost of that steel cased ammo. Bought a few more boxes of Tulammo today, found some in stock at the Walmart up north of me. My dad shot the M&P15 using the Tula, not really a good shot as he used to be, so it was good for that

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

Steel-case .223 ammo is sub-standard, and will tie up a lot of AR-15's

There are those who react every time somebody says anything against steel-case .223 ammo.
First they will tell you to "break in" your rifle some more.
Then, if the steel-case .223 still fails they will insist that your rifle is "defective."
Lastly they will begin preaching about how they "wouldn't own a rifle that won't shoot steel-case."

I've had bad luck with steel case in both of my AR-15's.
After about one magazine, it starts short-cycling until a case seizes in the chamber, and the extractor rips the rim off.
On top of that, its underpowered.

Don't use it.

One is a full-length Armalite A2 with standard rifle buffer (chamber appears to be chrome - cannot say for sure about the bore).

Other is a Chrome-lined J&T-sourced 10.5 SBR with H2 buffer (rips rims with, and without, the Gemtech HALO suppressor).

After about one magazine, each rifle starts short-cycling until a case seizes in the chamber, and the extractor rips the rim off.

Neither of my guns are problematic with quality BRASS-CASED ammunition.

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Seriously, you can try some of that stuff in your rifle if you want.

I recommend that you load three mags each with 20 rounds.

Fire the first mag quickly without pausing.

If the gun has not choked by the end of the first mag, quickly insert the second mag.

Quickly fire 10 rounds from the second mag.

Cease fire.

Wait one minute try to fire the next shot (shot #11 second mag).

If the gun has not choked yet, fire four more shots.

Cease fire.

Wait one minute, and fire the remaining rounds in the mag.

Quickly insert the final mag, and fire all 20 rounds in rapid succession.

If the gun has not choked by the end of the third mag, you may conclude that your rifle *probably* tolerates steel-case ammo.

Otherwise, remember to bring a stiff cleaning rod to the range to bang the stuck cases from the chamber, and remember the stuck cases will be HOT.

The cleaning rod will also become extremely hot after two insertions in a hot bore.


Somebody will be along shortly to remind us that steel-case .223 works fine in AR's so long as you ram a steel-wire brush in the chamber to clean out whatever residue it is that steel-case ammo leaves behind, that brass-case ammo does not leave behind.

Then somebody will remind us that steel-case .223 ammo is fine in AR's unless you make the "mistake" of shooting brass-case ammo in the gun after you shoot the steel-case ammo - as you will discover that if you thought the stuck steel-case ammo was hell, the stuck brass-case ammo is worse by orders of magnitude.



This is what steel-case ammo (lacquer AND poly) do in the two AR’s from my collection.

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WWSSD?
What would Skeeter do?

Maybe your AR's are defective.....

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

I shot 12 boxes of Tula today with my Colt Mags with the Magpul followers I had no issues at all. However, with my Pre-ban Thermold mags I did have 3 jamming issues but again, that was a function of bad followers. Other than that...no issues with the ammo.

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This Signature is too Short!

I've shot thousands of rounds of Tula over the last three years with no malfunctions, in both a S&W M&P and a home made rifle with a stainless barrel. One thing I haven't yet done is try to use brass after the Tula in the same range session.

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*Aim small, miss small...

I have been shooting a mixture of Poly or Lacquer with the zinc coated Silver bear in between so far so good. But I am getting away from shooting steel cased ammo. I cant reload them and I don't want stuck cases. Also I dont have a chamber brush yet. Thanks for the info!!

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Grover Oathkeeper

dont like it at all.too damn dirty,smells funny and if you cant hit a garbage can lid at 100 yds with it ya dont need to use it, but my idea of plinking is differnt than everybody else's,i like to hit what i aim at,i have 2 ar's,they do not like it at all

yesterday my father in law and i bought a bunch of wolf and tula ammo from a gun show yesterday and shot maybe 200 rounds(20 or so to zero in my new red dot, the rest were bottle killin, paper shedding plinkin lol) and didnt have any problems.... well except one and that was my fault.. we wont go into that... just had a set screw problem on my freaky gasblock lol..

but anyways other than being dirty like we had previously discussed.... didnt have any problems

I'm all for shooting steel cased ammo, but I wouldn't zero a scope on it, unless you were just zeroing for that session. It's so inconsistent in loads it's hard to get a good zero.

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

I have shot the Tula in my Sport with 0 problems. Off the bench sub 2" 100yds and the brass is in a small pile . This shows me that its uniform in it powder charge when the fired cases stay in a tight pile.

Glad you had good luck with consistency, for the most part, I have too. But I wouldn't bother zeroing in a scope with it.

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

I don't believe one should lump all steel cased ammo into generic statements like that.

Ever shot Hornady's steel cased training ammo?

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Stu

No, and you're right, I forgot about the Zombie Max ammo in steel case, which I'm sure is more consistent loads. However, this thread is about cheap Tulammo, not the more expensive stuff, IIRC.

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Rod
M&P 22A, 40c, 15A, 15-22

I'll agree, this thread is about Tula....which was why I commented on your post since you weren't specifying Tula as being inconsistent....just "steel cased ammo".

I was just clarifying for the folks that are new to ARs and steel cased ammo. Hate to see them get the wrong idea and classify all of it into the low grade bucket, so to speak.

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Stu

i was using some reloaded hornady vmax for the zeroing.... i ran through clips in quick succession with the wolf and tulas.... i love my gun... its so fun and i havent even bought any accessories for it

As someone else once said "once you start you can't stop"

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Grover Oathkeeper

I used Tula yesterday to zero my scopes (new Aimpoints), cleaned the chamber, and followed up with some olake City brass. Zeroing with the Tula did not have any ill effects, and the LC brass was no more accurate that the Tula was.

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*Aim small, miss small...

I have shot hundreds of rounds of tula/wolf/bear with no ftf/fte issues. The only reason I shoot brass now is because I plan to reload.

How small is your garbage can? Tula shoots under 1.5" at 100 yards in my Sport. I have had a couple short stroke. But I'm okay with that for just plinking.

Ive had pretty bad luck with it in an AR and a 9mm. Lots of short stroking and inconsistent powder charges. Kudos to those of you who havent encountered these problems. One thing though the ones that do go bang properly have always been pretty accurate.

My M&P15 hates it. Won't feed more than one round at a time. Brass case has ZERO issues. I've tried a few times using pmags only and have had no luck. On my previous AR it would feed but then proceed to stick in the chamber, only way to remove it was a cleaning rod. I stay away from the .223. I've had no problems with the 9mm though. Brass cased ammo really isn't that much more expensive, especially at Walmart. I really don't see a need to shoot steel case.

many do recommend not using steel and some will void warranty. CMMG comes to mind.

"With the growing popularity of the AR-15/M16 family of rifles the demand for ammunition has risen sharply. Unfortunately, this has made quality ammunition hard to find. CMMG recommends using only domestic, commercially manufactured ammunition or high quality surplus NATO specification ammunition.

Using any reloaded ammunition, any steel cased ammunition or Wolf Ammunition VOIDS your Limited Lifetime Warranty. "

There are a few others that void warranties but I dont feel like digging them all up, I was looking at budget AR builds earlier and stumbled across that haha so it was fresh in my mind.

while shooting today I was watching my ammo very closely. I was expecting stuck cases as I was switching between steel and brass. Anyhow I noticed a non-uniformity with the depth of the Tula Ammo primers. Until I found this one:
tulaprimer1.jpg

Tulaprimer2.jpg

Would you have attempted to shoot it or not? I did not.

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Grover Oathkeeper