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05-03-2012, 01:06 PM
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Trigger work on Sport?
Just wondering if anyone has done (or had done) any sort of trigger work on their 15-Sport?
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05-03-2012, 01:48 PM
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I took my trigger and the areas that slide against each other when pulling the trigger I polished with a carborundum stone, didnt polish a lot just enough to give a silky smooth trigger which helps me on long distance shooting, there is no drag. Improved the trigger immensely, I did it after I did the trigger on my 10-22 so I felt comfortable doing it. Take your time and it is a pretty easy and straight forward kinda trigger job. I did some put it back in and tested it and then took it out and did some more until I was happy.
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05-03-2012, 04:29 PM
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I polished the contact points and replaced with the yellow Jp enterprises spring set. I also tapped the lower receiver above the grip and installed a set screw to reduce take up. the end result is now a smooth and light trigger with virtually no pre travel.
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05-03-2012, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maninblak
I polished the contact points and replaced with the yellow Jp enterprises spring set. I also tapped the lower receiver above the grip and installed a set screw to reduce take up. the end result is now a smooth and light trigger with virtually no pre travel.
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Maninblak
I replaced the factory springs with the JP yellow srping kit. I've only dry fired it and it seemed to make a big difference in the pull weight. Have you had any problem with light hammer strikes and round not going bang?
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05-03-2012, 08:06 PM
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I replaced my entire trigger group with a Geiselle group from Brownell's. I don't think that's what you want to know though.... it was pricey, but worth every penny.
Edit: see the thread titled "Triggers" from a week or so ago.
Regarding having someone else do your trigger work... I had Bill Springfield in Colorado, smooth and lighten two trigger groups for me. (Mr. Springfield is pretty well known over on ar15.com, etc.) When I first put them in, they felt very, very nice. When I shot them, they felt very, very nice also... until they doubled. Both of them did. The first one on an older A2 happened when a friend of mine was shooting it and I saw it happen, and the second one (my S&W Sport) doubled on me after shooting about 300 rounds through it with the re-worked trigger. I promptly pulled them both out and replaced the entire trigger group(s) with the Geiselle triggers. Beautiful things, but as I said - pricey. I won't say anything about Mr. Springfield's work - I may have had him lighten them too much for my particular rifles or whatever. Mr. Springfield was great to deal with and had I called him, I'm sure he would have made the situation right... but I didn't trust the rifles, so I went the route I did.
Last edited by RainDodger; 05-03-2012 at 08:50 PM.
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05-03-2012, 08:59 PM
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I replaced mine with a Timney single stage.
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05-03-2012, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gomizzou1954
Maninblak
I replaced the factory springs with the JP yellow srping kit. I've only dry fired it and it seemed to make a big difference in the pull weight. Have you had any problem with light hammer strikes and round not going bang?
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no, but i did cut the "hook" off of the hammer to remove some weight thus allowing it to move quicker since the springs are much lighter. gtg every shot, 0 problems :-)
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05-03-2012, 10:34 PM
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RainDodger, when I polished my trigger I didnt change the angle of the lock on the hammer or the sear, the only way for it to start firing doubles is to remove so much material that the catch quits catching everytime. You can polish the surfaces up to that area without running the chance of doubling, but you dont reduce the amount of trigger pull you just make it smoother, once you start removing material to lighten the trigger pull, you always run the risk of shortening the life of the trigger. In my case I did not want to do that I just wanted the take up to be smoother and that I accomplished but once you get to the release point it still takes the same amount of pull.
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05-03-2012, 10:56 PM
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My Sport had a trigger pull well over eight pounds. I replaced it with a 4lb Timney trigger and it was worth every penny!!
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05-04-2012, 10:25 AM
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Exactly so, oneyeopm. I kind of rushed into sending my trigger groups to Mr. Springfield ( Bill Springfield - www.TriggerWork.net) without researching. On reflection I don't like messing with the surface hardening or temper of the parts and reducing service life. That's why I ripped everything out and replaced both with the Geiselle SSA-E Enhanced trigger group. The fit and finish of the parts is beyond reproach and I'm totally impressed. No creep, very light. It's a two-stage trigger, which I prefer. Yes, they were fairly expensive, but it's worth it to me to have multiple ARs with the exact same feel, and total peace of mind.
I think any of the drop-in trigger groups from first-line manufacturers like Timney are going to be good. I didn't go with a Wilson because in little bitty print in their description, it says "not recommended for NATO ammunition".... probably referencing potential light strikes.
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05-04-2012, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunfighter48
My Sport had a trigger pull well over eight pounds. I replaced it with a 4lb Timney trigger and it was worth every penny!!
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...and that cost you what? 300.00 or so? on a 600.00 rifle? I was wondering just about a few things we could do ourselves or on the cheap. If it were a 1000.00 rifle I might look to Timney triggers but really, it's a Sport and spending that kind of cash on it, to me anyhow, just seems to ruin the idea of the, "everyman's AR" that they the Sport is. I think I may look into some spring changes and maybe some polishing myself.
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05-04-2012, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Crunch
...and that cost you what? 300.00 or so? on a 600.00 rifle? I was wondering just about a few things we could do ourselves or on the cheap. If it were a 1000.00 rifle I might look to Timney triggers but really, it's a Sport and spending that kind of cash on it, to me anyhow, just seems to ruin the idea of the, "everyman's AR" that they the Sport is. I think I may look into some spring changes and maybe some polishing myself.
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I havent bought a spring kit. But just a bit of polishing with a stone made such a difference, I am glad I did it and it was worth every minute it cost me. I have spent quite a bit on parts and accesories while finding what I like but I still havent spent more than the initial outlay of the gun in all of my parts. With the new upper and long handguard I am getting close but I also am getting close to having all the parts I need to build a second rifle.
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05-04-2012, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Crunch
...and that cost you what? 300.00 or so? on a 600.00 rifle? I was wondering just about a few things we could do ourselves or on the cheap. If it were a 1000.00 rifle I might look to Timney triggers but really, it's a Sport and spending that kind of cash on it, to me anyhow, just seems to ruin the idea of the, "everyman's AR" that they the Sport is. I think I may look into some spring changes and maybe some polishing myself.
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Actually it cost $209.00 and the low price of the Sport allowed me to spend that amount. Had I spent more for the AR I would not have been able to do most of the mods that I wanted to do. It was worth it to me to have a great trigger and 4lbs is where my self defense handguns are set. So no matter what I pick up it's a 4lb trigger pull.
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05-04-2012, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Crunch
...and that cost you what? 300.00 or so? on a 600.00 rifle? I was wondering just about a few things we could do ourselves or on the cheap. If it were a 1000.00 rifle I might look to Timney triggers but really, it's a Sport and spending that kind of cash on it, to me anyhow, just seems to ruin the idea of the, "everyman's AR" that they the Sport is. I think I may look into some spring changes and maybe some polishing myself.
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They can be had for much less than 300, even under 200.00. Just because it's a cheap price to pay for a rifle doesn't mean it's not worthy of a good trigger. As you may notice in the 'tricked out sport' thread, people have spent a lot more on 'bling' than the actual functional benefit of a good trigger would have cost.
The only problem I have with replace a trigger with a nice one like a Timney is, I'd have to do it to the rest of my guns too. Once you shoot something smooth and light, it's hard to go back to something heavy and might feel like two bricks being rubbed together.
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05-04-2012, 04:00 PM
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fluff and buff a trigger ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneyeopn
RainDodger, when I polished my trigger I didnt change the angle of the lock on the hammer or the sear, the only way for it to start firing doubles is to remove so much material that the catch quits catching everytime. You can polish the surfaces up to that area without running the chance of doubling, but you dont reduce the amount of trigger pull you just make it smoother, once you start removing material to lighten the trigger pull, you always run the risk of shortening the life of the trigger. In my case I did not want to do that I just wanted the take up to be smoother and that I accomplished but once you get to the release point it still takes the same amount of pull.
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i wonder what polishing the sport's trigger functioning parts with jewlers rouge would accomplish? i've applied molly grease to the sport's sear notches and it did smooth up a lot but believe it is temporary.
i do fluff and buff to chamber, magazine lips, feed ramp, for smoothness and functioning reliability of my g26 and mouseguns.
never have touched a trigger.
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05-04-2012, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philevans
i wonder what polishing the sport's trigger functioning parts with jewlers rouge would accomplish? i've applied molly grease to the sport's sear notches and it did smooth up a lot but believe it is temporary.
i do fluff and buff to chamber, magazine lips, feed ramp, for smoothness and functioning reliability of my g26 and mouseguns.
never have touched a trigger.
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I used that Jewlers rouge a few times now and I thought it was ok...until I started using mothers. I don't know what they put in Mothers but you can get a smoother/better polish by hand with Mothers than you can with a dremel.
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05-04-2012, 05:13 PM
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I have always used fine stones, I could probably get a better job done with rouge or mothers polishing compound, the two areas that I concentrated on were on the hammer where the trigger locks the hammer back and the trigger itself, it bad enough I will start with varying grits of carborundum stones, small ones about 3/4 in to 1 inch wide about 1/2 inch thick and 4 inches long till I get a nice smooth finish but it isn't a polished finish like you would get with rouge or polishing compound.
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05-04-2012, 06:13 PM
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Well....All I can say is WOW! After reading this thread I decided to disassemble my trigger group and give it a try. I've never taken one apart or polished a trigger sears mating surfaces. I was actually pretty surprised at how easy it was to disassemble and then reassemble. I used the second finest stone from my knife sharping kit. Just the little bit I did has made a HUGE difference. The feel is much smoother and it breaks a lot cleaner. Thanks to everyone for the momentum to get me to try it.
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05-04-2012, 06:16 PM
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My one word of caution is that a person can go to far very fast, in my case all it took was a little bit to make a nice feeling trigger.
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05-04-2012, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneyeopn
My one word of caution is that a person can go to far very fast, in my case all it took was a little bit to make a nice feeling trigger.
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I agree! I took great care when I did it.
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