just purchased this rifle that has the a2 front sight/gas block, I want to remove this due to it causing me to use a 1 inch riser to get the scope to clear the front sight.. Now I read a few posts about removing this gas block but its always a diff gas block not the one I have. So my question is I am looking to remove this gas block and also remove the guard on the barrel and going with either a free floating quad rail I really like this one https://www.primaryarms.com/YHM-Todd...hm-5007-tj.htm

what else do I need to complete this installation I have yet to pick out a gas block because I want one that has a flip up sight and also has a lower rail on it but not a upper rail.

All you'll need is a free floating foreend and a gas block. You'll also need the ability to remove your flash hider and barrel nut - if you don't already have tools for those (especially the barrel nut), I recommend this one: Amazon.com: Tapco Intrafuse AR Armorer's Tool: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31tZD1UDGiL.@@AMEPARAM@@31tZD1UDGiL.

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Slow is smooth, smooth is fast

Gas block pins are typically tapered and pressed in, so I use a press to push them out. If you drive them out (with a pin punch) you have to drive them out the opposite way they went in. That means there's a small end and a big end. You have to push/drive from the small end. I fix boogered-up ARs from "armchair gunsmiths" who attempt this at home, all the time. They usually peen one end of one or both pins over, and often scratch the heck out of the barrel in the bargain. I typically charge them a dumb*** fee for fixing their mistakes, so my advice to you is go ahead and whack away!

IF you are using a normal scope (not a red dot) you don't need to remove the front sight. You'll never see it through the scope.

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THIS WE'LL DEFEND ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

As Maddmax said, If you are doing this all for a scope to "clear" the front sight, it may not be necessary. With a 3x or higher scope, the focal point is out in front of the front sight base. What this means is that you won't even see the front sight base.

Just got my sport a week ago.put on a Burris pepr mount with redfield battlezone scope.No front sight issue at all.

Welcome to the forum. If your mounting a scope, try it out first. If you do decide to ff it,take it to a gunsmith. They typically warranty their work, which is important because you will have just voided S&Ws.

1. A low profile gas block.

2. Punches

3. Non marring hammer

4. AR armorer's wrench

5. Torque Wrench

6. Upper vise block

7. Vise

My question is why you want an integrated railed flip up front sight gas block combo. You have a carbine length gas system, and that will be the limiting factor. You install that integrated gas block flip up sight, and you're stuck with a carbine length handguard. You're going to be taking it apart this farm might as well install a low pro gas block and a longer free float handguard. You'll get a longer sight radius, more fore end space, and the ability to mount rails wherever you need them.



15-Sport, YHM low pro gas block, 15" Troy Alpha Rail.

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-John

well when I purchased the rifle I also purchased this scope and the store that I purchased it from said when he mounted it he could see the front sight post and it was in the way... so he added a one inch riser to the rail which pushed the scope up higher I don't like the way it looks I know that's kinda crazy but it also makes my sight picture diff then what I am used to doing I have to hold the stock basically at the bottom of my cheek almost on my jawline.. I learned to shoot this rifle in the Army so I kinda have a way I like to shoot it and with the setup the way it is its just not possible don't get me wrong I was able to keep a group at 50 yards inside the size of a quarter just would like to remove that front sight and also add the rail that I posted because it keeps my hand from having to rest on the rails I don't like the way they feel in my hands. also I don't think the front guards come off my rifle I tried to remove them and they didn't come off in the same fashion as the m16-a2 did

Attached Images

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Compress the delta ring. Separate the halves of the stock handguard.

http://youtu.be/dcT44a04yqg

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-John

yeah I feel stupid I looked at this gun like I did my a2 rifle and yeah there is not a gap between the two halves I tried and tried to separate them but it took two people I guess the newness of gun plus better fit finish of gun

The front guards come off the same way they do in the military issue rifles. It can be quite the challenge to get them off, though.

Personally, I don't think you should need a riser. As mentioned, with a 3x power scope you won't even notice the front sight, but I have to ask, what kind of optic is that? It almost looks like a cheap red dot. If so, that could be causing an issue, too.

What you are looking for is this:

http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=p...products_id=10



The 15-Sport's front sight post uses tapered pins, and you must beat them out in the right direction. I can't recall right to left or left to right. You'll need a roll pin punch to remove/install the gas tube.

Just to confirm: You don't have an issue with the carbine length handguard. You don't want to have quad rails running down the entire length of the fore end.

https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com...tegory_ID=1204

https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com...tegory_ID=1210

They have more options.

I still advise that because you're going to go through the pain of pounding out the A2 front sight post, you might as well drop in a longer modular handguard. Mount a folding iron sight to the top rail of the handguard. Affix a small section of rail to the bottom to support a bi-pod.

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-John

4x32 Tri-Ill Scp W/Single Wr - 1552827, Scopes at Sportsman's Guide

and this is not the perm. scope.. also I really want a diff gas block I know everyone things I should keep the front sight but to each his own.. I plan to add a front undermount IR flashlight a fold away top mount night optic that flips infront of a 4x scope of some type..

I don't think you should keep the front A2 sight post. I got rid of mine. I'm of the opinion that you don't need a gas block with an integrated folding sight & bottom rail to accomplish your goal. I think a modular fore end system will work the best for what you want to do.

IMO, this is the best part of AR-15 ownership. You can make it exactly the way you want it, no matter what anyone else thinks. Look around different AR accessory websites. Check out the photo thread for ideas.

M&P15 picture thread

Chances are that someone has their rifle set up almost the way you'd want yours.

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-John

okay so I did some reading and I am not seeing anything really that explains the benefit of free floating or how to achieve it on this rifle I think I need to do the gas block at the same time.. but there is some nut or something that I have to change sorry I am a newb at this and if someone could point me to a good post that talks about disassembling this rifle that would be awesome.... ps I know how to break it down and clean it did that god knows how many times in the Army but we never broke them down to the extent of changing parts like this..

The benefit of free floating is better accuracy. Nothing touches the barrel.

Think of the AR-15, the barrel end in it's parts, and work logically backwards. It's like being a kid again playing with legos.

Remove the handguards. An AR-15 handguard removal tool makes this easy.

The A2-front sight post slips over the barrel positioned over the gas port. To remove the A2-Front sight post, you'll need to remove the flash hider. Use an AR-15 Armorer's wrench to unscrew the flash hider from the barrel. Be careful not to ding the crown or the threads. You'll also want to have a new muzzle device washer on hand.

The front sight post and gas tube slides off, the little plate that the front of a two piece handguard hooks into slides off. There is a small roll pin that affixes the gas tube to the front sight post gas block. Tap out that pin, slide out the gas tube.

Remove the Delta Ring & Spring.

Some free float handguards are designed to use the stock barrel nut. For example, the Troy Alpha rail uses the stock barrel nut. Others use a proprietary barrel nut. If you have to remove the barrel nut, you'll need an upper receiver vise block, a vise, an AR-15 armorer's wrench.

Installation is the reverse sequence. Barrel, torque down barrel nut, affix gas tube to gas block, affix gas block to the barrel & line up the gas tube, affix muzzle device, affix free float tube.

This guy has an outstanding series on building an AR-15 from start to finish. Just make sure you view the video's in order. He didn't order them in a playlist.

gavintoobe - YouTube

The video on the barrel, gas block and gas tube:

AR-MPR AR-15 Build: Upper Part 2: Barrel, Gas Block, Gas Tube - YouTube

You'll see that the AR-15 is the adult equivalent of legos. I bet you'll eventually build one from parts.

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-John

I'll throw another wrinkle. If this AR-15 enthusiast who is very easy on the eyes can install a free float handguard, you can.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FApgE0eLWNo

She accomplishes the task without removing the barrel nut. She carefully uses a dremel to cut off the delta ring and carefully pries off the delta ring spring. She chooses a free float handguard that uses a stock barrel nut. No need for a vise block, armorer's wrench, torque wrench, etc. She just works very slow and careful.

If you want to, you can even cut down the A2 front sight post to make a low profile gas block.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sBqDpi-Cb4

For $33.50, I'd rather just buy this than go through the trouble.

http://yhm.net/index.php?main_page=p...products_id=41

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-John