Single or two stage trigger on stock 15 sport?

If I were to buy a after market trigger for my sport what would I want? I think my stock trigger is a two stage because when I shoot I hold the trigger in then let I out one click to reshoot. Dose this mean it's a two stage? I like this trigger with the click. Can some one shead some light on this thanks.

Nope. Your 15-Sport has a stock combat trigger. Pull trigger, constant pressure through the trigger break. Boom. Action cycles. The BCG's rearward movement cocks the hammer. When you let off the trigger and get the audible "click", that's your trigger resetting.

2-Stage trigger = light take up then you hit a "wall". That wall is the exact point where the trigger will break with light pressure. Light takeup to wall. Pull through wall. BOOM. Action cycles. BCG resets hammer. Let finger off trigger, you get a "click". The click is the sound of your trigger resetting.

What type of shooting are you doing? Are you close/medium range shooter? Have you popped on a magnified optic and are looking for bullseye accuracy and precision at ranges over 100 yards? If so, a 2-stage trigger is good. If not, look into an ALG defense ACT combat trigger.

If possible, pull the trigger on a rifle equipped with a 2-stage trigger to see if you like it.

If I'm trying to understand you correctly, that's the trigger resetting after you shoot. You pull trigger and it goes bang. Then let out slowly and you'll feel the click (reset) then your ready to shoot again.

oooops sorry I posted before seeing JaPes response. We both said same thing.

What type of shooting are you doing? Why do you want to change from the stock combat trigger?

Florida J Frame said:

What type of shooting are you doing? Why do you want to change from the stock combat trigger?

Click to expand...

Exactly.

The progression usually goes...

Stock Combat Trigger ► Stock Combat Trigger w/polish job ► ALG Defense ACT Combat Trigger ► $80 - $110 2-stage Trigger (such as Rock River Arms) ► $110+ 2-Stage Triggers the likes of Timney, Geisele, CMC, etc...

Most everyone will do just fine with a stock combat trigger.

Trigger

Dfresh15 said:

If I'm trying to understand you correctly, that's the trigger resetting after you shoot. You pull trigger and it goes bang. Then let out slowly and you'll feel the click (reset) then your ready to shoot again.

Click to expand...

Yes that's correct. So the stock trigger is single stage. am I correct by saying this.

trigger

JaPes said:

Nope. Your 15-Sport has a stock combat trigger. Pull trigger, constant pressure through the trigger break. Boom. Action cycles. The BCG's rearward movement cocks the hammer. When you let off the trigger and get the audible "click", that's your trigger resetting.

2-Stage trigger = light take up then you hit a "wall". That wall is the exact point where the trigger will break with light pressure. Light takeup to wall. Pull through wall. BOOM. Action cycles. BCG resets hammer. Let finger off trigger, you get a "click". The click is the sound of your trigger resetting.

What type of shooting are you doing? Are you close/medium range shooter? Have you popped on a magnified optic and are looking for bullseye accuracy and precision at ranges over 100 yards? If so, a 2-stage trigger is good. If not, look into an ALG defense ACT combat trigger.

If possible, pull the trigger on a rifle equipped with a 2-stage trigger to see if you like it.

Click to expand...

So the stock trigger is single? I mainly target shoot. Going to be shooting at 100 & 200 yrds. In steel matches at my club. Don't get me wrong, I'm used to the stock trigger and like it. But didn't know the difference between 1 & 2 stage triggers. Some day I may buy a aftermarket trigger if it will help with my shooting. Im not rushing into it. Just looking to gain some knowledge on the subject.

This is a pretty comprehensive listing of trigger terms and behaviors.

Ask Foghorn: Trigger Terminology - The Truth About Guns

A single Stage Trigger from the factory will likely have some hammer cam. The sear to hammer angles are positive causing the trigger to cam the hammer back further as the trigger is pulled. Very safe heavy trigger that protects the Mfg from liability.

If you remove the lower you will be able to see what I am referring to when you pull the trigger slowly. The hammer will move rearward. A gunsmith can polish surfaces, adjust sear angles to less positive to nearly neutral, and swap springs. I've gone as far as installing a trigger over travel set screw and a sear engagement adjustment screw. A stock trigger can be tuned to be VERY nice. Consistency and safety of a super tuned stock trigger may change over the course of a few 1000 rounds though so I wouldn't recommend it for most people.

The benefit of a 2 stage trigger is the percent of sear engagement. The sear surfaces have lots of engagement when the trigger is at rest. Taking up the first stage brings the sear near to the breaking point at which time a wall is hit increasing the necessary pressure to release the sear. Very safe and will stay safe over thousands of rounds.

A 4.5 pound single stage trigger will not be as easy for most to shoot accurately as a 4.5 pound two stage. In a two stage the take up is usually 2 pounds and only 2.5 pounds of additional pressure is needed to break the sear in the second stage. Most pure target bench rifles have a single stage trigger but it has been adjusted very low. Not great for AR15s.

Dan Camaro said:

So the stock trigger is single? I mainly target shoot. Going to be shooting at 100 & 200 yrds. In steel matches at my club. Don't get me wrong, I'm used to the stock trigger and like it. But didn't know the difference between 1 & 2 stage triggers. Some day I may buy a aftermarket trigger if it will help with my shooting. Im not rushing into it. Just looking to gain some knowledge on the subject.

Click to expand...

Yes. The S&W M&P 15-Sport is issued with a stock, single stage, combat trigger. Constant trigger press until the trigger breaks. A 2-stage trigger has a light take up, then you feel a hard wall where the trigger will break with another little bit of pressure.

If you're shooting 100 - 200 yards, my advice in progressive order:

1. Get a magnified optic. Get a scope. You can't hit what you can't see. A red dot ain't going to cut it.

2. Get a Rock River Arms 2-stage varmint trigger. I found mine for $90. I didn't have to go spend big $$$ to get a decent 2-stage trigger.

3. Free float your barrel.

Implement the mods in progressive order. When you do not see any more improvement, do the next mod in line.

Good luck.

JaPes said:

Exactly.

The progression usually goes...

Stock Combat Trigger ► Stock Combat Trigger w/polish job ► ALG Defense ACT Combat Trigger ► $80 - $110 2-stage Trigger (such as Rock River Arms) ► $110+ 2-Stage Triggers the likes of Timney, Geisele, CMC, etc...

Most everyone will do just fine with a stock combat trigger.

Click to expand...

I put a Timney trigger in my AR when I built it and it is NOT a "2 stage" trigger. Fact is that it's a precision Single Stage trigger with about as much pre travel as a cocked S&W revolver. Meaning there isn't ANY detectable pre travel and it breaks when you apply the correct amount of force, in my case that is 3 lbs. 3 ounces per my Lyman digital trigger gage. I can also state that these triggers are not cheap, got mine on sale for 199.99 at Midway and they are on sale again right now.

Yeah, it's not an inexpensive trigger. However, when your goal is a sub 1/2 MOA rifle inexpensive isn't a part of the equation. In addition a precision trigger makes it much much easier to get to the 1/2 MOA level in actual live fire.

JaPes said:

Yes. The S&W M&P 15-Sport is issued with a stock, single stage, combat trigger. Constant trigger press until the trigger breaks. A 2-stage trigger has a light take up, then you feel a hard wall where the trigger will break with another little bit of pressure.

If you're shooting 100 - 200 yards, my advice in progressive order:

1. Get a magnified optic. Get a scope. You can't hit what you can't see. A red dot ain't going to cut it.

2. Get a Rock River Arms 2-stage varmint trigger. I found mine for $90. I didn't have to go spend big $$$ to get a decent 2-stage trigger.

3. Free float your barrel.

Implement the mods in progressive order. When you do not see any more improvement, do the next mod in line.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

All good advice! Note that US military rifles used to come with 2 stage triggers. The 1917, 1903, 30 M1, and .30 M1 carbine all have 2 stage triggers.

Another help for long range accuracy is a good GI M1-M14 web sling, practicing proper breath control, and good trigger release.

Hey guys, been awhile since i replied around here, but here is my response for the OP -- listen to JaPes...
If money is absolutely no object, run to the Geisselle trigger, but very close in performance for much less is the RRA NM 2-stage...in fact, i commonly refer to it as the "best bang for your buck" trigger on the market...the only single stages i run are in my SBRs, two of them are ALG ACTs with yellow JP springs (be careful of the primers you use with lighter springs, as there have been a few reports of FTF with light strikes, but i have never had an issue -- mainly i run Rem 7.5 primers)...in all of my longer ARs, i run 2-stages, several Geisselle's and several RRAs...i tried a few others, but never found reason to vary from what works well...