M&P sport 2

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hugger-4641

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Hi, newbie to Ar's and this forum.
I've read many threads like this one, but I still haven't gleaned exactly what I'm looking for, so please bear with me!
I just bought a "new in box" M&P sport 2 and so far I'm thrilled. I've only had time to shoot about 100 rounds of 5.56 50grain target loads and 50 rounds of .223 55gr jhp. I just bought a 420round can of 62gr fmj green tip, hoping to shoot some of them this weekend! Anyway, to my questions:
1. I can't seem to positively narrow down what gas system this thing has, can anyone tell me for sure is it carbine or mid-length?
2. I'm looking at a 16", 1/7, chrome vanadium barrel and 15" free float hand guard. I know I'll have to change the gas block, but I'd like some opinions on a front sight. Would I be better to get a shorter guard and keep a barrel mounted sight or do most people find rail mounted sights work better with a free float guard?
Any opinions welcome!
Thanks!
 
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Its got a Carbine gas system. If you're buying a barrel, you can get whatever you want. Will just have to get the corresponding gas tube for it though if its not a carbine style barrel.
 
hugger-4641 said:
1. I can't seem to positively narrow down what gas system this thing has, can anyone tell me for sure is it carbine or mid-length?
2. I'm looking at a 16", 1/7, chrome vanadium barrel and 15" free float hand guard. I know I'll have to change the gas block, but I'd like some opinions on a front sight. Would I be better to get a shorter guard and keep a barrel mounted sight or do most people find rail mounted sights work better with a free float guard?
Any opinions welcome!
Thanks!
Click to expand...

1. Sport -Carbine gas system. If you're buying a new 16in barrel, mid-length gas systems are becoming popular because they're a bit softer shooting than carbine gas system with a 16in barrel.

2. Most folks I see install a longer freefloat handagurd. It allows for extended support hand positions and more position options mounting accessories. Also a bit longer sight radius when using irons. Folding sights are what most folks go with. There are a ton of freefloat handguards to choose from. The smaller diameter with Keymod or M-LOK mounting designs are very popular.
 
Thanks for the replies! I guess I need to find a shop that has some examples I can put my hands on. I like the idea of a longer sight radius. Not sure if a sllim design handguard is what I want, but the key mod sounds appealing. I see handguards from $35 to $200, how in the world does one determine a quality product from the dregs?
 
The number of handguard choices can be overwhelming...

I like some of the Midwest Industries designs. BCM, Troy, UTG Pro, Yankee Hill... on and on and on.

I'd probably first narrow down the generalities and priorities.
Diameter slim or otherwise.
Keymod, M-LOK, quad rail, smooth...
Length and weight. There can be considerable differences in weight from one design to another.

Happy handguard hunting...
 
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Thanks! I have narrowed down that I want keymod, Pic. rails, aluminum but with steel barrel nut. I am not too concerned about weight, but is there a point that might start being a concern for stress on this reciever?
 
When you get into the more expensive handguards, you will notice that they are generally lighter. Similar to drop in handguards for a carbine to just replace the plastic handguards. I have a $145 Daniel Defense drop in and my cousin has a $50 UTG. Both work well, they are just chunks of aluminum. But mine weighs nearly half of his. Just about anything you get will work fine, its just whether or not you are happy with it. Think of what the rifle comes with - 2 pieces of plastic. They work fine as well.
 
Not exactly unhappy with the barrel, but my understanding is that the 1/9 twist is better for stabilizing heavier rounds and 1/7 is better for lighter rounds. The main "work load" of this rifle will be shooting coyotes at 300yds or less, but I also want to do some long range shooting. I just want to be able to switch barrels back and forth and do some reloading and testing of my own. Along the way I may decide I want to just pick up a second AR, but until then, I want to be able to switch barrels.
 
hugger-4641 said:
Not exactly unhappy with the barrel, but my understanding is that the 1/9 twist is better for stabilizing heavier rounds and 1/7 is better for lighter rounds. The main "work load" of this rifle will be shooting coyotes at 300yds or less, but I also want to do some long range shooting. I just want to be able to switch barrels back and forth and do some reloading and testing of my own. Along the way I may decide I want to just pick up a second AR, but until then, I want to be able to switch barrels.
Click to expand...
Your understanding is backwards... 1/7 is for heavier loads, longer actually. A 1/9 twist will work fine for what you plan to use it for. And swapping a barrel back and forth is not very realistic. You would be better off getting another complete upper so that you could swap them by just pulling the two pins.
 
Additionally, with the 2nd upper you won't have to worry about having to re -zero each time you swap. Sights will stay with the upper.
 
Thanks for straightening me out on the twist, my fingers didn't type what I meant! I plan to use heavier loads for long range. Right now all the ammo I've seen on shelves is 45 to 60gr and I'd like to play around with some 80 to 90 grain at 400yds or more. What I shot the other day was hitting a milk jug fine at 100yds free hand. That's pretty good for my eyes and conditioning, not to mention a rifle right out of the box. I was impressed. Next time I'll get on some sand bags and try to zero in and see how tight a group I can get, but at this point, I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get that same group at 200yds or more on a bipod or bags.
I see the point about just getting another upper, I may do that based on these comments.
 
You would need the faster twist rate for 80 gr rounds... but at that point, they no longer fit in the magazine either. Maybe you really want a new bolt gun to go with your AR! :D
 
I was not aware the 80gr rounds would not fit in the mag! I presume I missed some humor, but what do you mean by "new bolt gun"?
 
hugger-4641 said:
I was not aware the 80gr rounds would not fit in the mag! I presume I missed some humor, but what do you mean by "new bolt gun"?
Click to expand...

Get a bolt action rifle for your long range shooting with the heavy rounds since you will have to feed them by hand.
 
Oh...gotcha. Well, I am looking at the Thompson Center 30.06 for that same reason! But, as for this Ar, I was hoping to play with some heavier loads in it! I wouldn't want to have to hand feed every round. Is there not a mag with modified followers that will handle these rounds or would it be possible to seat the bullet further back in the case?
 
It's not so much a follower issue, but the fact that the mag itself limits length. And if you try seating the heavy bullets deeper, you start jacking up the pressure levels. 77's will work but the 80's and 90's are real long. In fact the 90's are just over 1 1/8 inches in length.

The 77's will work out to 400+, so you should be good there with a 1/7 barrel. Main thing with long range accuracy, is keeping the bullet supersonic. Once they go subsonic, they loose stability and then accuracy goes.
 
I would just shoot what you have at the longest range you expect to use. Then check the strikes. If they aren't round holes, then the bullet is loosing stability and thus accuracy. Only then would I think about changing barrels. But keep in mind that ammo can vary from one brand to the next.

Also note that heavy bullets have different arch path than lighter bullets so setting up for one weight bullets won't give the same target results. Instead of swapping barrels for various shooting applications, you might consider swapping sights. Scopes, dots and lasers can all be zeroed at different distances. To make it even easier, use quick release sight mounts for each.

Kind of late now but you should have considered building your AR. It costs less overall than changing parts on an existing rifle.

Just my $0.02.
 
That's ok, it may be too late to build this Ar, but it won't be my last, so thanks for that advice!
After the advice I've read here, I have purchased a complete upper with 16" carbine, chrome vanadium, 1/7, and a 15" aluminum free float guard with flip up front sight. So after I get all this stuff in , I think all I have to do is get a lower, charge handle, bolt, and stock, and I'll have second AR!
Have I missed anything? Any body got a lower they don't need! :D
 
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