UPDATE:

User error, mine. I had "gently" lowered the bolt carrier which left it out of battery that I did not notice. When I pulled the trigger, the hammer "nudged" the carrier to move forward into battery when the firing pin, shallowly dimpled the primer.

I had just replaced the stock with a one-piece and installed the bipod mount on the foreshock. Cycling the action, I had again, gently lowered the bolt carrier only to noticed the exhaust ports were not at the right place. Watching while dry firing the trigger, I witnessed the bolt carrier move into battery with the hammer riding, not hitting the firing pin.

There can be many reasons for a light strike but this one is much easier to correct.

I am still not happy with the fouling on the firing pin flange. I have three, additional firing pins coming: stainless steel; titanium, and; boron-nitride. I'll compare the relative fouling with an equal number of rounds on the OEM firing pin. I'll rank them and which ever is "less bad" will become my default. The others will be 'spares.'

Until I compare rounds on the range, I can't call True Velocity a problem.

Bob Wilson

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My 4th round had a light-strike failure. Subsequent cleaning showed a higher than expected fouling on the firing pin flange.

Has anyone seen similar problems with True Velocity?

I see both titanium and stainless steel, after market firing pins. I trust stainless steel to reduce fouling but no experience with titanium. Anyone?

One workaround may be "Super Lube 21010", a high temperature extreme stress grease. I suspect the first round will blow it out the bolt tail and firing pin but if it reduces fouling, it may work. Anyone try this?

I have the discontinued, Sport II, and like everyone else, I'm making it mine. We can chat about that after testing.

OK, because of hot combustion gasses entering the bolt carrier, you shouldn't use petroleum based lubes on the bolt body, firing pin or the bolt bore in the bolt carrier. NEVER USE GREASE! Also, going by your rough description, I expect you're over lubing the area. You want a thin film, very thin, of synthetic lube in that area. OBTW, the powder selection by the ammunition companies can make a difference in the amount of crud left in the firearm.

Waaaay back in the day, the preferred lube was an industrial dry film lube (goes on wet, dries to form the film) branded as Dri-Slide. Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil (20w-50 or so) Mil-Tec and the military LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms) all work when properly applied. There's tons of others. My personal preference is Dri-Slide, but I'm an old coot.

BTW, the various do-it-all products don't do as good a job as dedicated products. Example: Hoppes #9 for cleaning, your choices for lubrication and protection of metal surfaces.

Try and find a reprint of the military manual for the M4 or similar designations. There's relevant parts here somewhere with lubrication instructions.

Don't 'Gently Lower' the bolt carrier/charging handle ever when loading a round. You're just inducing problems. Let the bolt go forward under the full force of the buffer spring. Also, the AR/M16 platform has a 'floating' firing pin. You will notice a light dimple on the primer if you extract an already chambered round. And like WR said, Don't Use Grease on the bolt carrier. A light to moderate coat of a good lubricant is all that's needed. No need to run them 'wet' like a lot of folks think. Proper lubrication is all that's needed.

AR/M16 Firing pins get dirty, so does the bolt. It's the nature of the beast.

Sounds to me like you might benefit from a little education on the operation/manual of arms & cleaning/maintenance of the AR platform. Do some research and/or have someone who is actually KNOWLEDGABLE on the AR/M16 platform help you.

__________________
SIC SEMPER TYRANNIS

I didn't want to confuse the issue, but one place I do use a wee dab of high temperature moly base grease (if available) is on the bolt cam surfaces of the carrier. There's little or no combustion gases there. NOTE: a "wee dab" is not the same as a "wee dram" of distilled highland malt beverages.

Let the bolt slam home. If you need to walk the bolt home, get another gun.

After a thorough cleaning, I always lightly oil and wipe all BCG parts. Same with charging handle.

Here's a good starting point regarding the lubrication of your bolt carrier group.

I lubricate my BCGs with Breakfree Synthetic Gun Oil, because since it has no solvents, it's more viscous than the CLP, but either will work.

https://youtu.be/6EuiUhPLifA?si=3yAtyxl-rtxPrz3u