SD9VE's tough take down/disassembly

[mkwong]

Hi Everyone, I am a proud new owner of my own SD9VE which I got for a great price at $299.99 at Academy. My main question has been the difficulty I have in field stripping it. I just can't seem to get my fingers to pull down those tiny little take down levers on each side, while pulling the slide forward at the same time. Has anyone else experienced this? Any better way to do this?

[MyDads38]

I remember the first few times I took mine down-not an easy task! Afterwards though, it got easier and now is not a problem. You can get extended take down levers for the SD/VE that makes it easier. Give it a few more times and see if it gets easier for you.

[Vadi]

Grip it in your hand normally. Keeping the web of your thumb under the beaver tail, rotate your fingers up over the slide.

Using that grip, pull the slide back slightly (1/2 in or so), then pull the tabs down with your free hand, and let go of the slide.

Once you release, grab it again on top and pull the trigger (triple check it's unloaded of course). It will slide right off.

Image from Google for a Glock, but same grip takedown.

[bootman]

I got an extended takedown lever from Galloway Precision. The only way is to get the extension or grind a relief with your dremmel (I was afraid of the dremmel) Galloway has several neat little accessories for several guns.

[martybee]

Practice, practice, practice.
After a few sessions it will come easy!

mb

[star1]

extended take down lever, you won't regret it ! Got mine from Ebay
Easy install , just hold a little pressure on that flat spring so it doesn't go flying (don't ask how I know ! )

Norm

[shawn mccarver]

Originally Posted by mkwong

Hi Everyone, I am a proud new owner of my own SD9VE which I got for a great price at $299.99 at Academy. My main question has been the difficulty I have in field stripping it. I just can't seem to get my fingers to pull down those tiny little take down levers on each side, while pulling the slide forward at the same time. Has anyone else experienced this? Any better way to do this?

You don't pull the slide FORWARD. Pull the slide slightly to the rear, just enough to relieve the pressure on the locking bar.

The easiest way (I would say do it like you do your Glock, but if you had a Glock, we likely would not be having this conversation) is to (assuming you are right handed) place right hand thumb just under the beavertail, and close your hand so that the four fingers of the right hand are wrapped over the top of the slide. Then, with your left hand, reach up under the dust cover, cupping your hand around the bottom of the dust cover and frame so that, simultaneously, your left hand thumb is on the end of the locking bar on the left hand side of the pistol, and your right hand middle finger is on the end of the locking bar on the right hand side of the pistol. Then, "close" your right hand enough to cause the slide to retract just enough to relieve the pressure on the locking bar while at the same time pulling down on both sides of the locking bar AT THE SAME TIME with the thumb and middle finger of the left hand. Once you have the locking bar pulled down on both sides, release your right hand grip, and allow the slide to go forward. Make sure you do not allow it to slide off onto the floor or hard surface. The locking bar is one piece which protrudes slightly on both sides of the pistol. The idea is to pull both ends of it down at the same time. I hope that helps.

I STRONGLY recommend against extended locking bars as mentioned in posts above, as they can interfere with proper holstering.

[mkwong]

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

You don't pull the slide FORWARD. Pull the slide slightly to the rear, just enough to relieve the pressure on the locking bar.

The easiest way (I would say do it like you do your Glock, but if you had a Glock, we likely would not be having this conversation) is to (assuming you are right handed) place right hand thumb just under the beavertail, and close your hand so that the four fingers of the right hand are wrapped over the top of the slide. Then, with your left hand, reach up under the dust cover, cupping your hand around the bottom of the dust cover and frame so that, simultaneously, your left hand thumb is on the end of the locking bar on the left hand side of the pistol, and your right hand middle finger is on the end of the locking bar on the right hand side of the pistol. Then, "close" your right hand enough to cause the slide to retract just enough to relieve the pressure on the locking bar while at the same time pulling down on both sides of the locking bar AT THE SAME TIME with the thumb and middle finger of the left hand. Once you have the locking bar pulled down on both sides, release your right hand grip, and allow the slide to go forward. Make sure you do not allow it to slide off onto the floor or hard surface. The locking bar is one piece which protrudes slightly on both sides of the pistol. The idea is to pull both ends of it down at the same time. I hope that helps.

I STRONGLY recommend against extended locking bars as mentioned in posts above, as they can interfere with proper holstering.

Outstanding, took some practice, but now it works like a charm. Many thanks!

[mkwong]

Originally Posted by Vadi

Grip it in your hand normally. Keeping the web of your thumb under the beaver tail, rotate your fingers up over the slide.

Using that grip, pull the slide back slightly (1/2 in or so), then pull the tabs down with your free hand, and let go of the slide.

Once you release, grab it again on top and pull the trigger (triple check it's unloaded of course). It will slide right off.

Image from Google for a Glock, but same grip takedown.

I like the picture. This took a few more tries, but now this works like a charm, many thanks!

[star1]

Mine with the extended bar goes right in and out of my holster(Blackhawk Serpa) just fine. I think the bar is about 1mm longer than the stock one but makes a HUGE difference in take down. I've found as I get older my hands aren't anywhere near as strong as they used to be
Norm

[ou1954]

Originally Posted by star1

Mine with the extended bar goes right in and out of my holster(Blackhawk Serpa) just fine. I think the bar is about 1mm longer than the stock one but makes a HUGE difference in take down. I've found as I get older my hands aren't anywhere near as strong as they used to be
Norm

I still prefer the one I got from NDZ Performance.

I once said that is only 1mm longer and works great, no problem at all.

It's actually .98 mm longer, laser cut, and available in black or stainless. Amazing how much that length difference makes.

No more sore fingers, etc.

[mak1965]

Just put the galloway extended plate in, took 3 mins at the most. Much easier takedown!

[Steve89052]

I got mine for my SD40 from Lone Wolf Co. It's actually for all glocks, but is universal for the S&W. Makes a big difference on the take-down. Struggled on the original lever, but this one make it easy. No rubbing or snagging on my holster.

Lone Wolf Distributors - Products - Extended Slide Lock

[GKC]

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

I STRONGLY recommend against extended locking bars as mentioned in posts above, as they can interfere with proper holstering.

I've had two different versions of an extended locking bar, and neither one extended far enough to cause any problems with holstering. In fact, they don't extend much further than the stock lever...but just enough to get a better grip.

[ou1954]

Originally Posted by GKC

I've had two different versions of an extended locking bar, and neither one extended far enough to cause any problems with holstering. In fact, they don't extend much further than the stock lever...but just enough to get a better grip.

Like the old cigarette ad. "A silly little millimeter . . ." actually makes an amazing difference, or .98 mm in the NDZ model.

[osbornk]

I had difficulty with mine the first few times but it is now slick and easy in stock form. You only move the slide back a very little bit.

[ou1954]

Originally Posted by osbornk

I had difficulty with mine the first few times but it is now slick and easy in stock form. You only move the slide back a very little bit.

Maybe I should have waited but with the stock bar I had to put some cloth on the ends to not bruise my fingers. The slightly longer one cured that.

On the other hand, there is a slight chance that with repeated disassembly something might have loosened up.

Anyhow, now it's a trivial issue now . . . Maybe I'm trained.

[osbornk]

Originally Posted by ou1954

Maybe I should have waited but with the stock bar I had to put some cloth on the ends to not bruise my fingers. The slightly longer one cured that.

On the other hand, there is a slight chance that with repeated disassembly something might have loosened up.

Anyhow, now it's a trivial issue now . . . Maybe I'm trained.

It was probably mostly training. When I first got mine and I had problems, I put longer take down levers on my watch list or wish list at Amazon, E-Bay and other locations and planned on picking one and ordering it. However, I procrastinated and I soon realized I no longer had an issue with the stock one. I went back and removed them.

[martybee]

Originally Posted by osbornk

It was probably mostly training. When I first got mine and I had problems, I put longer take down levers on my watch list or wish list at Amazon, E-Bay and other locations and planned on picking one and ordering it. However, I procrastinated and I soon realized I no longer had an issue with the stock one. I went back and removed them.

Likewise! After a few practice sessions, I found the takedown to be very fast and easy. I can remove the slide in less than 2-seconds.
I find the SD40ve a very good choice, both for TP and HD.
I got mine new in 2013 from a FFL friend for $275. I don't have any intention on giving it up!

mb

[scwv67]

Taking down the SD is one of those things that has to be done a certain way. Once you learn it, it's easy.

Barring some sort of medical condition with a persons digits, if the takedown levers are a source of pain or seem to require a lot of strength to manipulate, then you're doing it wrong.

The easiest way for me is similar to the Glock method above. While gripping the pistol in my right hand as illustrated, I apply just a slight downward pressure on the lever with my index finger and thumb. By slight, I mean slight. Not grunting with effort, raising blood blisters, removing fingerprints or flesh kind of pressure, but slight. IOW, just apply a slight pre-load on the lever before moving the slide back.

Rock the slide back with your right hand, probably only a 1/4" of so, you will then feel the lever drop slightly after the pressure of the slide is removed. It doesn't have to drop far. As soon as you feel your fingers move, loosen you grip on the slide. Ta, Dah!

It is a bit finicky, but once you have it, no more struggle. Again, if it's causing pain or requiring a lot of strength, you're doing it wrong.

FWIW, I suffer from carpal tunnel and have some nerve issues in my extremities.

[GKC]

Originally Posted by ou1954

Like the old cigarette ad. "A silly little millimeter . . ." actually makes an amazing difference, or .98 mm in the NDZ model.

Of the two versions I've had, Galloway and Lone Wolf, I prefer the Galloway. It's tapered, so the top of the lever is almost flash with the frame, while the bottom sticks out more, at an angle...makes gripping it for a downward pull seem easier.

[nicolasfroelich]

I actually modified the frame on mine to solve this problem!

https://instagram.com/p/7mDP90i6cb/

[S&W Rover]

I've got the Galloway lever on mine -- I like it a lot. For $12, it made the pistol easier for me to live with. But then, arthritis and crankiness takes a toll on us as we get older.