SD9VE recoil spring question

Galloway offers 15, 17, 20, and 22 pound recoil assemblies, but no 18 pound. On their site, they say the 17 pound is the stock spring weight. I could swear that S&W told me before that it was 18 pounds. I'm going to call them and see if I can confirm that but I was wondering if anyone here had already confirmed that with S&W.

Also, I was wondering if anyone here had tried both the 17 lb and the 20 lb Galloway recoil assemblies in their SD9VE, and what the results were.

Thanks.

Is there a problem with your stock recoil spring?

If not, I wouldn't worry about it.

M jus saying...

No, there is nothing "wrong" with the polymer recoil spring guide rod/assembly...I just prefer steel. When a pistol I buy comes with a polymer guide rod, and if a steel rod is available, I always replace it with the steel rod. So far, except for the SD9VE, these haven't been captured spring assemblies (the Beretta 92FS and the Ruger LC9 are two examples that come to mind) so I could reuse the same, stock recoil springs. Pistols like the M&P series already have a steel guide rod in their captured assemblies.

I feel the same way about full length guide rods in 1911s...I always replace them with GI guide rods and plugs, if possible (government and commander length models; not possible on compact or other models with bull barrels, etc.) Again, it's just personal preference...although I do find the GI guide rod easier to field strip than the FLGR.

18# is stock S&W on Sigma/SD recoil springs.

Whether you can use the 20# depends on your ammo.
The empties should land 3 to 6 feet away when your recoil spring matches your ammo. Too light tends to batter the frame, and too heavy tends to give feed problems.
If you get the Galloway set up right, it will work as well as the stock spring. However, piano wire springs of any brand will wear out quicker than the flat-wound recoil springs, which is something to consider when choosing recoil springs.
The complete Galloway assembly does have a flat wound spring, and I suggest the 17 # version if you shoot factory ammo, particularly bulk ammo, or handload down around the 130 Power Factor range. Even for hot handloads, 20# is about all you'd want in 9mm. You can wind up with short stroking with the 20# and wimpy ammo.

OKFC05 said:

18# is stock S&W on Sigma/SD recoil springs.

Whether you can use the 20# depends on your ammo.
The empties should land 3 to 6 feet away when your recoil spring matches your ammo. Too light tends to batter the frame, and too heavy tends to give feed problems.
If you get the Galloway set up right, it will work as well as the stock spring. However, piano wire springs of any brand will wear out quicker than the flat-wound recoil springs, which is something to consider when choosing recoil springs.
The complete Galloway assembly does have a flat wound spring, and I suggest the 17 # version if you shoot factory ammo, particularly bulk ammo, or handload down around the 130 Power Factor range. Even for hot handloads, 20# is about all you'd want in 9mm. You can wind up with short stroking with the 20# and wimpy ammo.

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Thanks! I don't reload, out of consideration for the safety and welfare of others, so I will be shooting factory ammo.

I wonder why Galloway didn't go with 18 lbs rather than 17? I wonder if they'd do a run of 18 lbs? I guess I should ask them that!

I wonder why Galloway didn't go with 18 lbs rather than 17? I wonder if they'd do a run of 18 lbs? I guess I should ask them that!

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I haven't asked them, but I have an educated guess: the steel rods have somewhat more friction than the polymer rods, and make the recoil spring drag a bit. I grease the metal rods in my M&Ps, but leave the polymer rods in the Sigma series dry.

OKFC05 said:

I haven't asked them, but I have an educated guess: the steel rods have somewhat more friction than the polymer rods, and make the recoil spring drag a bit. I grease the metal rods in my M&Ps, but leave the polymer rods in the Sigma series dry.

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Thanks! I'll start adding a little grease to the recoil assembly as part of my cleaning routine.

Is this normal for SD40VE this happened while I was cleaning pistol

I don’t understand this happened while I was cleaning it now the recoil spring want compress or seat

GKC said:

No, there is nothing "wrong" with the polymer recoil spring guide rod/assembly...I just prefer steel. When a pistol I buy comes with a polymer guide rod, and if a steel rod is available, I always replace it with the steel rod. So far, except for the SD9VE, these haven't been captured spring assemblies (the Beretta 92FS and the Ruger LC9 are two examples that come to mind) so I could reuse the same, stock recoil springs. Pistols like the M&P series already have a steel guide rod in their captured assemblies.

I feel the same way about full length guide rods in 1911s...I always replace them with GI guide rods and plugs, if possible (government and commander length models; not possible on compact or other models with bull barrels, etc.) Again, it's just personal preference...although I do find the GI guide rod easier to field strip than the FLGR.

Click to expand...

Just an FYI to those who have changed the plastic recoil spring guide rod to steel. Go back to the plastic rod. These guns are designed for a plastic guide only. If you look at the inside of the frame where the flat part sits in the gun it’s plastic. The steel rods will break this plastic surface. If it cracks or breaks the frame is toast and smith can tell if a steel guide rod was used. They will not warranty the frame or pistol and will charge you for a new handgun or send your broken gun back to you. Nothing wrong with plastic guide rods and many manufactures use them on their pistols.

cocojo said:

Just an FYI to those who have changed the plastic recoil spring guide rod to steel. Go back to the plastic rod. These guns are designed for a plastic guide only. If you look at the inside of the frame where the flat part sits in the gun it’s plastic. The steel rods will break this plastic surface. If it cracks or breaks the frame is toast and smith can tell if a steel guide rod was used. They will not warranty the frame or pistol and will charge you for a new handgun or send your broken gun back to you. Nothing wrong with plastic guide rods and many manufactures use them on their pistols.

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This is what happened to me. I have a long ago post here somewhere about it. Broken frame. The slide flew off the front during a course of fire. The inside lug disintegrated.

Here

FYI-

I broke the frame of my 40E years ago. I had purchased the gun new in 2000. I had replaced the guide rod with a steel guide rod from either Wolff or ISMI (can not recall which). It was a captured flat spring similar to the factory one, except that the guide rod was steel instead of plastic.

While at the range a few years later, after firing a shot, the slide went forward and slid right off the frame onto the range floor. Upon inspection, it was clear that the plastic portion of the frame that holds the locking bar/ slide lock had become weak and "crumbly" (for lack of a better term).

I shipped it off to S&W and they returned it with a brand new frame at no charge. I never reinstalled that guide rod and have run it stock ever since.

At the time, I may have had 500 rounds through it with the new spring before it broke.

There are other variables however, that may have contributed:

1. I believe I installed an extra power recoil spring rated at 22 lbs. I am not sure what the statndard weight is.

2. I used gunscrubber quite a bit during cleaning. I am not sure if this could have been a factor as well.

FWIW- thought you might like the info.

Best,

-Coop

The tech advised me about gun scrubber on these pistol frames. I did use it once, but I won't ever on the frame again. Steel parts are another thing, but the firing pin contains plastic also.