Quote:
Originally Posted by ahern25
Since I have you here I got a second question. Does the length of the spring make a difference? I bought the wolff 14 for the 4506 but its much shorter then the original. When raked it feels weaker the the original and I can feel tue slide battering the frame more. Is it in my head? Or does wolff use the wrong by using a shorter length?
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Well Sir, there are a number of things that govern how much muscle a spring has or more accurately, how much energy a spring can store & release. To be sure, the length is very important in making sure a given recoil spring is the correct fit for a particular weapon. In addition to length, we have the coil count, the specific steel allow used to make the wire and wire shape that determines the muscle.
I don't know what spring was originally in your 4506 but for the sake of discussion I'll assume it was a factory 20161. If the new Wolff spring you got is significantly shorter and weaker than the used spring you took out, I'd venture Wolff sent you the wrong part.
You mention you can feel the slide battering more with the new Wolff spring. Well, If your gun is sprung correctly for the loads you're using there should be no battering at all. You'll no doubt get plenty of advice to use an extra power spring of this or that weight. What I'll tell you is to be careful messing with extra power springs. Use a spring that's appropriate for the loads you're using and nothing more. Heavy extra power springs... Slide/frame battering is eliminated but... All that stored energy has to be dumped into something. That something is your locking lugs, barrel cam and slide stop cross pin as the slide is violently flung back into battery. Those are the bits that are now getting battered when using heavy springs beyond the design limits of the gun. Granted it may take a while but what you eventually wind up with is loose lockup, poor accuracy and head space growth.
What I suggest is call S&W directly and see if they have some 20161 springs on hand. Often times I've called S&W and been able to order parts that have been out of stock at all the regular suppliers. Just might be worth sitting on hold for a bit
Anyway, get you a fresh stock factory spring in there and use that as a baseline to determine what your gun needs. Run some standard pressure 230g loads through and if there's no battering or function problems, you're good to go. If you sense any slide/frame battering try a 15# spring and so on. Not every one of these guns behave exactly the same. What works in my gun may not work for yours or for the loads you're using.
Ideally you want full travel of the slide with the spring bringing the slide to a halt just as it kisses the frame then sending the slide back forward into battery. You don't want any short stroking or feeble ejection either. Keep a weather eye on how your gun ejects the brass too. That's an warning warning sign of either a too weak or worn out recoil spring when your empties are landing in the next county.
Forgive me for the long winded reply, I hope you find some of it useful.
Cheers
Bill