Welcome to the forum GeorgeD.
As pointed out a little "stoning" on the trigger and trigger channel will take care of that glitch easy-peasy.
Most aluminum triggers will have far more wear marks than what you show, but I understand not wanting what is perceived as a scratch.
Although for me, it is the same as wear on the slide rails. They are a "bearing surface", and no matter how much or what kind of lube used, it will eventually leave a marked wear pattern.
If, you reduce the sides, bottom and top, of the trigger to stop leaving a mark you may then get a little "rattle" which you already found objectionable in your Ruger.
I am not an advocate for Ruger, nor am I intending to school anybody, or diminish your expertise in the 1911 series, but, many times those 1911s with "too much play" can be more reliable in function, than one with overly tight tolerances.
Anyway, I went adrift on your original question. I have only one Smith 1911; the Doug Koenig Signature... Being "righty" I don't like extended nor "ambi-safeties" on any 1911, and on two ocasions at the range,with my bone stock pistol, I had my gun come to be safety locked, with no conscious effort on my part...Thumb safety up.
I called S&W and they sent me what I needed, (single-side GI safety) and it "fell" in to place, passed all safety checks, and was reasonable in price.
So, if you want to change out some parts,you might want to try the OEM first, and see how they stack up.
I echo the advice of T-Bird. Tear in to that booger and see whats in there. Your'e gonna have to anyway if you start changing out parts.
I promise, you will be no more lost in the 1911 innards than some of us other dummies, and you can always come back and get some MORE forum advice. It only cost what it is worth.