Dry firing my Model 41

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DrakeOwens

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I have a Model 41 7 3/8" with muzzle brake made in 1958 that I take to the range twice a week. When I'm finished shooting I dry fire the pistol to uncock it and take pressure off the springs. I also do that after I clean it. I recently read that one should never dry fire a rimfire pistol because it might damage either the firing pin or the port but I don't know any way to uncock this pistol other than with a dry fire. I'd be very interested in whatever advice I could get. Thanks!
 
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Without a case in the chamber, the rimfire firing pin can strike the frame (steel), rather than a case (brass). The theory is that this will damage the firing pin.

Like you, I usually clear my M41 by dry firing when I'm finished at the range.

My theory is that occasional dry firing probably isn't going to be enough to damage it. I've been clearing rim fires for decades and never had a firing pin problem.

Could just be my good luck.

Another theory to consider: springs age by use - compression and relaxation cycles. There is probably no reason not to leave your M41 cocked when you are done shooting. Just make sure it's empty.
 
S&W advises not to dry fire rimfire revolvers or pistols because of the reasons you specify. In the model 41, I believe the breechface can also be damaged. I would suggest either using an empty, fired casing or a snap cap while "uncocking" the hammer.

Some members of the forum have also suggested these plastic anchors as an alternative to snap caps. They are available at Amazon, Home Depot and others.

The Hillman Group 370326 Ribbed Plastic Anchor, 4-6-8 X 7/8-Inch, Yellow, 100-Pack
 
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On some rim fires we use to hold the trigger back while easing the slide or bolt forward will that work on a 41?
 
I also own a Smith & Wesson Model 41 that I absolutely cherish - Cherish! No way do I release the firing pin by dry-firing the pistol after cleaning. I mean, come on, I've owned this pistol for many years; and, every now and then I'll call the factory to order another spring. (Wolff Gunsprings sells them, too - Very nice, 'extra power' ones!*)

These springs are, 'nickel and dime' items; and it's really not that hard to tap out the retention pin every few years, in order to replace the spring. As far as I'm concerned there's no way I'd risk damaging the slide and/or slide components on a primo Model 41 by dry-firing it for any reason.

IT'S COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY!

Nothing but spring strength is involved; and, in something like 35 + years of using this pistol, I've derived improved ignition by changing out this spring no more than 3 or 4 times. (Right now, I'm running a Wolff Gunsprings, 'extra power' FP spring in my 41; and, so far, it's standing up noticeably better than any factory spring I've ever used.)

Here's another source: Brownells.

* NOT carried in Wolff's on-line catalog! Must be ordered directly by phone.
 
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armorer951 said:
S&W advises not to dry fire rimfire revolvers or pistols because of the reasons you specify. In the model 41, I believe the breechface can also be damaged. I would suggest either using an empty, fired casing or a snap cap while "uncocking" the hammer.

Some members of the forum have also suggested these plastic anchors as an alternative to snap caps. They are available at Amazon, Home Depot and others.

The Hillman Group 370326 Ribbed Plastic Anchor, 4-6-8 X 7/8-Inch, Yellow, 100-Pack
Click to expand...

Thank you all very much. I had never heard of snap caps and I'm going to order some right now. Until I get them no more dry firing, you guys are great!!
 
The only rimfire pistols I dry fire are the Ruger's, Mark ii and Mark iii. The Ruger manual OKs it, if one makes sure the firing pin retaining pin is in place. If the retaining pin is out of position then the firing pin can damage the breech face.

A couple of years ago, I purchased a Hammerli Xesse Sport from Larrys Guns. They suggested I also get some small plastic fittings with a tab which fit into the chamber to absorb the shock of dry firing. They work great. I've since seen them my LGS.
 
I also have a 1958 year M41, I wonder how close your ser. no. is to mine. Mine is 1230-
 
Barrie said:
I also have a 1958 year M41, I wonder how close your ser. no. is to mine. Mine is 1230-
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Hi Barrie! Mine's 3800, I was told it's late 1958 or 1959 but I don't know how to check. BTW you sent me a message last year when I first joined the forum regarding getting a false nose from Thom Beckwith. I couldn't find him in the members list. Could you tell me where I can find him or where I can buy a false nose. I still like the look of the muzzle brake but they are a pig to clean(what I can't chip out I soak the muzzle brake in a solution of half distilled vinegar and half hydrogen peroxide) and they are almost never for sale and when they are they go for at least $150. Good to hear from you again!
 
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rt11002003 said:
The only rimfire pistols I dry fire are the Ruger's, Mark ii and Mark iii. The Ruger manual OKs it, if one makes sure the firing pin retaining pin is in place. If the retaining pin is out of position then the firing pin can damage the breech face.

A couple of years ago, I purchased a Hammerli Xesse Sport from Larrys Guns. They suggested I also get some small plastic fittings with a tab which fit into the chamber to absorb the shock of dry firing. They work great. I've since seen them my LGS.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I've marked the page and will certainly give them a try.
 
DrakeOwens said:
I have a Model 41 7 3/8" with muzzle brake made in 1958 that I take to the range twice a week. When I'm finished shooting I dry fire the pistol to uncock it and take pressure off the springs. I also do that after I clean it. I recently read that one should never dry fire a rimfire pistol because it might damage either the firing pin or the port but I don't know any way to uncock this pistol other than with a dry fire. I'd be very interested in whatever advice I could get. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I keep 10 or 15 empty (spent) .22 brass for just such an occasion. Put an empty brass into the chamber and pull the trigger. :)



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I do "dry fire" my M41 PC.... BUT........ the trick that I have found is to pull the slide out of breech just 1 or 2 mm, then pull the trigger.
This gets the breech / firing pin away from the barrel / chamber so the firing pin does not hit it.
If you pull back too far, the disconnector drops off the sear and she wont fire.

Honestly though, it is probably better to dry fire it with an already fired .22 case, then at least everything is doing what it was engineered to do.

Obviously safety is the drawback with this method, as I guess it is "theoretically possible" to place a live round back in the chamber ( thinking that you put in a already fired case) as the two are visually identical ( except for the missing projectile of course !)

A plastic plug / snap-cap is sufficiently different (than a spent case ) to tell the difference.
The problem I have with the plastic plug / snap-cap is that they do not replicate the resistance or impact energy that the firing pin "normally" feels when hitting brass.
The firing pin may "over-stroke" and become damaged ( inside the breech block) by the breech block retention pin ( which could also be damaged by the firing pin ), which is also the pin that stops the firing pin from coming out of the breech block.

As @Arc Angle says, probably just better to leave it in a "cocked" state, but unloaded of course !!!
Springs are cheap and easy to replace ;)
 
Use a drywall anchor and dry fire the snot out of it. That's what us Bullseye shooters do. The LGI plugs for Hammerli X-esses work well too. If you are really worried send it to KC Crawford (KCs Kustom Creations) and have him trim the firing pin so it cannot contact the breech. KC can also do a great trigger job and adjust the bolt face, extractor and disconnector bar.

What is strange is that the Sig Trailside manual warned of dry firing without a plug but the Hammerli X-esse manual does not have this warning. Perhaps the X-esse firing pin is shorter and cannot contact the breech.

Both the Sig and Hammerli are based on the Walther Olympia that the M41 copied.
 
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I use the yellow plastic screw anchors that I bought at the Orange box, about 100 of them for 4 bucks. Seem to work well.
 
I have a different view than most above. The firing pin will not reach the chamber edge of any modern rimfire, so cannot damage the chamber edge if the gun is dry-fired. The only danger is a broken firing pin, which is a greater risk on some designs than others.

I have about fifty rimfires of all designs and brands, and dry-fire them all, except for a 1953 Marlin Model 39A Mountie that has a firing pin design prone to breaking from dry-firing. I learned that the hard way after I received the rifle new as a boy to go with a Ruger Single Six to complete my "cowboy" rimfire set. I was "firing" from the cover of the living room couch at a western on television in the 1950s, and the next time I wanted to live-fire the Marlin, it would not fire. The forward part of the firing pin had broken off at a sharp angle point on the firing pin. A broken firing pin has not happened on any other rimfire I own, and none have received damage to the chamber edge from dry-firing.
 
Uncocking Model 41

When I want to uncock my model 41, I retract the slide about 1/8 inch, or slightly more, and pull the trigger. The firing pin goes forward, but doesn't contact anything. I also bought the Tipton .22 snap caps, but seldom use them.
 
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