Best Mods to S&W Semis???

[Redcoat3340]

So I've got about $350 burning a hole in my pocket. I don't need another gun but I wouldn't mind upgrading one I have.

So what would folks do with a $350 budget to a Smith semi. I have one of each generation of both 39 and 59 lines (plus a 4013TSW) and wouldn't mind making one "nicer" ala trigger work, new sights, maybe nickel plating one of the harder used pistols.

And who would you have do the work if it weren't a local smith? (I'm semi handy and could do some easy work myself, but don't mind sending it out for a sure-fire quality job.)

Now I don't want this to be a year-long project (Cylinder and Slide says they have a 12-14 month backlog) so getting the work done in a reasonable time wouldn't be a bad thing.

(I had Langdon do a Beretta PX4 of mine and it came back amazing...but he don't do Smiths.)

[chief38]

If the pistol is running well, the money that is burning a hole in your pocket might be better off spent on extra Mags, a good quality holster, ammo and or components. Just my .02 cents......

[Model52guy]

This is what I did to a “cosmetically challenged” 39-2. Found the NM slide on Fleabay.

[cherrypointmarine]

I would send it off to BMCM , a member here , and an expert gunsmith . He's probably forgot more than most of us know about the workings of 1st , 2nd and 3rd gen S&W's . I've sent more than a few to him and his work is above reproach .

[Frank Black]

My 'beater' 411, which I scored before the on-set of the pandemo-panic, shoots just fine as is.

Picked up three more factory 11-rd mags, and it's been GTG.

[RufusG]

I put bobbed hammers and single side safeties on a 5906 and 5904, but that's just my preference. Did the swapouts myself and traded for some of the pieces so it was pretty cheap. Third gens strike me as pretty good without expensive tweaking, maybe that's why so many here stay attached to an "obsolete" platform.

[growr]

Buy another 3rd Gen gun.......maybe a 4506

Randy

[Frank Black]

Originally Posted by growr

Buy another 3rd Gen gun.......maybe a 4506.

Or even better, upgrade to the ultimate level of 'stopping power' in a S&W 3rd Gen pistol: get one chambered for the 10mm AUTO.

Designed from the ground up to be duty/carry/fighting guns, a fixed-sight DA/SA 1006 or 1066 would be my recommendation.

Pic of my 1006 attached.

Had the slide hard-chromed years ago by Tripp Research, .... gives it that 'Crockett-ish effect.'

As old as it is, this gun still makes jaws drop & eyes pop at the range when it roars through a magazine of the hot, full-throttle stuff.

[BigBoy99]

Use it to buy an all metal handgun! Forget about the PPP's (Polymer Plastic Pistols). The only plastic handgun I own is a modern version of the Whitney Wolverine. I'll keep it until I can find an original all metal version of the it.

[DMcBB]

I wish there were more upgrade options available for 3rd gens, but there’s not.

Unfortunately, grips are somewhat limited due to the weird design of the standard wrap around plastic factory grips and the fact that the grips hold the mainspring in place. They aren’t like a 1911 or a Sig P-series or CZ-75s where you just unscrew your old grips and screw new ones on. You can always go with Hogue rubber or wood options, but they are thick.

Sight options are somewhat limited because the 3rd gens (and S&W 1911 E-series) have a proprietary dovetail that doesn’t match up with anything else. Plus they have been out of production for a while, so many of the cool newer sight designs of the past 10 or 15 years aren’t available (Trijicon HD or HD XR, Truglo TFO / TFX, etc...) you probably can affix a red dot, but it will require more work than you’d like. Standard Trijicon Bright and Tough, Novak’s, and Dawson Precision sights are available though.

There are no trigger upgrades available. You aren’t getting an Apex or Grey Guns flat trigger. You can dig up an old 1st gen wide trigger or stay with one of the versions of the 3rd gen triggers (MIM or flash chromed).

You can always get a trigger job done to clean up the action. I had the factory do their 3rd gen action job on my 5906TSW and it was an improvement, although not quite as dramatic as I had hoped. I’ve been meaning to send my CS9 or my 4006TSW to BMCM to work his magic but I still haven’t gotten around to it. Novak’s and Cylinder and Slide still work on 3rd gens too.

Ultimately, 3rd gens are not quite as upgradable as some other platforms, but there are a few things you can do to improve them and make them your own.

[Geno44]

Unless you already have too many guns (Is that possible?) I would save some more money and add it to your $350 and buy another one.

[BAM-BAM]

Check out Hogue wood grips for the 39xx series checkered wood is nice .... on the double stack guns the grip gets to wide in my opinion.

But on my single stack guns 39xx and 45xx they are a nice addition.

Get an complete upper and build a FrankinSmith like a (my)6915s a 6906 lower matted to a 915 upper... fiber optic or night sight front sight.

[Green Frog]

I vote for the Franken-Smith route if you’re going to stand pat with the number of guns you have. A nice custom upper milled for a low mounted red dot reflex sight comes to mind.

I like 2nd Generation guns as my donor platform though... they can take the later slides (incl. Gen 3) but still have the separate mainspring housing and slab grips. My 639 project gun is a prime example of this modularity. I’m super glad I picked it as my starting point.

Green Frog

[stansdds]

My EDC is a Model 6946. Let's see... what mods did I do to it to make it better...
One, a very light chamfer where the chamber meets the edge of the breech. There was no chamfer when I got this pistol and I did get an occasional case mouth that would catch this edge. Other than that, I did buy spare mags and ammo for it.

[JohnHL]

It all depends...

If you can perform your own modifications, $350.00 can get you quite a few mods to several pistols.

If you need to pay someone to do the work for you, maybe one minor mod to one pistol.

Obviously, the money is NOT the limiting factor.

John

[firescout]

I installed a Wolff Gunsprings reduced pressure mainspring in my Model 908. Along with that, I polished the friction areas on the hammer, sear and drawbar. The DA pull is now just under 10 lbs, and the SA pull is 5+ lbs.

I also installed a Novak adjustable (click for elevation) rear sight, and placed a strip of abrasive grip tape along the front grip strap area.

[Frank Black]

Back in the mid-'90s, I sent my ex-L.E. 1076 and three 9-rd mags to Novak's for their 'S&W 3rd Gen package.' The 1076 had served in a New Hampshire P.D. and was in excellent condition when I initially got it.

My model was one of those set up for the P.D. without the magazine disconnect and the slide was so marked. It had also been returned to S&W at some point for the 'recall/upgrade' on the trigger, as evidenced by the two 'dots' (..) stamped on the frame underneath the tab on the decock lever.

At the time, Novak's package basically consisted of a series of custom items that included installing Trijicon fixed sights, de-horning the slide & frame, a 'duty/carry' trigger job, bead-blasting (re-finishing) the slide & fame, etc. You could also have 'French borders' cut on the slide for esthetic effect.

On the mags, they polished the upper portion and stamped numbers (#1 - #3) on bottom of the backsides.

I had already upgraded the recoil and firing-pin springs with Wolff XPs, as well as the mag springs.

I still have the NOVAK'S receipt somewhere, stamped 'PAID,' with the itemized list of work that was done.

For those interested, I'll try to find it and list what it says here.

[S&W59]

My recommendation on any classic S&W automatic is do nothing that cannot be easily and readily reversed. Keep all the original parts you 'customize' replacing. Keep replaced parts with the gun in a bag with what make and model gun it belongs too written in sharpy pen. Ultimately, the price and value of a S&W are two separate things. The price is what someone will pay you for it, the value is what pleasure or utility you gain from it. However, since in the back of our minds we always keep an eye on the price of collectables, customized S&W auto's are ultimately either project guns for a collector to return to original state or they're junk guns, changed so irretrievably they are the fodder of the discount table at a gunshow and ultimately wind up getting cut up at a police impoundment yard or salvaged for parts or tossed in a tool box to rust into uselessness. The only mod I would inflict on a S&W classic auto are period-correct Pachmayr grips. Changing parts like the hammer or removing the magazine safety are reversible, but please keep the original parts removed with the gun so someone or even you can return it to its correct factory state.

[JohnHL]

Originally Posted by S&W59

My recommendation on any classic S&W automatic is do nothing that cannot be easily and readily reversed. Keep all the original parts you 'customize' replacing. Keep replaced parts with the gun in a bag with what make and model gun it belongs too written in sharpy pen. Ultimately, the price and value of a S&W are two separate things. The price is what someone will pay you for it, the value is what pleasure or utility you gain from it. However, since in the back of our minds we always keep an eye on the price of collectables, customized S&W auto's are ultimately either project guns for a collector to return to original state or they're junk guns, changed so irretrievably they are the fodder of the discount table at a gunshow and ultimately wind up getting cut up at a police impoundment yard or salvaged for parts or tossed in a tool box to rust into uselessness. The only mod I would inflict on a S&W classic auto are period-correct Pachmayr grips. Changing parts like the hammer or removing the magazine safety are reversible, but please keep the original parts removed with the gun so someone or even you can return it to its correct factory state.

Yup!

I make lots of mods to my S&W pistols, but I always adhere to what I call the "Prime Directive", that is, keep all parts and make no "permanent" mods that would prevent the pistol from being easily and readily returned to stock condition.

John

[Frank Black]

Keeping any parts YOU replace or change is sound advice.

But remember, as in the case of my 1076, the factory magazine disconnect was not infrequently omitted on L.E.-issued guns if requested by the purchasing agency or department.

The slide was then so marked with a 'warning' the gun would still fire with the mag removed.

So on mine, I wouldn't install a mag disconnect just to do it.

Now swapping out the standard hammer for a 'bobbed' variant is different.

[Green Frog]

We tend to get too hung up around here with maintaining originality and collectibility of objects that are, after all, tools meant to be used and expected to be worn out. If you have a NIB example and wish to serve as a museum curator, or even if you are buying guns as investments, Then put them away in a safe and play lawn darts or something for fun.

If, on the other hand, you want your gun for the purpose of being used and enjoyed by you, then considerations of originality or even condition become secondary. Modifications, well thought out and well executed, that make the firearm more attractive and useful for you, the owner, are your business.

Yes, I own a couple of S&Ws that don't get carried or fired and may not be, more for sentimental reasons than because of collectibilty, but the guns I own that I shoot get modified if "needed" to make them more shootable and more desirable to shoot by me, and thoughts of their originality become secondary. Admittedly, all but a couple of my guns have been used (sometimes well used!) before I got them, so their fate was pretty much sealed when they arrived. As far as what modifications others should apply to their firearms is their business and none of mine. I would only suggest that you look at my description above, of "modifications well thought out and well executed..." be considered as you make them (or actually before! ) I would never advise anyone who had just acquired any firearm to jump in and start doing modifications to it just because you have money in your pocket and think this would be a good way to spend it! Let changes you do make the gun more suitable to you.

End of rant. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Froggie

[S&W59]

The issue then is if you're going to purchase a firearm for purely utilitarian reasons, purchase a modern commercial unit. Hellcat's and other compact polymer framed guns fit this category. As such you are not relying on a vintage or relic firearm to defend yourself and secondly, you are sparing vintage and relic firearms which are no longer produced from being degraded to garbage guns. Vintage S&W auto's aren't by today's standards the best choice for carry or duty arms. Polymer frames do not rust, are far lighter, and generally covered by a warranty. They're also cheaper and readily replaced if lost ,stolen, or confiscated after an incident. There are only so many vintage or relic firearms. You increase the price of outstanding vintage guns by essentially mistreating or obliterating their price point of the guns you possess by altering them. As my current S&W collection is fairly comprehensive only the rarest and fewest produced models remain on my wish list. The price for the ones I have goes up as their peers are lost to time or so modified and abused they have no desirability and as such are junk beaters.

[mikerjf]

My grandpa bought a brand new Python and put it right in the safe in the box, never even looked at it again. Not a mark on it.

He also had a modded Brazilian 1917 that went everywhere in his truck and under his pillow at night - he counted on that gun for his whole life, it saved him from a couple bad hombres and at least one bear.

I think of him every time I look at that beautiful Python.

[GaryS]

I've never noticed an expiration date on my 3rd Gens. There is a LAPD officer on this forum who recently bought a 4506 for duty use.

3rd Gens don't have a reputation for fragility or unreliability that would make me think I'd be risking my life by carrying one for personal defence.

Originally Posted by S&W59

The issue then is if you're going to purchase a firearm for purely utilitarian reasons, purchase a modern commercial unit. Hellcat's and other compact polymer framed guns fit this category. As such you are not relying on a vintage or relic firearm to defend yourself and secondly, you are sparing vintage and relic firearms which are no longer produced from being degraded to garbage guns. Vintage S&W auto's aren't by today's standards the best choice for carry or duty arms. Polymer frames do not rust, are far lighter, and generally covered by a warranty. They're also cheaper and readily replaced if lost ,stolen, or confiscated after an incident. There are only so many vintage or relic firearms. You increase the price of outstanding vintage guns by essentially mistreating or obliterating their price point of the guns you possess by altering them. As my current S&W collection is fairly comprehensive only the rarest and fewest produced models remain on my wish list. The price for the ones I have goes up as their peers are lost to time or so modified and abused they have no desirability and as such are junk beaters.

[Green Frog]

Originally Posted by S&W59

The issue then is if you're going to purchase a firearm for purely utilitarian reasons, purchase a modern commercial unit. Hellcat's and other compact polymer framed guns fit this category. As such you are not relying on a vintage or relic firearm to defend yourself and secondly, you are sparing vintage and relic firearms which are no longer produced from being degraded to garbage guns. Vintage S&W auto's aren't by today's standards the best choice for carry or duty arms. Polymer frames do not rust, are far lighter, and generally covered by a warranty. They're also cheaper and readily replaced if lost ,stolen, or confiscated after an incident. There are only so many vintage or relic firearms. You increase the price of outstanding vintage guns by essentially mistreating or obliterating their price point of the guns you possess by altering them. As my current S&W collection is fairly comprehensive only the rarest and fewest produced models remain on my wish list. The price for the ones I have goes up as their peers are lost to time or so modified and abused they have no desirability and as such are junk beaters.

&W59,

I understand your position as a collector and certainly respect it. OTOH, I want the weapon I pick up to defend my life to be as dependable and reassuring as possible, and age doesn’t enter the equation. I don’t start out with a rare or high condition gun for any of my projects... in fact the only one I now have that was in anything like new condition when I got it is my Model 60-4, and all I’ve done with it is change out those ugly rubber grips and shoot it.

At best, my project guns have been “shooter grade” examples with high round counts, and they were and will be purpose built for me with specific applications in mind... value added for me, and after all, they’re my guns. If somebody in the future doesn’t like my mods, that’s OK because it will make your pristine examples that much more valuable, and I will have had lots of fun with mine before leaving them for that great shooting range in the sky.

As for age or “relic” status of my defense arms, I wouldn’t hesitate to defend myself if needed with my 1918 vintage Colt Model 1911, though I’d hate to lose it to an evidence locker, at least it would help insure that I’d still be around to regret its loss. My current build (a Gen 2 Model 639) is discontinued, but it has features I wanted for a defensive tool. While it wouldn’t be cheap, it could be replaced quickly and easily, or if I needed to save money I could take a little longer. Regardless, it’s a tool, not an irreplaceable piece of history.

Regards,
Froggie