My S&W 4506-1

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Hi everyone,

I just recently joined this forum so greetings. I'm here to learn more about S&W firearms and pick up any tips and such.

Below in attachments is my 4506-1 I just recently purchased.

Gun is fairly good shape and built like a tank. I have fired some rounds out of it at roughly 25-30 yards with 230 grain FMJ. I noticed my pattern is more to the left. This could be my technique though, for I have just recently got into pistol shooting. Again I'm new to a lot of this, but I'm enjoying it.

I noticed the barrel has some lines and grooves on the inside. Is this normal? See picture in attachments as well.

It looks dirty to me and I want to clean this gun. Any cleaning kit recommendations and a video on how to do it?

Thanks
 

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Welcome to the forum. The 4506 is an awesome 3rd Generation Smith and Wesson Automatic. There are several YouTube video out there on cleaning and disassembling your pistol. Brownell has good quality cleaning kits. One of their universal kits would be a good investment, giving you the ability to clean your 45 and also the 9mm you will probably want in the future, or a 10MM and probably a Ruger Mark four 22.
 
Welcome and that's a great pistol that will last multiple lifetimes! The lines and grooves you're seeing are the rifling in the barrel which all firearms outside of shotguns and other "smoothbore" guns have.

If you have a decent sporting goods/gun shop near you a cleaning kit should be an easy find. Opinions vary on the best cleaners/lubes-everyone has their favorite. I'm a long time user of MPro 7 for a cleaner and Break Free CLP as a lube but that's just me. Most of the products you'll find in a store will be just fine.

As Heinz suggested check out Youtube for a video on how to field strip/clean your fine firearm. Enjoy it, have fun and keep us posted on your progress.
 
Good looking gun!

Yes, the rifling in the bore is normal. Otherwise, it'd be known as a "smooth bore", which is only shotguns these days.

Yes, a cleaning kit is definitely in your future. :D

You could get a "all-in-one" kit, which might have a lot of things you don't need but paid for. Or, you can buy the items separately & only pay for what you want (my choice).

A coated cleaning rod is preferred as it won't scratch the muzzle or damage it in any way. A link to an example follows.

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A bore brush is critical. One wants it to clean but not damage the rifling in any way. Nylon brushes don't clean properly (in most cases) so most shooters use a bronze brush. I prefer the "tornado" style of brush. Link follows.

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There're a million cleaning solvents out there these days. I tend to stick to one of the oldest as it still works well. Hoppes #9. Link follows.

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You'll need patches to swab out the bore too. Some are caliber specific, some are open to a specific range of calibers. Link follows.

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You should use a jag to run your patches through the bore. These ARE caliber specific, so make sure it matches.

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A cleaning brush is also critical. Wives get ill when their toothbrush is used, I don't know why. :D

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1255343755?pid=993486

So for around $30 or so, you can be set-up to do basic cleaning on a single caliber. New calibers require new bore brushes & jags .

My cleaning procedure is as follows. I've been doing this since 1975 as well as in the Marines (where a clean gun is beyond mandatory).

1) Ensure the gun is empty & safe.

2) Field strip it, removing the slide & the barrel from the slide.

3) Inspect each piece for damage or cracks.

4) Use a baking pan about 7-8" long (not your wife's!) & pour solvent in it about 3" or so deep.

5) Drop the barrel & slide in the pan, let them soak for 10 minutes or so.

6) Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to spray out the frame & trigger assembly. Some folks prefer Gun Scrub, but it costs more & is the same thing.

7) Dip the nylon brush into the cleaning solvent & scrub the frame's rails, dust cover & so forth. Use an old towel or washcloth to wipe off excess solvent.

8) Remove the slide from the baking pan. Wipe it off (so you won't drop it) & using the nylon brush, scrub any & all surfaces you can see or find. Be sure to scrub the rails on it as well. Wipe well when done.

9) Remove the barrel, wipe the outside down (so you don't drop it). Using the tornado bore brush, dip the brush into the solvent & run it down & back through the bore. I always make sure it exits both ends before I reverse it. About 10 times is usually good enough.

10) Nylon brush clean the outside of the barrel, being sure to clean the feed ramp in front of the chamber.

11) Wipe the barrel clean. Using the patch eyelet, run a dry patch down the bore 2-3 times. This soaks up the excess cleaning solvent.

12) Using the jag, place a new dry patch on the chamber end of the barrel & run it down the bore. The patch will fall off when the jag exits the bore, so you might want to "short stroke" it just a hair. Change patches & keep cleaning until you have a clean patch exiting the bore.

13) Take a clean patch, dampen it with gun lube of some sort (I prefer Breakfree CLP) & wipe down the entire outside of the barrel. Everything, feed ramp included.

14) Do the same for the slide, maybe using pipe cleaners for the inside of the rails as they're pretty small. Lube every flat surface you can see or find.

15) Using a pipe cleaner, lube the rails on the frame.

16) Wipe down the recoil guide rod. Not necessary to scrub it, usually. Wipe down the recoil spring. Lube the guide rod.

17) Re-assemble the gun. Rack the slide 3-4 times, checking for any abnormalities or hiccups. Dry fire it 3-4 times, checking it as well.

18) Wipe the mag body & the top of the follower with a towel or washcloth. (You can remove the baseplate later for cleaning the inside if you wish).

19) Pour the left-over solvent back into the container.

20) Done. :D

I tend to use lube liberally on my guns. I worry about rust (it IS the South, humidity) and function. No such thing as too much lube in my world. The gun will shake off any excess lube as well.

If I'm storing the gun for a while, I will run a patch with oil down the bore. Before I shoot it, I'll run a dry patch down it to clear it out. Never shoot a gun with oil in the bore, excess pressure.

There're loads of videos on Youtube on gun cleaning, but there's gonna be some bad info in there as well. Might best to find a buddy who knows guns to help you the first time or two?

Keep in mind everyone has their own method of cleaning. I am anal about my cleaning, imparted in me by the USMC. I've read of guys NEVER cleaning their guns (Glocks, mostly), which I don't get. :eek:

Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps!
 
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Muzzle stains look janky. Defective rifling of the bore? You might want to replace it.

If you can’t find a NOS -1 tube, maybe ask Bar-Sto to fix you up with a custom barrel.
 
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I noticed my pattern is more to the left.
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I noticed the barrel has some lines and grooves on the inside. Is this normal?

If with continued practice your pattern consistently hits to the left you can address that by drifting the rear sight a hair to the right after loosening its set screw.

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Your close-up of the muzzle isn't very clear (not sure what post #6 is referring to) but burn marks that mimic the spacing of the rifling isn't unusual & certain loads make it more obvious but the marks alone should not send out any alarms.

However, I could see that the end of the guide rod was dinged up some, which itself doesn't affect anything.

But if the crown of the muzzle, where the rifling exits at the face of the barrel (where the black powder burns show) are also dinged up that could present a problem which could affect grouping.

Minor damage there can be cleaned up by chamfering the crown of the muzzle so all of the rifling present equally. (It's something I do commonly on my pistols & revolvers since I already have the tools to do it.)

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Note the slight angle/bevel (chamfer) where the rifling meets the face of the barrel.
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A lot of good information, I appreciate all the details in the posts. Thank you all. That's why I came here to get information from sources that have owned and used these guns longer than I have.

That being said, I wanted to start with cleaning the gun and then shooting it again on a steady pistol rest. I do have a sight drifter tool, but I wanted to make sure it wasn't just my technique needing more practice before using it.

In regards to the barrel bore rifling it makes sense that it's normal because of the consistency, I just wanted to make sure it wasn't excessive wear. I know my picture doesn't show the best detail. As far as the outer edge, it's fairly smooth only a little bit of burrs. I don't want to do anything drastic yet such as replacing the barrel until I try these other things first.
 
Welcome to the S&W Forums. To me, the muzzle and rifling appear to be standard S&W production quality. Might not be the greatest, but acceptable. I would certainly shoot it more before making any sight adjustments or altering the muzzle.
 
I'm in a weird place with my gun collection. I have almost everything that I want. The glaring exception is a 4506! Enjoy!
 
That being said, I wanted to start with cleaning the gun and then shooting it again on a steady pistol rest. I do have a sight drifter tool, but I wanted to make sure it wasn't just my technique needing more practice before using it.


Easy & cheap way to check your trigger pull.

Ensure your gun is empty & clear. Then, check it a second time to ensure it's empty & clear.

Aim at a definitive object such as a (let's say) a tennis ball on the ground. Slowly pull the trigger, dry firing the gun. Closely watch the front sight. If it remains steady, you're good to go. If it bounces all over the place during the trigger pull (like almost all new shooters do), then you need to practice dry firing for a few thousand times.

This is a no-cost way of making yourself a better shooter & you can do it from your recliner if you wish. I used to aim at the tv while watching the news................. :D
 
As far as the outer edge, it's fairly smooth only a little bit of burrs. I don't want to do anything drastic yet such as replacing the barrel until I try these other things first.


Barrels can be "recrowned" by a competent gunsmith for a moderate price. This is even sometimes needed on a brand-new gun that didn't have a proper crown from the factory.

Not to hurt your feelings here, but Smith autos (with a few exceptions) don't have a stellar rep for accuracy. They make up for that by shooting almost every kind of ammo they're fed.

If you're wanting good accuracy, then you're almost certainly going to have to go to an aftermarket barrel. There's probably not going to be a lot of options on this model. Few, in fact, IMO.

If you're wanting to get much smaller groups, then you're going to have to bump up a notch or three & get a higher tiered gun, such as an H&K, a good quality 1911, FN or several other brands. Doesn't necessarily mean you have to go expensive. Tisa, for example, has an excellent rep for not a lot of $$$. Ditto for Rock Island Armory. So, you have a wide choice of options when you're wanting to take the next step.

Don't forget to try different ammo. I have wonderful luck with PMC brand in .45acp & all my guns shoot it very, very well. Other shooters have good luck with ammo brands that I don't have, such as S&B and some others.

Almost every gun will shoot a brand a bunch better than other brands. The trick is finding what that brand is. :D

Good luck to you!
 
4506, I just love those things. Big beautiful beast. Pictures seldom do them justice.

I’m willing to bet there’s nothing wrong with the crown of that barrel. It’s just dirty. And you can get a pistol like that pretty clean without taking it apart. Scrub it good with an old toothbrush using Hoppes #9. Then blast it clean with starting fluid.j Outside, and no smoking, obviously.

But if you insist on talking it apart, Be very careful to not rotate the slide stop once you get it partially out. The tip of it is sharp enough to scratch the frame of the pistol: Called the Idiot scratch. Again, pull the slide stop straight out, dont twist, and reinstall the same way.

Almost every handgun I own shoots an inch or 2 to the left out of the box. I’ve long since chalked it up to the gun twisting as the bullet goes down the rifling.

Congrats, Vice. You scored a very nice fun. Don’t ever sell it. They quit making that heirloom long ago.
 
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Time out!
If you were unaware of the presence of lands and grooves in a pistol barrel, there is good chance this is your first firearm. Even if you've owned a rifle before, you're still a beginner. No shame in that - in fact, you ought to be congratulated, and welcomed to the ranks of gun owners. So, welcome!

I suggest a beginner class instead of all this other stuff. You might learn from Youtube but you won't learn what you really need to know. An NRA-certified instructor is a whole lot better than a few videos. And beginner classes will have a session on how to properly clean and lube your gun - again, a heck of a lot better than a video (I challenge any video to watch a student and give some helpful info on the spot... gotcha right there!) Any local gun shop will usually have the info you need to find a class.

Sounds like you might have a local range. Do they offer any classes? Talk to them and find out how to get started there, too. "Self-taught" is just another name for "wingin' it." Get in a class, and you'll learn how to develop your skills and become a far better shooter than you would otherwise.

I hope this helps. So often, new shooters get discouraged because their "gun shoots too far to the left, and I can't adjust the sights near enough!" except, it ain't the gun....
Best of luck to you and hope you enjoy!
 

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