Hello all,

Has anyone experienced a trigger/hammer fall malfunction on their 1076, where the hammer falls and stops at the half-cock (or decock position)? My newest (and best condition) 1076 does this about 80% of the time when dry firing. It will have to go to the factory for sure, but I wondered if someone here knew the origin of this problem on the frame decock models.

FYI, I had the same problem on a 1076 that I traded away in the mid 1990's. Didn't bother sending it back then because I thought they would keep making them forever (LOL).

Long live the 10mm!

Does this problem occur when your actually shooting the pistol? I have 1076 and 4576. Neither has this problem.

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1st Signal Brigade, RVN '70

I have not shot this one yet. However, the one I owned in the 1990's had the same problem whether dry firing or actual firing.

Although I've shot my 1076 without a problem, you got me to finally pull out my new A-Zoom Snap-Caps in 10mm Auto that I have never used and dry fire the big boy. I worked fine each time.

I assume that you're saying that when you pull the trigger the hammer falls to the half-cock position. It sounds like a sear and/or drawbar issue, but I've not heard of this before. Maybe some others familiar with the frame decockers can chime in.

If you send it back, just call Customer Service and request a "call tag so I can ship back my 1076 for a safety issue." The guy or gal doesn't need the details, save it for your letter that will accompany the pistol.

Good luck,

DD

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1st Signal Brigade, RVN '70

put a pencil down the barrel, eraser first, with the pistol pointing straight up, pull the trigger and see if it pops up, could be hammer bouncing back to the decock notch when dry firing

A big thank you and thumbs up to you all! I called SW and they also suggested the pencil eraser test (I use to do it to all my used guns, but haven't done it in 10-15+ years because I haven't had problems like this).

My pistol's hammer was, in fact, bouncing back after contacting the hammer, but it will not do it when the pencil is in the barrel. I'm guessing the firing pin spring is so heavy, it has enough power to bounce the hammer back to the decock position when it returns the firing pin if there is no contact with anything in the chamber. The momemtum changes when the firing pin contacts the object in the chamber (the eraser in this case, and hopefully primers when I get a free minute to go the the range), and the hammer will not bounce back. I was so skeptical I did the test for 30+ minutes...now my index finger is sore!

I guess I should recommend snap caps for any dry firing in cases like this. Without it, the firing pin must be extending fully until the taper seizes in the breach face hole, and this cannot be a good thing for the firing pin service life or the breach face hole dimension.

Take care all!!

Glad to read that your "problem" has been solved. FWIW, I always use snap caps whether recommended or not. "Better safe than sorry."

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Steve
NJ State Trooper (rtd)

Hummmmm . . .

I'm wondering if the mainsping (hammer spring) might be a bit on the weak side. I must admit that I'm no expert on what happens when dry firing without snap-caps because I don't do it. However, the hammer "bouncing" back just doesn't sound right to me.

Hey, take it out to the range and put 100 or 150 rounds through it and report back. Good luck.

DD

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1st Signal Brigade, RVN '70

I'll try it at the range on the 18th and let you know. I think the mainspring may have more to do with it than the firing pin spring too. But the one thing I cannont deny is that when the firing pin strikes something beyond the breach face hole (in this case it's an eraser), the hammer does not go into the decock position. I was skeptical when the SW rep told me that it was bouncing back, but I've fired it with the pencil eraser in the barrel at least 300 times and the hammer stays in the forward position.

Let me just say, I carry a Springfield PRO most of the time. Sometimes a P220, occasionally an M&P45 or P2000 .40. But I cannot wait to get the Kramer vertical holster for this thing! It'll become my second most carried weapon for sure!

God Bless all!

I just picked up a 1076 and a 1026 and the 1076 has this problem of the hammer bouncing back to half cock when decocking. It's so helpful to be able to look at some post from 2009 and see what was happening to me today in 2022. Happy Easter everyone!

Back in the early 90’s the department I worked for went from revolvers to semi autos. They chose the 10 mm because the FBI had done all the studies and the department determined since the studies were done there was nothing more to do. Kind of a “good enough for the FBI, good enough for us” attitude.
Shortly after we took possession of the pistols Smith sent a couple of armorers to the department and one by one we were called in. We gave the pistol to the armorer and he would change out a certain part. Sorry but I don’t remember what it was but I do remember the reason.
I asked why we were having to do this and I was told the FBI insisted on a specific part in the design. The armorer went on to say the Smith and Wesson design engineers told the FBI that it would cause problems but the FBI insisted the pistols be built to their specifications which Smith did.
There were problems and now Smith was in the field correcting the problem.
Sorry but too many years have passed for me to remember what the part and problem was but maybe someone at Smith can tell you. Contact them and see what they say.

See my post below ...

Check under the black tab of the decocking lever on both guns. Just pull it down slightly and see if there are two “dots” ( . . ) stamped into the frame.

If not, it never underwent the factory Recall work, which was a mid-1990s Recall on all S&W 3rd Gen decocker models to fix defects in the decocking assembly and trigger unit.

If the two dots are present, it underwent the Recall service.

But the real issue is whether S&W can, or will, do the Recall fix at this late date. AFAIK, all their experienced 3rd Gen armorers are long since retired or dead.

The kids working there now are just Millenial parts-swappers who service the M&P line.

Yep, my 1076 does this also. My 1006 does not. Seems like the 1076 is the only 3rd gen I own that bounces back. Doesn't hurt a thing. Fires perfect everytime.

Rosewood

I sent mine in years ago for the trigger play spring. Later I checked under the decocker and indeed saw the 2 dots. Later I sent my brothers in for the trigger play spring and when it was returned, I didn't see any dots, I believe I mentioned the recall on the RMA so they would do that while there. I contacted them back and they told me they did do the recall and didn't mark them anymore. Not sure if the person was ignorant of the subject or really telling me the truth.

Rosewood

OK, So I just picked up a 1076 and when I press the decocking lever it only drops to half cock and the hammer does not sit flush with the back of the slide. It does have the two dots under the decocking lever. Shouldn't the hammer drop so that it is flush with the back of the slide like it does when I dry fire it? Sorry , this is my first decocking lever gun.

Perfectly normal. No worries.

Rosewood

Not everyday I bump into another 1026 owner but when I do, it is usually on this forum...

Thanks for clarifying!

Which makes no sense, ... so either of the latter could be true.

The whole point of the armorers stamping two dots in the frame, and rather discreetly under the black tab, was to signal to an owner/user down the line that the Recall “fix” had been performed on that particular decocking model.

Doing it that way created a presumption that any frame-mounted decocking pistol without the dots had not had the Recall service performed and was thus presumptively still defective in the trigger or decocking assembly.

Suddenly changing the prior procedure and then fixing the pistol without marking it in some way to signal the fix, only creates ambiguity for the next owner(s) afterward, ... and I wouldn’t trust S&W’s customer service to retain accurate records of warranty or Recall work performed on all the 3rd Gen decocker models that were sold during that era.

I agree! I didn't like the response.

Rosewood

Yep DesertFox,

You are correct, only here on this forum. And yes I have two 1076s and a 1026. I knew one of my 1076s suffered from this "half cock" syndrome but had to dig all of them out of the safe because they are safe queens.

Dry fired them all and my one 1076 and 1026 snapped to half cock. "The HORROR!!"

I was relieved when I put my 10mm snap-cap in and the "problem went away."

As DUSTYDOGDAN said, it is nice a 2009 post can help out in 2022 thirteen years later.

And some folks around here get a little miffed when you revive a "zombie thread."

Long Live the Zombies!

I have a friend that has 2 1026s. My dad had 1 but his was stolen. The serial number was reported to the sheriff. I keep hoping it will show up one day.

Rosewood

I'm only missing 1086 and 1046 (yeah right, who isn't?) which I had chased for years and finally threw in the towel...

I'm torn on purchasing a new S&W 10mm. Such a fan of 10x6 series that I'm afraid of disappointment. Perhaps renew the quest for 1086 instead...

DesertFox,

They are out there. Seeking out a 1086 and 1046 is very ambitious indeed sir. On gun broker a decent 1076 goes for well over 2K. I could only imagine what a 1046 goes for as they only made 150. A couple of grail guns for sure. Bring your checkbook!

There are a number of folks who have these pistols around here.

I found a few pics from this website:



Good hunting!

Vegas odds are against obtaining a 1046 but a 1086 might be out there somewhere...