02 5.3 ltr. valve rattle??????????

84CJ

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I have a 2002 Z71 5.3 ltr that has a little tick in the valve train in the mornings. Tad over 50K on her. I have the oil changed at the same place. 5w30 Kendal syn blend. It also knocks if you don't warm it up for a few min. Not really a bad connecting rod or bad fuel type of ping. Didnt notice the knock until I put on a K&N FIPK II cold air intake. Figured the noise had alwys been there just couldn't hear it with the stock intake.

Any thoughts. It is time to change the oil so I thought I would get some thoughts on this. Like should I change to another brand oil.

Oh I am using the Tow mode On A Super Chip tuner.
 
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I have a 2002 Z71 5.3 ltr that has a little tick in the valve train in the mornings. Tad over 50K on her. I have the oil changed at the same place. 5w30 Kendal syn blend. It also knocks if you don't warm it up for a few min. Not really a bad connecting rod or bad fuel type of ping. Didnt notice the knock until I put on a K&N FIPK II cold air intake. Figured the noise had alwys been there just couldn't hear it with the stock intake.

Any thoughts. It is time to change the oil so I thought I would get some thoughts on this. Like should I change to another brand oil.

Oh I am using the Tow mode On A Super Chip tuner.
 
I kind of doubt it is the oil if it's the
correct weight. You might look into the oil
filter though. Some brands have inferior anti-
drain back valves in the filters, and that could
cause low oil pressure on start up.
The knocking sound would worry me a lot more
than the light valve noise. That usually means
low oil pressure which causes the bearings to
knock a bit.. But.. That could also be piston
slap when cold, so it's hard to tell on the
internet. I'd try a different filter. Get a
OEM stock filter from the dealer if possible.
You can pretty much bet it will have a decent
anti-drain valve if that engine requires one.
BTW.. one of the worst 3rd party filters to
use as far as the valve, are the orange Fram
filters. They are so bad I can't use those on
my Ford trucks.
 
There can be many causes for a light ticking under the hood. Unless you get out a stethoscope it's not something worth guessing about. However, just for jollies I'll list what I have encountered.

1) Bad valve lifter. Had one in a 1978 Riviera that made it sound like a diesel on a cold morning, once the engine warmed up it was fine.

2) Bad bearing in a water pump. Sounded exactly like a poorly adjusted valve lash. Found it by using an extra long screwdriver as a makeshift stethoscope.

3) Mixing motor oils. With some of the cheap oils sold in convenience stores this can produce a wax like precipitate. After adding 2 quarts to a 1979 Monza the iron duke 4 started with the worst valve noise I have evr heard about 500 feet from the convenience store. Fortunatelly there was an old fashioned service station on the next block and I got a quick oil change before any damage was done. Now I always travel with some spare oil in my car.

4) Bad PCV valve. Put a new one in for about 3 bucks and the noise was no more.

5) Bad check valve on the EGR system. Left in alone until it froze up solid. Still driving that car and it's almost to 170K miles and runs smooth.

6) Poorly set valve lash. Yeah, I have fooled around with mechanical valve lifters and sometimes haven't set them perfectly on the first attempt. If you've ever been on your back setting the lash on an old air cooled Beetle, you'll understand why. That's where I learned to check everything 3 times before buttoning it up and starting the engine.

A lot of this won't apply to an engine as modern as yours. Got to Sears and get the longest philips head screwdriver they have. They make an excellent cheap stethoscope. Put the tip on an area you want to listen to and jam the handle against your ear. When you get close to the source, you will hear the noise get louder. Just be damn careful around the belt, if it catches the screwdriver it will launch it like a missle. BTW, I have not had that experience because I have always been very very careful when doing this.

Anyhow, that's how I would approach this problem. I like to know the cause before going to a mechanic. Fact is, I have never had very good luck with letting someone else do work on my cars.
 
Very common in this engine. Do a search for "cold start knock" on 5.3's. The general consensus is it's only annoying. My '02 Tahoe had it. GM would readily give out free 100,000 mile warranties to people who would gripe, so I don't think they were concerned about it either.

It is actually the piston rings rattling until they warm up and expand. Hope this helps.

Take Care,
BKD
 
Find a 5.3 without that noise and you have a rare bird. Friends 02 pickup has had the noise for the last 65 of it's 75 thousand miles. Don't worry about it.
 
pull it out and put a 454 in it
icon_smile.gif
 
I have a 01 GMC Sierra 4x4 with a 5.3 and it has been doing that for at least 90 thousand miles and she is still going strong, only does it when cold and after she warms up in a few min. it goes away. No worries here.
 
Cold start knock. That takes care of that one and I think the filter will take care of the ticking. It is quite and smoth as silk when it warms up. I tried to look at the filter to see what brand it is cant read the name. It is white and has service....something on it. I will inquire about the quality of filter they use.Or maybe I should start changing it myself as I do with all my other vehicles.

We can talk about them later
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THANKS
This has certainly been helpful.
 
Absolutely-get a known good quality (OEM) filter into her. Lot's of bulk ChiCom stuff out there now. Who knows who supplies quick lube places? That engine is noted (as the others have said) for sounding a bit trashy when running cold.
 
Its your oil filter....

Some have a check valve in them that keep the system from draining down.

I don't remember which brand cured it. I'll find out for ya.
 
Piston knock, Gm had a problem with 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 engines. It will have a normal life expectancy. I would not suggest having GM tear the engine down and replace parts. And I have never heard of one replaced complete under warranty. That doesn't mean it couldn't happen.
 
Sar,
What did they do on those, use forged pistons, pistons with too short a skirt, or are the wrist pins tight? Or some combination of same?
 
I believe they came with hypereutectic pistons, that did not expand at the correct rate. I do not have the bulletin anymore, but it has been a problem in trucks since this series engine debuted. Alldata or Mitchell on Demand may make them available to the public. Maybe just a search for piston noise, on the internet. These were new enough that they were still the dealers problem, I've had two and never got anywhere with the dealer, It makes them hard to trade in. http://www.gmproblems.com/engine.htm Search deeper than this!
 
Talked to my buddy that had the same problem. He said all it took was a heavier oil and a GM filter.
I never agreed with the manufacturers using 5w in anything. I run at least 10w in my vehicles. So I loose a little economy, I gain a lot of engine life.

hypereutectic is a fancy way of saying cast. Piston slap is not generally an idle, or cold start up condition. It is ussualy a higher RPM range noise.
 
Hypereutectic is a fancy way of saying a cast aluminum piston that has the same expansion properties as the cast iron block. To try to control piston slap among other things. The next spec in oil is supposed to be a 0w20 synthetic. And GM's piston slap occurs at idle as well. There are design reasons why all newer cars use thin oil, and some designs you will void your warranty using the wrong weight oil. But definitely use an OEM filter. There have also been some carbon build up problems where the build up physically touches the head until warmed up. And there are various cleaners, some that are effective, at removing the carbon. This usually is on high mileage vehicles.
 
Cold engine knock is common in GM. They have several bullentins out on it. To be sure I would add some gas guard to the fuel and flush out the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. Might be some lead buildup
 
I had an 03 Yukon with the same issue until one cold morning when I started it and got a cloud of blue smoke. Took it to the dealer where they tore it down, did a full top 1/2 rebuild to correct the issue. IIRC the oil pickup in the pan was too long and causing an issue of not allowing enough oil to be picked up and pumped to the top of the engine during startup. This caused the valve guides/seals to fail allowing oil into the cylinders and thus the smoke.

An earlier post was correct in stating there are several service bulletins on the issues and I would suggest that you get yours to the dealer so it is at least documented on paper and in the system if you have a problem later.

All of this was fully covered under warranty even though the mileage was over the stated warranty limit. The also found an issue at the same time with the intake manifold gasket that was causing other problems that was not a surprise to the Service Manager so I would expect it was something they had seen before.

I have no complaints as they gladly did the repairs and did not even mention my paying for any part of it.
 
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