Have a chance to purchase a S&W 13-2 with pinned barrel and recessed cylinder. The serial number is 5D81873. I have two questions for the group. 1. What year was this pistol made? 2. For the same price of $750 out the door would you rather this 13-2 or a 686-6? I really like the 686-6 but feel this 13-2 calling me.
13-2 serial number lookup
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kraynky
Member
I think the 13-2 would be my choice, however I would not personally pay that amount for one without the original grips at least.
I can't help you with the year right now because I'm away from my resources. I do have a 13-2 in nickel that I paid less for about this time last year, with the original stocks.
Both are good guns. Which one "fits" your hand best?
I can't help you with the year right now because I'm away from my resources. I do have a 13-2 in nickel that I paid less for about this time last year, with the original stocks.
Both are good guns. Which one "fits" your hand best?
Attachments
13-2's were made from 1977 to 1982.
Birdhunter6
Member
The catalog shows 4D-6D serials as 1979.
wgg
Member
There is a 13-1 listed in the classifieds on this forum. It appears to be a nice example. May give you an idea on pricing. Good luck with your choice.
Glen
Glen
I'm afraid that you'll have to make that tough decision, based primarily on your preference for vintage blued revolvers or newer SS revolvers. But it sounds like you're leaning towards the 13-2. Personally, I prefer revolvers with target sights (the 686-6 from around 2015) instead of combat sights (the Model 13-2 ca. 1979). Both revolvers show some wear, but the scratches on the 686-6 can be easily polished out. The L-frames are also built a little stronger than the K-frames, IMO. If you go with the 13-2, you may want to find some period correct magna stocks which will cost you another $100+. If that 686-6 was a Plus version (7-rds) it would be a no brainer choice for me. I recently picked up a 3" 686-6 Plus for $750 OTD. Good luck, and keep us posted on your decision!
I'm just the opposite of Hawg Rider. I like fixed sight guns for self defense and the K frame 13 is just right for me. I do, however, have a 3" 686+ loaded up in the kitchen, just in case a standing rib roast gets wise with me. Thinking about it, I'm never more than an arm's length from a loaded firearm but that's for another section. 
Doug M.
Member
The Pachmyer grips are exponentially more practical than wood, especially if shooting stouter ammo. That 13-2 is from a time when most serious shooters tossed the wood and went to rubber. S&W's fixed sights don't work well for my eyes, but I also don't like the full lug barrels and the extra hole in the 686.
With the finish wear, you can't mess up that 13, and frankly, if I bought it, it would get some custom sights (XS Big Dot comes to mind, with some added on fixed rear with a big U notch); a rounded butt, and maybe some tougher finish like electroless nickel. Not a good fiscal choice, but appealing.
My M66 was worked on in the custom shop about 20 years ago (gold bead Patridge, action job, etc) and round butted by BMCM. I probably have $500 or so in it, so I don't need another similar platform for 2X the money. When I carry a revolver, it is usually that.
With the finish wear, you can't mess up that 13, and frankly, if I bought it, it would get some custom sights (XS Big Dot comes to mind, with some added on fixed rear with a big U notch); a rounded butt, and maybe some tougher finish like electroless nickel. Not a good fiscal choice, but appealing.
My M66 was worked on in the custom shop about 20 years ago (gold bead Patridge, action job, etc) and round butted by BMCM. I probably have $500 or so in it, so I don't need another similar platform for 2X the money. When I carry a revolver, it is usually that.
