15-22 Pistol with butt stock? SBR project.

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Anyone do this? I am already a stamp collector. Looking to make a internally suppressed looking SBR.

I saw the youtube video of the guy making the butt stock adaptors but cant find them for sale on ebay etc.

Let me know if you have any info on how I can permenatly install a buffer tube (non functioning) or info on a adaptor etc.

Or heck anyone in the market for a 15-22p barely fired? :)
 
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Anyone do this? I am already a stamp collector. Looking to make a internally suppressed looking SBR.

I saw the youtube video of the guy making the butt stock adaptors but cant find them for sale on ebay etc.

Let me know if you have any info on how I can permenatly install a buffer tube (non functioning) or info on a adaptor etc.

Or heck anyone in the market for a 15-22p barely fired? :)


I would hold on to your 22p
1.It will cost you more to cut and crown your barrel.
2.The bolt carriers are different on the pistols for a reason.
3.A machine shop can fab a buffer tube adapter quickly so that you can add any style of tube once you get your stamp. Including fixed stock.

Be unique and think outside the box. Add a truly different modded mp15-22 to the picture thread instead of adding and looking at the same collectivism we have now.
 
It would cost more to do it that way though. If he sells the pistol he can pay for the stamp and have the barrel cut. You know how much machine shops charge for fabbing? It's pricy. Plus once you sbr the 15-22 I see no use for the pistol since it would have the same size barrels, give or take.
 
I think the big plus side to the pistol, would be using it as an organ (parts) donor. The bolt and springs in the P are already reduced in weight to accommodate a 6" barrel. If you compare the parts between your 15-22 and 15-22P you will find some substantial differences in the bolt. There is quite a bit of weight reduction for it to cycle correctly at only a 6" barrel. Plus the springs are different as well.

As a "stamp collector" you are already accustomed to dumping a certain amount cash to have the cool kid toys that you really want. ;) And since we aren't talking about mega $ for real AR stuff. If it was me, which eventually it will be since this is on my extended "to do" list.....
I would buy a new garden variety plain Jane M&P 15-22 rifle and do the SBR paperwork at 6". Then swap over the complete pistol upper you already have. When you take the 6" pistol barrel with a 5" suppressor it makes a perfect 11" overall. Then look around and acquire another rifle hand guard and cut it down to your desired exposure length and swap it over to the pistol upper. You now have the best of all worlds.
1)You have a pistol lower sitting unused, which you said you didn't particularly dig anyway, but it is still available to swap back and forth if the mood strikes you.
2) A spare complete rifle upper to set up for a different purpose. Put a red dot on one and a scope and bipod on the other, or what ever you want to do.
3) And a slick 11" internally suppressed SBR.

Just thinking out loud. You already have the YHM suppressor. You already have the donor M&P15-22P. So out of pocket it costs you $200 for the stamp, and $450 for the new rifle. Then it is all plug and play.

As far as swapping the suppressor over to another weapon. you can buy a blank fake can for less than $30 at cheaper than dirt. Put that on the SBR when you take off the real one.
 
Ive done the research and talked to the machine shops around here and the highest quote was 80 bucks.

Now thats a small price to pay in order to have a fully functional mp22 sbr, with the proper bolt/springs that will support the blowback level to shoot many choices in ammo brands and several options for custom stock including fixed or folding.

If you are going to simply choose to ignore the bolded, then why even do this.

At the same time, if you have the money to blow why not just use real AR parts and start from scratch. Well, for me you really cant beat the the mp22 light weight design. Poly upper, lower, hand guard and one barrel nut to take it all apart. It's still my favorite option when I go out plinking for hours on the ranch.
 
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Mine has functioned flawlessly with the standard rifle bolt and springs. I can't see why he would spend $600 when he could sell the pistol to fund the project and spend nothing out of pocket.
 
Ok this has to be done. I am going to run the rifle bolt in the pistol and the pistol bolt in the rifle, attach the suppressor and go outback and shoot a mag of cci subsonic through each and maybe video it and put it on youtube and post it up here and test it.

I am aware of the differences in the bolt. I am also aware that low down has not had a prob running a stock rifle bolt with a 6 in barrel suppressed. I intend to cut mine down to 3.75 or 4 to go subsonic with all ammo. I usually shoot fed bulk. So I may need the pistol bolt to cycle correctly. I will have both so Im in luck there.

Back to the replies. Thanks for thinking out loud with me. Its a fun process to have these options. If I only had the rifle its a no brainer decision but I find myself wanting to make a use for this pistol instead of selling it for prob a big loss.

The thought of putting a fake can on it when my real can is on something else was a cool idea.
 
That's crazy short, most of the sbr ar .22's I've seen usually have 4.5-5.5" barrels.
 
Im using my walther p22 barrel suppressed for a length reference. Its silly quiet.

I saw one place that took a 6 in barrel and ported it and it ran subsonic with all ammo.

Its a accuracy vs decibel pro/con debate on what to do. My walther P-22 is not very accurate thats for sure and paying more $$ for subsonic ammo is no big deal in the scheme of things.
 
video test

S&W M&P 15-22 bolt test - YouTube

Ok here is the video, not much difference honestly. The pistol with the rifle bolt failed to hold bolt open when mag was spent and had one good mag failure.

The rifle with the pistol bolt had one fail to strike I think.

All could be attributed to low velocity subsonic ammo.

The YHM mite sounds a bit louder due to hard surroundings at make shift range. I also have it covered with heat shrink tubing as it tends to get warm.
 
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