1911

pantannojack

US Veteran
Joined
Jun 2, 2011
Messages
1,689
Reaction score
2,051
Location
the ready line, N. Idaho
I dusted off my Kimber Custom 1911 .45. 200g Ranier SWC copper coated 1.22" COL, CCI 300, 5.3g 231, mixed brass. It ran flawless as I recalled 5 years ago last outing. Accy very acceptable and predictable impact to sights as I call my shots before looking. On reading up I noticed some don't like shok buffers, some do. I believe it to be original 16lb recoil spring, et all. To release a locked back slide I must thumb the lever down, the slide is full back because of the red buffer and cannot be released by pulling further to rear. Might releasing the slide repeatedly in dry fire drills with a powerful spring but no dummy round be bad for the frame?

It seemed to kick harder than my 45 Shield using similar load, but not alarmingly so.

Any advice on the buffer? It has been installed some 15 or more years, but only 500 firings or so.
 
Register to hide this ad
I'm not a fan of buffers in 1911's. My perception is that there is actually more felt recoil with the buffer than without. I prefer an 18 lb spring and no buffer.

Regarding releasing the slide lock and letting the slide close without a dummy round, I would not recommend it. The action of feeding a round from the magazine slows the slide down and absorbs some of the energy. The slide closes at a much higher velocity if you just let it go without feeding something.
 
I subscribe to using factory OEM weight springs when shooting non +P velocity loads, which it appears you are doing. Higher power springs purportedly put extra stress on everything when the slide returns to battery, so you likely are just fine with a factory weight spring in good condition.

I don't have a problem with a shock buffer as long as it does not interfere in any manner with the normal functioning of the pistol. It sounds like the buffer you are using might be slightly restricting the rearward movement of your slide.
 
Buffers are ok for a range toy, but I would not trust them in a pistol used for serious purposes. As for thumbing down the slide lock, with a buffer you have no other choice. The question of dropping the slide on an empty chamber will elicit two answers. One group says it's fine to do. The other group contends that the shock allows the hammer hooks to bounce on the face of the sear, potentially damaging the sear face and eventually the hammer will start to follow the slide. Personally, I'm not a fan of dropping the slide on an empty chamber, but I had to during USPSA matches as that it is required once you finish shooting a stage and I did use a buffer in my competition 1911.
 
Last edited:
If you're going to keep the buffer, change it. Back when that was a really popular thing, a lot of 1911s developed cracks just forward of where the dust cover meets the frame. The theory was that the bulging buffer (on slide impact) was loading the dust cover in a direction it was never designed to take.

FWIW, there was a study done on the shock forces on a 1911 slide during recoil when using GI hardball and a 16 lb spring. The shock of firing was 2000 Gs, full recoil was 800 Gs and going into battery was 850 Gs while stripping a round. I'd avoid free drops of the slide more for additional load/possible peening on the barrel underlug and slide stop.

Also back in the day, there were some stupendously/stupidly strong recoil springs used "to reduce recoil". We saw a lot of broken slide stops and sheared barrel lugs that launched the slide assembly down range.
 
Last edited:
DO away with the buffer ,read up on orher ways to control felt recoil. "A square bottom firing pin stop is one way," A heaver recoil spring causes more muzzle dip when it slams the slide closed .


This is the way to go IMO. Get an oversized stop and break the bottom edge with just enough radius to ease into the hammer. You may have to bevel it slightly to remain in full contact with the hammer as the slide comes back. It really changes the recoil characteristics and return to zero of the gun. I use Ed Brown Hardcore parts but you can get them from Wilson or whomever.
 
I have not used buffers in any of my guns and figure if they were needed in the first place, they would come from the factory with one already installed. IMHO they are something some like to think will extend the life of their gun. In reality I have shot 10's and 10's of thousands of rounds through 1911's, M41, etc. with no ill effects. Hence I don'y have any guns with buffers.
 
The one caliber in the 1911 that might benefit from a buffer is 10mm Auto, but only if full power form. Colt evidently felt that the 1911 needed some recoil impact protection with the 10mm and their solution was a dual recoil spring set on a plastic recoil spring guide. The guide was a sacrificial item, to be replaced on a regular basis. A properly built 1911 chambered in 10mm really needs a flat bottom firing pin stop and a pretty heavy hammer spring as this combination really slows the slide's initial movement rearward and delays unlocking of the barrel. With such an arrangement, the recoil spring does not need to be overly heavy nor a dual spring arrangement.
 
Last edited:
Actually a trifle heaver main spring with the flat bottom firing pin stop might accomplish less recoil .Also their is a bow tie cut on the lug (barrel
stop ) that i would consider if the recoil is hhat heavy
 

Latest posts

Back
Top