1st impressions of Kroil & Renaissance Wax, and my waxing experiment

[DeathGrip]

guitar1580, It's S100 not $100. Gooood stuff.

 

[GlossyTundra]

OP here, and thanks for the comments. I'd like to stress the fact that I'm not knocking the Ren Wax, and I do not doubt that micro crystalline is a great product for firearms, I'm just trying to take it a step further to see if it is the "best" for the actual metal part.

For me, the biggest reason for waxing, is moisture protection / rust prevention, and that is the reason for experimenting with the car & instrument waxes.

As for the NRA museum, that's great, and I would not doubt that paste wax works well, but for museum pieces in a climate controlled room, moisture & condensation are probably not an issue. I don't expect museum guns to be taken out in the rain and snow on hunting trips, or carried for 12 hrs in a leather holster or in pants pocket soaked with sweat, rain, mud, etc. To them, it may have been more important to have one product that works well for metal, leather, wood, and paper, rather than the moisture barrier that I'm looking for.

Glossy Tundra, my can of Calif Gold says "cleaner wax" on the can, but I did try it on an old gun, and it worked great. The abrasives aren't coarse enough to scratch, but I suppose it could wear a finish thin if you rubbed enough, so the pure carnauba is what I want to try. No need to spend $100 at the Harley shop, the guitar wax in my original post is pure carnauba for about $6 a can.

My next experiment will have to wait until the weather warms up. I want to compare the different waxes on the trunk lid of my car to see how they compare. I encourage anyone to try whatever non abrasive car wax you have on a gun frame and see how it feels when you wipe it down with a microfiber or flannel cloth, and let me know what you think.

JP

Glad to see what you have works, but dont use it more than on occasion. The cleaners will fade the finish over time. S-100 is only $15 .

 

[guitar1580]

Yes I have heard that the S100 is good, but it seemed expensive the last time I checked our local Harley shop. My non Harley friends kid me that HD stands for "hundred dollars" every time you go to the shop.

Yes, I wouldn't recommend the "cleaner" style wax for guns. The guitar wax is abrasive free, and the complimentary can from Harvey Gerlitz should be here tomorrow. I think it's going to work very nicely on a clean smooth S&W.

JP

 

[DeathGrip]

Yes I have heard that the S100 is good, but it seemed expensive the last time I checked our local Harley shop. My non Harley friends kid me that HD stands for "hundred dollars" every time you go to the shop.
JP

Soo, You were joking.

Anyhow, I've never waxed a gun either.

Good thread and I'll be watching for more results.

$100. You got me.

 

[amazingflapjack]

I did not like RW. On NIB blued gun it enhanced fine swirls from factory! I like Flitz and Mom's mag pol, they clean and protect. I see folks on here say that Flitz is abreasive, but the container says it's not. Flapjack.

 

[samuelrp]

Ren Wax works well on pocket knives, but requires fairly soon reapplication if you carry the knife daily. I tried it on an old Ruger 10-22 stock, and I think the wood looks darker now, although it may be my immagination.

 

[guitar1580]

Update, and pics

Yes flapjack, I like the Flitz too, but I've only used it on my nickel N frame, not a blue gun. I always thought Flitz and Mother's were both abrasive.

I finally got the Gerlitz guitar wax this week and tried it on an early 90's red Ibanez Voyager, and a 70s blue S&W model 10, neither of which have perfect finishes.

I have to commend Harvey Gerlitz for personally answering my questions promptly, and for sending me the complimentary can, and the super soft fuzzy rag, in appreciation of my interest / questions. I told him I'd recommend it on the guitar and gun forums, "if" I like it.... and I definitely do.

It performs much like any good carnauba car wax, but without the scents, colorings, abrasives, etc. It seemed easy to work with, and definitely leaves a lasting protective slick shiny barrier which seems like it will last. I did not use it on the stocks, but shined them with Ren Wax.

For hunting or working guns which may be subjected to rain, sweat, or moisture, I think the Gerlitz carnauba wax could be highly effective in rust prevention.

For the old red banged up guitar - thumbs up also. It is dull from pick marks below the strings, and would actually shine much better if I rubbed it out with some very fine compound that I have, but it would just get scratched up again. I just gave the red paint one waxing, without removing the strings or detailing the bridge and black hardware. It shined up quite nicely, and it feels like the paint has a protective layer ... although it's as slippery as a greased hog ... it almost shot out of my lap while I was putting the back covers back on.

All in all, I'm not saying that the instrument wax is better or worse than Ren, Johnson's, or old fashioned oiling, but I'd say it is up there with them, and a viable option for some guns & some situations. Nice shine, slick pocket draw, great moisture & fingerprint barrier, holds up very well. I would recommend it, and will continue to use it.

The new server rocks, lots of pics here, hope ya'll like. Let me know what you think. Waxing the Harley next ... think spring.

Josh P

 

[Rule3]

I'll take both. PM to follow!

 

[guitar1580]

Sounds good Roy. As per standard modern practice, just go ahead and send a blank check.

JP

 

[OK Hog Shooter]

I can't help myself... here goes... "wax on... wax off"

 

[bower]

I let the REN wax sit overnight after application before buffing off.

 

[dennis13]

Renaissance wax/polish

You are obviously NOT applying the Renaissance wax/polish properly. Please conatct me.
thank you,
Dennis

I am The Exclusive U.S. Agent/Wholesale-Distributor since 1993
for Picreator Enterprises Ltd. of London, England.
Manufacturer of 'Renaissance micro-crystalline wax/polish','Vulpex liquid soap','Pre-Lim surface cleaner','Renaissance metal decorroder','GroomStick archival cleaner'& other unique restoration supplies used by museums, galleries, professionals, manufacturers, retailers & collectors Worldwide!

Dennis Blaine
6819 S.E. Sleepy Hollow Lane
Stuart, FL. 34997-4757

Phone 772-219-0436 [USA] 1-800-229-5530
Cell 772-631-4156
Fax 772-219-7674
Email: [email protected]

 

[TACC1]

Years ago I started doing some serious hunting. Before
that, I was a fair weather hunter. Hunting in all conditions,
and everyday soon had me worried about rust. Started using
Johnson's car wax. That, and oily rags were all I used prior to
learning about RenWax here on the Forum. So impressed with
it, that All the firearms have a coat of RenWax now.
Hey, whatever works; just so you're happy with the results.
(Haven't had a chance to show this one for a while.)
TACC1

 

[Pete99004]

I've had good luck with RW - I use it by putting a small amount on my finger and rubbing it in circlular motion in a small area - cont. to do that overlapping each prior area when doing the next area. Easy to buff off since it is going on in a thin layer. Once buffed, I find that finger prints do not show - so if you have finger prints that are tough to get off, something is not right. Either your firearm was oily or you put the RW on to thick and didn't get it all buffed out. Try a small area using your finger as above and see if that works better.

Naturally, it's your firearm, so use whatever you are happy using, but I think RW works great. Here are a couple of photos of mine after R/Waxing:






Pete

 

[Rugskipper]

Lesson one, Daniel-san: