1st time “under the hood” … as it were

Bumpus13

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Huh? Not sure why I was so intimidated to try this before today.

My K-22 Masterpiece (c. 1948) wasn't firing reliably on all cylinders in double action. Sometimes it would, but rarely … more commonly, it'd take at least two strikes on 2 or 3 shots per cylinder.

So, I broke it down and cleaned the gunk out of the action. Looked like it hadn't been opened in decades (if ever since leaving the factory)

Using YouTube as a video tutorial is really a helpful tool. It turned out much simpler than I thought it'd be - except for the rebound slide spring - that thing is a PITA without the right tool. But, she's back up and running now (I believe - going to the range tonight to verify that I'm not speaking too soon. ;) )

I'm just hoping that the problem is fixed with a thorough cleaning. Fingers crossed.


(soaking in Ballistol / reassembly process / quick hit of Ren Wax)
 

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It's great to be your own gunsmith for things like this.

It's amazing how many gun owners there are who are terrified to turn a screw on any of their guns.

It's really easy and enjoyable as long as you have the right tools and a modicum of ambition and patience.
 
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For the rebound spring, you can use a small Phillips screwdriver tip. Put one of the slots on the tip facing down, to go over the top of the pin, put the point of the tip in the end of the spring and compress it. Once you get the bottom of the spring behind the pin, you can push it all the way down with a blade screwdriver tip.

To keep the hammer block in place while you get the sideplate on, put it in place, all the way up, then roll the gun over on the barrel so the grip is up at about a 30 degree angle. Gravity will hold it there for you.
 
Well, **** … that didn't fix the problem.

It's having light primer strikes roughly half of the time in double action. A second strike tends to set them off, but the *click* instead of *bang* is really getting annoying. Ideas?
 
Well, **** … that didn't fix the problem.

It's having light primer strikes roughly half of the time in double action. A second strike tends to set them off, but the *click* instead of *bang* is really getting annoying. Ideas?

Are you using a factory mainspring? Is the strain screw tight? The mainspring should have a distinct arch to it. If it doesn't, the strain screw may have been shortened. Try using a spent primer cup between the end of the strain screw and the mainspring.
 
Are you using a factory mainspring? Is the strain screw tight? The mainspring should have a distinct arch to it. If it doesn't, the strain screw may have been shortened. Try using a spent primer cup between the end of the strain screw and the mainspring.

That was precisely the issue with my K-22. The spent primer solved it for me.
 
The bend of the mainspring, length of strain screw, primer cup, etc. are all just guessing, with no way to know where you're at. You need to quantify how much force the mainspring is applying to the hammer.

Hook your trigger pull gage (you do have one don't you?) on the face of the hammer, and with the trigger held back see what the reading is on the trigger pull gage when it just starts to come off the frame when pulling it. Write down that number. When you get to where it fires reliably, write down that number and keep it for future reference. It takes about 30 seconds to do this check.

If you need a harder hit, you can measure how much of a change was made by whatever you did (Spring, strain screw, primer cup, etc.). Now you're not guessing, you're measuring, and you can always tell how much spring pressure is on the hammer. If you start getting light strikes again, you can see if that number changed. If so, maybe the strain screw is backing out. If not, may be ammo related, broken firing pin, or something else.
 
The bend of the mainspring, length of strain screw, primer cup, etc. are all just guessing, with no way to know where you're at. You need to quantify how much force the mainspring is applying to the hammer.

Hook your trigger pull gage (you do have one don't you?) on the face of the hammer, and with the trigger held back see what the reading is on the trigger pull gage when it just starts to come off the frame when pulling it. Write down that number. When you get to where it fires reliably, write down that number and keep it for future reference. It takes about 30 seconds to do this check.

If you need a harder hit, you can measure how much of a change was made by whatever you did (Spring, strain screw, primer cup, etc.). Now you're not guessing, you're measuring, and you can always tell how much spring pressure is on the hammer. If you start getting light strikes again, you can see if that number changed. If so, maybe the strain screw is backing out. If not, may be ammo related, broken firing pin, or something else.

Negative.

A decent set of hollow ground screwdrivers is about as far as I go when it comes to firearms-specific tools.
 
Something to check

The strain screw is frequently fitted (reduced in length) to apply just enough pressure for ignition while being screwed down tight. If that screw is too short, you can have those ignition issues.

Something to check is whether the screw is rounded or flat (indicating it has probably been ground, sanded or filed down). If that's the case, a new (longer) screw or the previously mentioned primer cup could fix the problem.



Photo found on the interwebs.
 
It is very satisfying to be able to repair your own firearms, without having to leave them at a gunsmith for days or weeks at a time. All good information above about extending the strain screw, reassembly & checking the hammer spring.

I took a small flat screwdriver and notched out the center of the blade to make a good rebound spring tool. You tube has some good videos, and some with bad advice. Checking in here will provide great advice!

Let us know how things work out. I need to get another model K-22, as I foolishly let my 17-3 go some time ago. Don't do that, you WILL regret it!
 
In your second photo……if your gun is assembled and the strain screw is tight you don't have near enough arch on the main spring. Possibly a previous owner shortened the screw. You can use an Allen type set screw in its place and tighten until 100% function is achieved.

That's definitely what I'm thinking now. Looks like I'm going to be trying a new screw.
 
I don't touch tools then I don't break anything or hurt myself. The gunsmith needs to feed his family also LOL;)
 
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