.223 / 5.56 Brass Seperation

[PeeShooter]

Still kind of new at this caliber reloading and I'm wondering if my brass separation frustration is worth it.

Do you guys separate 223 v. 5.56 brass? I just got done with a bunch and many of the head stamps dont say which one it is. Is it safe to assume that if it doesn't say 223 on it, it's 5.56 brass?

I know, or at least someone told me that 5.56 brass is meant for loads with higher pressure, so when I load my long distance stuff with 77 grain bullets, i make sure the brass is 5.56.

Another thing that adds to this problem is that I'm a First Class Brass Whore and pick up every piece of brass I see. It's a honorable addiction but makes it cheaper to have the 40,000 loaded round inventory I have. I even reload (which I dont count in my inventory numbers) Wolf steel shells which contrary to popular belief ARE re-loadable. I took a count test with 45 ACP and stopped counting at 8 reloads with a handful of Wolf shells. You just want to have carbide dies and I doubt I'd try it with 9MM. But they are nice to use for action competition shoots when you really dont want to be trying to recover your brass.

 

[Rule3]

It is a long drawn out battle (discussion) Lines are drawn in the sand, blood shed, Many many debates on it.

The major consensus is that it really makes no difference. For all intent they are the same,

Yes, I would say that if it is not stamped 223 than it is 5.56.

Once sized and trimmed you will not know the difference.

 

[RV4driver]

A lot of the 5.56 stuff will have the NATO headstamp. (Circle with a cross in it).

 

[smokindog]

Since you've got so much brass, Midsouth has free shipping (through today) on Hornady 55g soft point w/canelure and multiple powders in 8 lbs jugs for great rounds Christmas in September!!!

I ordered Tuesday and everything arrived today!

 

[eyegots2no]

If does not say 223, it is probably some arsenal brass----it will have the arsenal code and the year, i.e. TW 77, LC 79, WCC 80. More recent ammo has the NATO stamp as well. There is alot of Nato ammo being made here, Canada, Isreal, Korea, South Africa, etc.

Some will say that the military brass is a bit thicker (less room inside), so if on ragged edge of loading---to load accordingly.

I have done a weight test and this does not seem to be true unless, the reason I do not get heavier readings on military brass is because off a different mixture of the elements (copper and zinc).

You did say something about long distance shooting---so----using the same headstamp for THAT could likely help your consistency or groups.

 

[gregintenn]

I throw them all in a bucket and load them indiscriminately, except for my accuracy loads. These are close in weight, matching headstamp, etc. They are kept in a separate container away from the other stuff.

Cut the crimp out of the primer pocket, and load em all up.

 

[PeeShooter]

Since you've got so much brass, Midsouth has free shipping (through today) on Hornady 55g soft point w/canelure and multiple powders in 8 lbs jugs for great rounds Christmas in September!!!

I ordered Tuesday and everything arrived today!

Thanks I've got lots of powder and bullets: I'm always taking advantage of sales.

 

[PeeShooter]

If does not say 223, it is probably some arsenal brass----it will have the arsenal code and the year, i.e. TW 77, LC 79, WCC 80. More recent ammo has the NATO stamp as well. There is alot of Nato ammo being made here, Canada, Isreal, Korea, South Africa, etc.

Some will say that the military brass is a bit thicker (less room inside), so if on ragged edge of loading---to load accordingly.

I have done a weight test and this does not seem to be true unless, the reason I do not get heavier readings on military brass is because off a different mixture of the elements (copper and zinc).

You did say something about long distance shooting---so----using the same headstamp for THAT could likely help your consistency or groups.

That's kind of what I thought, no 223 probably 5.56. Yea I've been loading for more than 40 years, I watch head stamp on my, I call them, "money shots". I keep a good stash well labeled.

 

[PeeShooter]

OK a little change of subject. I have both the primer pocket reamer...the RCBS multi task gizmo and I think it's an RCBS swagger.

Does it make any difference other than swagging is much faster I find anyway.

 

[gregintenn]

OK a little change of subject. I have both the primer pocket reamer...the RCBS multi task gizmo and I think it's an RCBS swagger.

Does it make any difference other than swagging is much faster I find anyway.

I've found a quick twist with a chamfer tool does the trick. As long as you can seat a primer, well, that's what you're looking for.

 

[andyo5]

The brass is exactly the same except for the headstamp. What IS different is that 5.56 factory rounds are loaded hotter because the 5.56 chamber is larger and will keep pressures down. 223 chambers are more shallow and are considered unsafe with 5.56 spec. ammo.

 

[Rule3]

OK a little change of subject. I have both the primer pocket reamer...the RCBS multi task gizmo and I think it's an RCBS swagger.

Does it make any difference other than swagging is much faster I find anyway.

I had 2 different swaggers, Sold both I prefer to chuck the reamer in a drill and just ream them out. Makes no difference again, Get the crimp out is all that matters.

 

[PeeShooter]

Thanks for everything guys.

 

[Geo. T.]

Well!

I have the Dillon swagger and it is very fast and saves wear and tear on the fingers.

I agree that their is no real difference from mil spec case to another. However when I want decent accuracy I sort them for the same head stamp. However if I really want to wring the most out of the load , rifle and me I use commercial brass from the same lot and sorted by weight. I find Winchester the best commercial brass but Lapua , Norma and Nosler a cut above.

 

[moxie]

Once 5.56 is fired, the brass becomes .223 brass for all intents and purposes. There is no point in separating by headstamp unless you are benchrest shooting or similar.

 

[Bigdog357]

The brass is exactly the same except for the headstamp. What IS different is that 5.56 factory rounds are loaded hotter because the 5.56 chamber is larger and will keep pressures down. 223 chambers are more shallow and are considered unsafe with 5.56 spec. ammo.

So if I understand you correctly I can reload 5.56 brass to .233 powder specs and shoot them out of my Target Model Mini 14 that specifically states that I shoot only use .233 ammo.

 

[Rule3]

So if I understand you correctly I can reload 5.56 brass to .233 powder specs and shoot them out of my Target Model Mini 14 that specifically states that I shoot only use .233 ammo.

Yes. There are no 5.56 reloading dies, The rifles chambered in 223 can withstand 223 pressure, those chambered in 5.56 can shoot either.

Look in the manuals, there are 223 loads and SERVICE rifle loads, You want the 223 loads for a barrel stamped 223.

It's all in the pressure of the ammo.

My Mini 14 can shoot either as it is stamped 5.56.

 

[andyo5]

So if I understand you correctly I can reload 5.56 brass to .233 powder specs and shoot them out of my Target Model Mini 14 that specifically states that I shoot only use .233 ammo.

Yes. I have a 5.56 and I load to that specification.
My brass is ALL range brass. Some is ex-military 5.56, some is .223. They all get the same reloads and they all function just fine.
The only caveat would involve folks seeing reloads in .223 marked cases that are actually loaded to 5.56 spec. So you must be careful when shooting reloads that you personally did not load. I would not give any of my reloads to someone else unless I knew for sure what rifle he would be shooting them in.
Frankly, I made sure that I owned a 5.56 so I wouldn't have to worry about it.

 

[lipripper]

So if I understand you correctly I can reload 5.56 brass to .233 powder specs and shoot them out of my Target Model Mini 14 that specifically states that I shoot only use .233 ammo.

IF you do end up loading 5.56 brass for the Target Mini14(223 only) I might suggest a mark of some sort(sharpie over primer works for me) to insure you are in fact shooting a reloaded 5.56 case within 223 specs rather than a factory 5.56. Whatever works for you. Only reason I do this is I ended up trimming a bunch of 357 brass for the 140FTX or whatever load needed trimmed brass, than ended up with a bunch of mixed up 357 brass.

Point is just try to not get any factory 5.56 rounds mixed up with your "loaded down" 5.56 rounds.
Safe shooting

 

[Bigdog357]

Yes. I have a 5.56 and I load to that specification.
My brass is ALL range brass. Some is ex-military 5.56, some is .223. They all get the same reloads and they all function just fine.
The only caveat would involve folks seeing reloads in .223 marked cases that are actually loaded to 5.56 spec. So you must be careful when shooting reloads that you personally did not load. I would not give any of my reloads to someone else unless I knew for sure what rifle he would be shooting them in.
Frankly, I made sure that I owned a 5.56 so I wouldn't have to worry about it.

Thanks for the responses, first off I would only shoot my own reloads. Unfortunately the target model of mini 14 only comes in the 233 configuration and since I was looking for the most accurate mini 14 so its the one I bought. I thought maybe there was a difference in the brass case between the 5.56 and the 233.