231 in a 625

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BillD

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How fast, safely, can I push a 260 gr cast Keith type bullet in a 4" 625 with WW231?

I'm not trying to turn it into a .44 mag but I would like a good heavy load for hog hunting, engine block destruction, dinasour killing.

I don't want to destroy my gun/body parts either.

Can, or should, I get the 260 gr bullet to 900fps with 231?

Thanks for your input
 
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How fast, safely, can I push a 260 gr cast Keith type bullet in a 4" 625 with WW231?

I'm not trying to turn it into a .44 mag but I would like a good heavy load for hog hunting, engine block destruction, dinasour killing.

I don't want to destroy my gun/body parts either.

Can, or should, I get the 260 gr bullet to 900fps with 231?

Thanks for your input
 
Hi Bill The largest bullet Lyman and the Hodgdon web site list is a 230 gr but an old Hodgdon manual list 260 with 5.0 gr of W231 for 788 f/s at 16,600 CUP

Bob
 
I think 231 would prove to be too fast for that application. I would use Unique, since there's already some proven loads for that bullet weight and velocity range.
 
I was trying to simplify things and run with one powder but if I should change, I will.
I won't be shooting a lot of these.
So, Unique?

Can you give me a starting load? I do have a chrono.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
 
The max published load of 12.0 AA9 will get you what you want. You can keep adding tenth-grain increments until you're over 1000fps, but that's a personal decision involving some risk, of course. It's also about the best around for 10mm, and hard to beat in 357 (or 44mag, for that matter), so it's good stuff to have on the bench.
 
BillD,

First, get some Starline .45 AR brass. It's excellent quality and even more importantly, it cannot be loaded into a 1911 or other autopistol. A 260 at 900 should just about render the barrel lugs pretty well peened to hell in short order.

I would start at 6.0 grains and work it up in 0.2 grain increments to around 6.8 grains. Watch your chronograph and pressure signs carefully and you should get there easily and most likely well before you get to 6.8 grains. If you have a copy of Handloader 254, take a look at the really great article that Brian Pearce did on the .45 AR and you'll have plenty of published reference material.

That type and style of load will easily kill anything on two or four legs on this continent with penetration and power to spare.
 
Bill,
I'm with pinky and others on this one. If you want "sooped up" loads for that heavy of a bullet you need to go to a slower powder. That will keep pressure down and still get the desired velocity. A win/win in my book.

I have a 240gr LSWC designed by EK for the 45AR that I shoot over a healthy dose of 2400.

I need to be clear, when I say slower powder I am talking in that realm, say HS-6 to AA#9or even 2400, but no slower.

Paul5388 has several loads for this bullet that he shoots in his M625.
Check out this thread:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5701039...131007223#4131007223
 
You will need to exercise consideralbe caution in pushing heavy bullets using WW231 or Bullseye to max velocities in your 625.

Take a good look at the cylinder stop notches. They are no more than 0.025"-0.030" thick at the bottom of the notches. In some older guns, it's even thinner. That is the weak point of the S&W cylinder design.
 
Originally posted by Wayne Dobbs:
BillD,

First, get some Starline .45 AR brass. It's excellent quality and even more importantly, it cannot be loaded into a 1911 or other autopistol. A 260 at 900 should just about render the barrel lugs pretty well peened to hell in short order.

I would start at 6.0 grains and work it up in 0.2 grain increments to around 6.8 grains. Watch your chronograph and pressure signs carefully and you should get there easily and most likely well before you get to 6.8 grains. If you have a copy of Handloader 254, take a look at the really great article that Brian Pearce did on the .45 AR and you'll have plenty of published reference material.

That type and style of load will easily kill anything on two or four legs on this continent with penetration and power to spare.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm looking for!!

I will buy some Unique and try this. Now, where would I find this Handloader 254? I'll buy a copy if I can find one.

AR brass? Doesn't this have to be punched out of the cylinder individually? Couldn't I use say 45 Super brass (since I'm going to buy new brass for this anyway) and still be able to use moon clips? With the size and shape of this bullet, I believe I would be pretty safe in not getting this into one of my 1911's. I'm pretty good about keeping loads segregated. Or is there another reason to use AR brass that I'm not aware of?

I REALLY appreciate all your guys help. Thanks again.
 
I recall being able to get 900 FPS with a 255 gr. SWC and 231 out of my 4" 625. I used a few tenths more than 5 grs. and did not have any trouble. It can be done if 231 is the only powder you have but you need to proceed carefully. I am going to revisit my old loading data and see what I can do with my newer 3" 625. The 3" gun is very accurate with the Lee 255 gr. RF but I do not have aspirations of reaching 900 FPS with any powder in the shorter barrel.

Dave Sinko
 
45 Auto Rim Brass is just that.. Its a 45ACP case with a Rim just like normal revolver rounds, 357/44/45LC. The rim lets the star eject the cases and you don't need the Moon clips. You use the same dies but, you will need a different shell holder.
 
Originally posted by BillD:
...AR brass? Doesn't this have to be punched out of the cylinder individually? Couldn't I use say 45 Super brass (since I'm going to buy new brass for this anyway) and still be able to use moon clips? With the size and shape of this bullet, I believe I would be pretty safe in not getting this into one of my 1911's. I'm pretty good about keeping loads segregated. Or is there another reason to use AR brass that I'm not aware of?

I REALLY appreciate all your guys help. Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Hi, Bill -

The AR brass is nothing more than a 45 ACP case that has a rim. It'll eject just like a .38 or .44. The presence of the rim will preclude loading it by mistake into a 1911. I like AR brass a lot for plinking, but it's certainly not as fast for reloads as moon clips.

HTH,

Edited to add: Iowahunter beat me to it!
 
OK guys, the auto rim it is.
So, I've got to order powder, bullets and brass, cmon tax check.

I've got the handloader mag for the AR reloading section on the way. I'm sure it will be full of good info.

Thanks again everyone.

I'm all ears if anyone has more info on this loading.

So what I have now is Unique starting at 6.0 with a 260 gr cast Keith bullet. Easing up .1 at a time until I get to 900fps.

This would probably be too much for pins. I'll just load some hotter 200 gr LSWC's for those.
But it oughta punch through a hog!!
 
6.0 W231 with that bullet may a little warm. One reloader used 6.0 W231 with a 255gr and the primers flattened out. Totally.

May I suggest starting at 5.5 and working up? Check your primers and brass for over pressure. It is dangerous to start at the top and work down.

Good luck.
 
Someone offered a speedloader for the .45 Auto Rim case a short time ago. If you foresee the need to load in a hurry, it might be worth checkin out.

Rich
 
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