Inkedpreacher
Member
I'm pretty new at scopes, never been a fan of them, but my new rifle leaves me no option. Any thoughts on this article? I am totally clueless to wether it's accurate. The 26-yard rifle zero | The Daily Caller
26 yard zero?
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It will vary some with velocity and the bullets bc,but it's a good place to start and then test at various ranges.
Sounds good in theory, but note this key disclaimer: "Of course, this is an on-paper estimate, and until you actually shoot your rifle at those distances, you can't be sure,..."
Heed those words for your rifle and load.
Heed those words for your rifle and load.
I've also heard from military members that they zero their M-16s at 25-27 yards and they are good for center of mass out to 400 meters. I learned over on rimfirecentral.com that sighting in a .22 with high velocity(1250fps+-) at 19 yards will keep you plus or minus 1/2" out to 66 yards. same concept I guess. works on squirrels. lee
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Inkedpreacher
Member
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to test this tomorrow. Never been good with a scope. I guess it's time to learn. I'm not getting any younger. 
. Judging distance while using a scope has always been my downfall. I'm just not good at it. I've passed on shots simply because I wasn't sure of distance, and I didn't want to wound an animal. Here in Iowa, we can only use a rifle for coyotes, but even they don't deserve to suffer from a bad shot by an inexperienced scope user.
. Judging distance while using a scope has always been my downfall. I'm just not good at it. I've passed on shots simply because I wasn't sure of distance, and I didn't want to wound an animal. Here in Iowa, we can only use a rifle for coyotes, but even they don't deserve to suffer from a bad shot by an inexperienced scope user.
vonn
US Veteran
On the ground target practice is the only way to become proficient with any weapon,makes you a better shooter and it is a lot of fun!
Stainless44
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The title is factual but a bit misleading. He discusses the merits of MBPR...maximum point blank range. For the past 15 years or so I've used MBPR on my 7 mag by sighting in 3 inches high at 100 yards. This allows me to hold dead center on the vitals for any deer out to 300 yards and put one in the kill zone...it works very well. Once you've verified in practice that you can do this, it makes life much easier as you don't have to fool with holdover out to your MBPR.
His article talks about a 26 yard zero, but in reality how many people have access to a 26 yard range for sighting in a rifle? I think he chose the title to get the readers attention because it stands out more than "2.8 inches high at 100 yards".
If I showed up on my clubs 25 yard pistol range with a 7 mag rifle I think they'd pull my membership...rifles aren't allowed on that range. I can however, find the right zero at 100 yards for my MBPR...and that's what I do.
His article talks about a 26 yard zero, but in reality how many people have access to a 26 yard range for sighting in a rifle? I think he chose the title to get the readers attention because it stands out more than "2.8 inches high at 100 yards".
If I showed up on my clubs 25 yard pistol range with a 7 mag rifle I think they'd pull my membership...rifles aren't allowed on that range. I can however, find the right zero at 100 yards for my MBPR...and that's what I do.
model70hunter
Member
Jack O'Conner used 25 yards as this kept his rifles in the animal to 275 yards or so. Keep in mind the older scopes with smaller objectives sit closer to the bore. When one puts the scope on use the shortest mounts that will let the scope clear the barrel.
My Dad also used O'Connors 25 yard zero.
I've found that with bigger objective scopes it changes the triangulation of scope center to bore and instead of the about 2" high mark O'Connor got at 100 yards I see up to 4" high with my magnums.
27 yards is now recommended. After I have it hitting dead center at 27 I shoot it at 100 and if it's 4" high I drop it to 2" high. This should make a 308 or 30-06 using 150-165 grain bullets hit plus or minus 2 inches to 250 yards. A 270, 7 mag or any of the 300 mags will be good to 275 or better.
Let the barrel cool off, most newer rifles with thinner barrels need to cool off after 3 rounds and 3 round groups is best for a hunting rifle.
When you are very close let the rifle cool down. For hunting you want your first shot to hit the hair you pick out with a cold barrel. If you shoot until the barrel is hot to get your 100 yard zero it probably won't be on zero when it's cool. Voice of experience from my youth.
My Dad also used O'Connors 25 yard zero.
I've found that with bigger objective scopes it changes the triangulation of scope center to bore and instead of the about 2" high mark O'Connor got at 100 yards I see up to 4" high with my magnums.
27 yards is now recommended. After I have it hitting dead center at 27 I shoot it at 100 and if it's 4" high I drop it to 2" high. This should make a 308 or 30-06 using 150-165 grain bullets hit plus or minus 2 inches to 250 yards. A 270, 7 mag or any of the 300 mags will be good to 275 or better.
Let the barrel cool off, most newer rifles with thinner barrels need to cool off after 3 rounds and 3 round groups is best for a hunting rifle.
When you are very close let the rifle cool down. For hunting you want your first shot to hit the hair you pick out with a cold barrel. If you shoot until the barrel is hot to get your 100 yard zero it probably won't be on zero when it's cool. Voice of experience from my youth.
model70hunter
Member
P.S. What model Rifle and scope? Caliber?
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Inkedpreacher
Member
Savage trophy hunter .270 with a Nikon 3x9x40 scope.
oldRoger
US Veteran
M-1s were zeroed at 1000 inches. That 83 foot (27.7yard) distance, with 150 grain ball gave you an "on the paper" zero at 100 yards.
The correct "near" zero depends upon bullet weight, velocity, and sight height.
It is actually a fairly simple concept that requires a drawing to visualize. I have tried to describe it with the written word but I end up confusing myself much less the reader.
The correct "near" zero depends upon bullet weight, velocity, and sight height.
It is actually a fairly simple concept that requires a drawing to visualize. I have tried to describe it with the written word but I end up confusing myself much less the reader.
Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Actually, there's a tangible benefit to have the scope as high as possible. It increases the MPBR, while costing nothing in terms of velocity or bullet weight. One of life's only "free lunches". That's one of the reasons modern military rifles all have Eiffel Tower like sights. They want those sights as high as they can get them.
I found this interesting:AR-15 Trajectory Graphs - AR15.Com Archive
"Actually, there's a tangible benefit to have the scope as high as possible. It increases the MPBR,"
Alright for close in shooting but from a hunting aspect in forest applications makes it hard to miss branches. The closer the line of sight is to bore axis the easier to make a successful shot.
e.
Alright for close in shooting but from a hunting aspect in forest applications makes it hard to miss branches. The closer the line of sight is to bore axis the easier to make a successful shot.
e.
And getting a decent cheek weld.
GatorFarmer
Member
Wouldn't a relatively inexpensive laser range finder help with range estimation?
A friend of mine was a Marine armorer. He used to work on the rifle range at Parris Island. He helped me zero my M4 clones at 25 meters.
A friend of mine was a Marine armorer. He used to work on the rifle range at Parris Island. He helped me zero my M4 clones at 25 meters.
Mounting a scope as low as possible is normally the best location, but more important is the proper alignment of your eye through the center of the scope with your normal cheek weld. In other words where your rifle automatically fits when your head is on the stock. If you have to force your head to an unnatural position to see clearly through the scope you will never attain good accuracy with that rifle. If you need higher rings to locate a scope with a large front glass, yo need to build up the stock to where your cheek will correctly fit.
This system will work with 95% of the rifles and loads.......
and if you have a vise or rest that will hold the rifle steady......
you can adjust your cross hairs to the single bullet on the target
and be sighted in with just one shot !!
Tally hoe............
and if you have a vise or rest that will hold the rifle steady......
you can adjust your cross hairs to the single bullet on the target
and be sighted in with just one shot !!
Tally hoe............
Aticus
Member
Golly gee, Buffalo Bob, that article sounds an awful lot like sight in 3" high at 100 yds. and hold dead on to 300. I think the writer came with a more exact method of doing what hunters have been doing since the dawn of telescopic sights. 
Edit to add the thought: the difference between 2.81" and 3" with a 270 is mighty close to the diameter of the bullet. Interesting, eh what?
Edit to add the thought: the difference between 2.81" and 3" with a 270 is mighty close to the diameter of the bullet. Interesting, eh what?
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M E Morrison
Member
Guess I'm lucky, I can shoot pistols or rifles at the 25 yard outdoor range....
The indoor range, however, is different. 
M E Morrison
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ChattanoogaPhil
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No need for guessology.
Measure sight over bore for your rifle and enter the data accordingly. Make sure to click "Advanced Options".
Ballistic Calculator GunData.org
Measure sight over bore for your rifle and enter the data accordingly. Make sure to click "Advanced Options".
Ballistic Calculator GunData.org
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Inkedpreacher
Member
I appreciate all the replies.I woke up sick today, so I skipped the range. But I will be trying this out soon.
cowart
US Veteran
Back in '72 at Fort Polk we zeroed our M-16s at 25 yards. I was a novice 17 year old shooter and could hit the 400 meter silhouettes. Sure surprised me.
model70hunter
Member
All three are nice choices.
Look at the chart Cowart added. Pretty nice.
A positive difference for you might be using 110 grain bullets for coyotes. Faster bullet, shoots flatter with less recoil.
Double Tap sells 110 grain new loads. Muzzle Velocity: 3465 fps ** pricey.
Federal's 110 grain load is cheaper and does 3400 FPS.
One needs to learn to reload. Cheaper in the long run if you shoot much.
One of my Dad's friends was a highway patrol man that reloaded for Dad who always had 270 110 grain reloads around. I can tell you from experience they were almost like a lazer and coyotes went down as soon as the bullet hit. The bullet did not leave a large exit wound, it seemed to explode in side.
I had one friend who swore by the 270 Win and 110 grain hand loads for deer. Jellied the lungs.
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I've used my ballistic software...
I've charted the load for my 30-06 and I know it works at the nearer ranges but I don't shoot past 100 yards. Having the highest ballistic coefficient you can get helps, but don't expect it to work with a flat tip 30-30 bullet. I like getting the theory and going out and trying to prove it in the field
I've charted the load for my 30-06 and I know it works at the nearer ranges but I don't shoot past 100 yards. Having the highest ballistic coefficient you can get helps, but don't expect it to work with a flat tip 30-30 bullet. I like getting the theory and going out and trying to prove it in the field
My Speer #9
My Speer #9 had similar data along with the velocity, energy, etc. Some loads dropped like 24" at 200 yards.
My Speer #9 had similar data along with the velocity, energy, etc. Some loads dropped like 24" at 200 yards.
And you can cook up......
Reloading REALLY saves on rifle bullets but another big attraction is that you can cook up loads at any velocity with any bullet rather than being limited to what you can buy.
Reloading REALLY saves on rifle bullets but another big attraction is that you can cook up loads at any velocity with any bullet rather than being limited to what you can buy.
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