Barbarian-CBX
Member
Hi All, These grips are off of a nickel 32 HE 1st Model I've been cleaning. Can anyone provide any info? I assume they are aftermarket and plastic. Thanks
32 HE 1st Model Grips Questions
- Thread starter Barbarian-CBX
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They're aftermarket but not plastic. Looks like real mother-of-pearl. Are they rather heavy for their size? MOP.
A pretty common aftermarket addition, particularly with nickel guns, at the turn of the last century.
A pretty common aftermarket addition, particularly with nickel guns, at the turn of the last century.
OP
Barbarian-CBX
Member
Yes, they are heavy. I thought they were plastic because of the difference in color near the front of each grip. Can they be polished to remove this?
opoefc
US Veteran
My guess is the difference in coloring is due to staining from some unknown source. Whether applying some cleaning material or polishing might work, I don't know. It's not impossible that they could be factory installed, depending on when your gun was shipped. Only a factory letter will tell you. Ed.
My notes, maybe originally from Ed, say that to protect their reputation for quality, the company started placing gold-plated Smith & Wesson trademark medallions on all factory pearl grips in 1898. Obviously this model started production in 1896, so there were a few years without medallions in the pearl grips. I am curious if you can take a picture of them laying flat that will show the thickness of the pair? Factory pearls were substantially thicker than post-factory replacements.
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It could be oil staining. Likely soaked in too deep to polish out but can't hurt to try. Buffing wheel with white rouge, but don't allow the surface to get too hot from buffing. Or hand polish with Mothers Mag Wheel polish (or similar).
OP
Barbarian-CBX
Member
Thanks all. The grips are 0.25" thick at bottom. I wanted to clean it well. Took side plate off and removed all parts under side plate. I'm going to post in the gunsmithing subforum to see if there are any tricks to getting the trigger, trigger lever, hand, and rebound lever installed. Looks like a lot has to go back together as an assembly.
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I wouldn't worry about the staining on the back side. After all you never see it when it's on the gun. Most of my mother of pearl grips have similar staining and if it doesn't wipe off I just ignore it
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Please don't soak pearls in anything. Every original set of pearls I own have rust on the inside. If it bothers you, take a small rag with CLR and wipe the rust spot until it disappears. When done, wipe with wet clean rag.
I would say they are too thin to be original. By my observation, factory pearls are as thick as hard rubber stocks. I measure about .35" at the thickest spot on one set of I frame pearls I own and a second set I believe to be post-factory .28". It is an inexact science, but thickness that matches hard rubber stocks in any frame size indicate they would likely be original. Perfect fit also lends to authenticity. Lastly, imperfections, imperfect rounding or shape, and or hollows in backside would indicate distributor post-factory pearls. Check yours with a micrometer if you have one at the thickest spot and inspect them carefully. Also, let us know the serial number and we might be able to tell you appropriate ship date.
I would say they are too thin to be original. By my observation, factory pearls are as thick as hard rubber stocks. I measure about .35" at the thickest spot on one set of I frame pearls I own and a second set I believe to be post-factory .28". It is an inexact science, but thickness that matches hard rubber stocks in any frame size indicate they would likely be original. Perfect fit also lends to authenticity. Lastly, imperfections, imperfect rounding or shape, and or hollows in backside would indicate distributor post-factory pearls. Check yours with a micrometer if you have one at the thickest spot and inspect them carefully. Also, let us know the serial number and we might be able to tell you appropriate ship date.
My rusted factory pearls cleaned up beautifully with Evaporust.
It is a non-toxic and water-based product.
You may want to experiment with it some....it is very useful.
Note that it strips bluing...which, after all, is fancy rust.
It is a non-toxic and water-based product.
You may want to experiment with it some....it is very useful.
Note that it strips bluing...which, after all, is fancy rust.
That is probably true, but I am abundantly careful when it comes to any type of stocks. With CLR, just wipe and on and rinse off.
StrawHat
Member
I would like to find a set of pearl stocks to go on my 32 HE. Every time I find a set the owner thinks they are the only set available and $$$$.
Kevin
Kevin
OP
Barbarian-CBX
Member
OP
Barbarian-CBX
Member
I'm cleaning it. And like Hondo said a while back a few years ago about mag wheel polish, it's starting to take shape. Pics soon.
Upon closer inspection, looks like a major chip off one of the grips. Slight buffing only made the grips glossy. The yellow stain looks deep into the body of the grips.
Upon closer inspection, looks like a major chip off one of the grips. Slight buffing only made the grips glossy. The yellow stain looks deep into the body of the grips.
