357 MAXIMUM Shotshells
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Ivan the Butcher
Member
I have 47 pieces of 357 brass waiting now for 6 years for a similar project.
I have very successfully made full length (same as cartridge overall length-COAL) 45 Colt shot shells from 460 S&W brass. (1) In that project the brass is cut off or trimmed to COAL of 1.51", since I used virgin brass a full length sizing was needed. (2) Next a 44-40 sizing die was used to "Tapper" the top 3 or 4 tenths inch of the brass, this is the Bullet area and is smaller than the case O.D. (3) I primed with a Winchester Large Pistol primer. (4) For a powder charge I chose a light load for a 220 grain lead bullet (5.7grains WW231). (5) You need a over the powder card to prevent the shot mixing with the powder charge! I used a .060 thick cork card-common for BP cartridge loading. (6) I scooped a 1/2 ounce of #7.5 shot with a Lee dipper and (7) place a second card over the shot (this was about 1/10" below case mouth) Some people have tried using a gas check and crimping in place. It has never been successful for me! (that check can tip and release the shot, or worse can get stuck in the throat: VERY DANGERIOUS) (8) I sealed the cases with a tube of Gutter Seam Sealer purchased at Lowe's roofing department. I wiped level with case mouth with a popsicle stick and made sure not to get any on the outside case walls. Let dry/cure for 2-3 weeks. The results: from a 5.5" revolver, I got a dense and even 12" pattern at 10' distance and about 750 feet per second. A friend used one of these shells on a West Virginia, Copper Head snake, the shake was shredded at 8 feet. These are totally reloadable.
I had planned to use the 357 Max brass to make 357 MAG full length shot shells. The two things that stopped me were, (1) to tapper the case mouth, I have yet to find a suitable die, and (2) when all is said and done, you will only have 1/4 ounce or less of shot.
If you have a 357 Max revolver, and want to make full brass length shot shells, (1) figure how much shot you will use, fill empty case with shot leave 1/2" at top empty- weigh the shot(2) pick a 357 mag load for that weight of bullet going 700-800 fps. (3) for wads, there are 36 cal. felt wads (get un-lubed wads) about 1/10" thick. Depending on powder charge, you may need to adjust shot charge.
If any of this works out for you PM me with results, or questions. Ivan
I have very successfully made full length (same as cartridge overall length-COAL) 45 Colt shot shells from 460 S&W brass. (1) In that project the brass is cut off or trimmed to COAL of 1.51", since I used virgin brass a full length sizing was needed. (2) Next a 44-40 sizing die was used to "Tapper" the top 3 or 4 tenths inch of the brass, this is the Bullet area and is smaller than the case O.D. (3) I primed with a Winchester Large Pistol primer. (4) For a powder charge I chose a light load for a 220 grain lead bullet (5.7grains WW231). (5) You need a over the powder card to prevent the shot mixing with the powder charge! I used a .060 thick cork card-common for BP cartridge loading. (6) I scooped a 1/2 ounce of #7.5 shot with a Lee dipper and (7) place a second card over the shot (this was about 1/10" below case mouth) Some people have tried using a gas check and crimping in place. It has never been successful for me! (that check can tip and release the shot, or worse can get stuck in the throat: VERY DANGERIOUS) (8) I sealed the cases with a tube of Gutter Seam Sealer purchased at Lowe's roofing department. I wiped level with case mouth with a popsicle stick and made sure not to get any on the outside case walls. Let dry/cure for 2-3 weeks. The results: from a 5.5" revolver, I got a dense and even 12" pattern at 10' distance and about 750 feet per second. A friend used one of these shells on a West Virginia, Copper Head snake, the shake was shredded at 8 feet. These are totally reloadable.
I had planned to use the 357 Max brass to make 357 MAG full length shot shells. The two things that stopped me were, (1) to tapper the case mouth, I have yet to find a suitable die, and (2) when all is said and done, you will only have 1/4 ounce or less of shot.
If you have a 357 Max revolver, and want to make full brass length shot shells, (1) figure how much shot you will use, fill empty case with shot leave 1/2" at top empty- weigh the shot(2) pick a 357 mag load for that weight of bullet going 700-800 fps. (3) for wads, there are 36 cal. felt wads (get un-lubed wads) about 1/10" thick. Depending on powder charge, you may need to adjust shot charge.
If any of this works out for you PM me with results, or questions. Ivan
Thanks Ivan!
I wasn't sure I would get any replyand I thank you for your's. I do remember reading an online discussion which suggested the use of a 222 Remington sizing die to taper the 357MAX case mouth. I have the brass on order from Midway and won the 222 die set on ebay, so I'll be looking to begin shortly. I will strive for 700fps load after determining case capacity etc. I will try to find that discussion and post a link to it. Thanks again,
Arthur
I wasn't sure I would get any replyand I thank you for your's. I do remember reading an online discussion which suggested the use of a 222 Remington sizing die to taper the 357MAX case mouth. I have the brass on order from Midway and won the 222 die set on ebay, so I'll be looking to begin shortly. I will strive for 700fps load after determining case capacity etc. I will try to find that discussion and post a link to it. Thanks again,
Arthur
Ivan the Butcher
Member
I was thinking about it some. I think a 32-40 or (less likely) 30-30 sizing die might give a adequate taper to the bullet area on 357 mag COAL cases. The problem will be, putting in the taper without folding the unsupported lower body.
Using the shoulder of a 222/221/223 die will be awfully steep.
If you could find any of the old Thompson-Center 357 shot capsules, they would use 357 mag brass but should fit a Max chamber.
Ivan
Using the shoulder of a 222/221/223 die will be awfully steep.
If you could find any of the old Thompson-Center 357 shot capsules, they would use 357 mag brass but should fit a Max chamber.
Ivan
Ivan, you missunderstood me. I don't have a 357MAX revolver. I want to use 357MAX brass for a 357 MAG cylinder length shotshell. The 222 sizer will put a gentile taper on the MAX brass which will allow it to enter the cylinder throats. I'll look for a link to that shortly.
EDIT: Ivan, here is the link to the article that got me interested in this project. Experimental reloading is fun and interesting and I want to pursue this round/cartridge. Please review this forum posting and give me your opinion at your convenience. And, thanks again for your thoughtful input,
Arthur
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Years ago I loaded some 41 Mag shotshells for a friend who had a terrible cottonmouth problem. He lived on a brackish backwater lake, and the snakes were about to carry him off.
I sharpened a .41 case with a de-burring tool and drilled out the flash hole. I then took empty cartridge cases and cut the fiber wads from them. When the case was full I used a piece of wire to push the wads from the modified case.
I tried gas checks but they didn't work. When I tried to crimp the end of the case the check would "kink" and try to fall out.
I never found the need to use a sealer. Once I determined the fiber over-shot wads worked, crimping without a problem became the norm.
I sharpened a .41 case with a de-burring tool and drilled out the flash hole. I then took empty cartridge cases and cut the fiber wads from them. When the case was full I used a piece of wire to push the wads from the modified case.
I tried gas checks but they didn't work. When I tried to crimp the end of the case the check would "kink" and try to fall out.
I never found the need to use a sealer. Once I determined the fiber over-shot wads worked, crimping without a problem became the norm.
Highest loads aren't best......
There is a point where velocity and pattern are optimum. If you do higher loads, the pattern deteriorates.
There is a point where velocity and pattern are optimum. If you do higher loads, the pattern deteriorates.
